Taylor Test Kit for Dummy's

[Brookenstein]

Anyone care to give me the cliff note version of how to use my new kit?  

 

[jfish63]

I haven't had mine long so I just go by the instructions on the inside of the lid. I do not check for everything every time. Most of the time i just do the free chlorine test.

 

[WHY_NOT]

Anyone care to give me the cliff note version of how to use my new kit?  

Did you get the K-2005? If so that's what I use. I go word for word by the instructions under the lid. Is there a specific test you need some help with?

 

[Brookenstein]

Yeah, thats the one I got.  I haven't even looked at it yet.  I just remember people saying it came with like a 40 page book and that scared/intimidated me.  So I was being lazy and trying to find a way to cheat.  Didn't realize their were instructions on the lid, lol.

 

[tony]

The 40 page book is great reading, but instructions are under the lid.  Not to worry.

 

[Brookenstein]

Ok... I just tested my nasty water (which will be drained and refilled in the morning, if I don't go to Disneyland).

FC .5
TC 1.5
CC 1

What exactly does that mean?

My PH and ALK are very low according to this.  A few days ago they were fine according to test strips.  My PH was less than 7 and Alk, if I did right was only 20.  Am I understanding the ALK correctly, that the number of drops to turn it from green to red x 10 is the ALK.  So if it took 2 drops, then my ALK was only 20?

 

[Vinny]

Your total chlorine is 1.5 PPM, with free chlorine (chlorine that actually does something) at 1.0 PPM and combined chlorine (the chlorine that was used up) at 0.5 PPM ...  1.0+0.5=1.5 - the math adds up.

If you kept the water then it needs a shock of either 5 or more FC ( 10 x the CC reading) or MPS. One thing though is that if you recently shocked with MPS, the TC and CC numbers will be wrong.

If you followed the instructions on the lid and it did that - yes you have about 20 PPM of alkalinity. and if you used 5 drops of PH solution in the 44 ml vial (there is a line at the 44 ml mark) then whatever you read was correct.

The book is something that goes in depth for us want to know everything geeks. No actual instructions on how to use the tester but explains everything about balanced water and water care in general ... wait until you use the watergram!!!

Once you get the hang of it you'll see how much more accurate the kit is ... and maybe just maybe we'll let you into our geek club. ;D

 

[Gomboman]

Brooke, your water was always perfect using test strips in the past. Have you verified your readings with your test strips to see if there is a difference in values? What is your PH and Alk with the strips?

Good luck. I actually enjoyed reading the manual. Give it a chance when you have a few spare minutes.

 

[glastron]

wifey bought the K-1005 since i use bromine are my only concerns are bromine of course PH and alkanility and hardness test?

 

[Brookenstein]

Your total chlorine is 1.5 PPM, with free chlorine (chlorine that actually does something) at 1.0 PPM and combined chlorine (the chlorine that was used up) at 0.5 PPM ...  1.0+0.5=1.5 - the math adds up.

Ok, I'm confused... are you saying what I put is incorrect...

FC .5
TC 1.5
CC 1

I swear I followed the instructions... step 3 is FC, step 5 was TC, then CC=TC-FC

Anyway, I'm gonna try and dump in the am before I go to Disneyland.

 

[WHY_NOT]

TC-FC=CC. You did it correct. When I first got my k-2005, I too was amazed at how much different the results were than when using test strips. Inparticular, The Calcium Hardness Test. There was almost a 150 ppm difference.
The key to the alkalinity test is to make sure you thouroughly mix the drops in the tube before advancing to the next step. Also make sure you give it a good swirling after EACH drop of the R-0009(the regiment that changes the sample from green to red). It took me awhile to get comfortable with this test but now it's a snap.

Your CC is the reading that tells you when it's time for a shock. I try to catch mine before it gets past .5. That's usually about a week-week1/2. Like Vinny said if you keep this fill any longer it will need to be shocked with a dose of dichlor that will give you a FC of 10ppm 20 min. after dosing or just use mps as suggested.

 

[Reese]

Ok, I'm confused... are you saying what I put is incorrect...I swear I followed the instructions... step 3 is FC, step 5 was TC, then CC=TC-FC  Anyway, I'm gonna try and dump in the am before I go to Disneyland.

You had it correct.  I think Vinny just grabbed the wrong numbers in his example.  Your high CC is a byproduct of all the nasties you had to kill when you returned.  As Vinny and Why Not said, if you were going to keep the water, you'd want to do a heavy shock to get rid of it.

The next time you encounter a skanky tub, hit with about twice as much dichlor as you think it needs.  If you don't use enough to overwhelm the infection, it regrows rapidly, and you end up adding dose, after dose, after dose -- trying to get ahead of it.  Not only does it take longer to get things back in line, it builds CC.

The first couple of times I used the Taylor kit, I thought I had wasted $50, because it seemed too complicated to use on a regular basis.  Once you get used to it, it is easy -- you'll be able to do the chlorine and pH tests that you use the most in your sleep.

Before you test, rinse the comparator tube in the tub, not the tap, so that there is no outside contamination.  As far as your pH and TA, just make sure you are using the correct volume for each test, as described on the lid, and holding the reagent bottle upside down (not sideways) so you get uniform drop size.  On the TA test, be sure to swirl the solution after each step.  Also note that there is a standard procedure, and one for anticipated high results.  I have found myself on the wrong instructions from time to time.

 

[tony]

You will be amazed at how different the readings are between your Taylor kit and your test strips.

 

[Brookenstein]

The tub is now filled with fresh water.  I'll check the readings in a bit.

 

[Vinny]

Sorry Brooke!

I did have the numbers screwed up. As people said, it does get easier although I never used test strips I had my neighbor show me his readings on their pool ... I couldn't make heads or tails out of it.

This is why
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[Brookenstein]

About 15min after adding 1 TBS of dichlor, I was at >5ppm FC.  I'm kind of surprised that the test kit only tests up to 5ppm.  Isnt it just guess work after that or is that when you do the 'offscale' directions?  Do I bother to test for TC when I'm above 5?

My PH was 7.4 and ALK was 160.  I will test again in the morning and then compare with test strips.

 

[Vinny]

You need to do the "off scale directions". If you take non chlorinated water and the tub water and make a 50/50 mix, take a reading then multiply by 2 ... that's your reading. If the 50/50 mix is still too high you can do a 2/3 non chlorinated water and 1/3 chlorinated water, take a reading and multiply by 3 ...

 

[WHY_NOT]

 Do I bother to test for TC when I'm above 5?

I do what Vinny taught me and that's to only check it when you know FC will be 0. I too was struggling trying to find any change when some FC was present and thanks to his advice I no longer have that problem.