About to get used tub, confused about baqua....

[kenoflife]

thanks, I read it through a couple of times....

think I'll wait on the ozonator and just see how the hot tub is working w/ dichlor..

now to figure out the 'vermonter method' - the guy before me just added a teaspoon of chlorine
after each evening soak....he said it was at "zero" when he would test it before getting in again.
I think he also did something with the calcium level....

Not sure about doing the chlorine shock....the N2?.....and the alternative to dichlor (MPS or something
or other - 4 letters) thats used
for the accentuated dose...guess there's more research to do....seems like there's insider references here
and there to products I don't understand...

Like to keep it simple, and yet - safe!
Mostly its just myself and 2 small boys (7 and 9), and maybe a girlfriend to come....
And we don't have much b.o. or use skin things..

[Chas]

You need something to test your levels with. I like Test Strips the best, others have preferences which shall come up soon I'm sure.

You need to test pH, TA and Chlorine levels.

The pH and TA usually go up and down together, and are treated together. The pH level is a scale from acid to base, and if you keep your spa water at 7.4 it will be easier on your eyes, your skin, and it will allow the chlorine to do it's job most effectively. Too high and you get calcium buildup, too low and you bad things happen to pumps, heaters and skin.

I put in a tablespoon of Dichlor as I get out of the spa, each time I use it. That way if I skip a day or two I really don't need Dichlor anyway, and the level does drop to zero by time I go to use it next time. If I go a week without use, I go out and hit it with two or three tablespoons of Dichlor for good measure.

BTW "Dichlor" is a shortened version of the name for Sodium Sodium Dichloro-s-triazinetrione Dihydrate. I hope I got that right - too tired to Google it. That is a type of Chlorine, not a brand. It is the ONLY type of chlorine you want to use in a hot tub.

 8-)

[Reese]

now to figure out the 'vermonter method' - the guy before me just added a teaspoon of chlorine after each evening soak....he said it was at "zero" when he would test it before getting in again.  I think he also did something with the calcium level....Not sure about doing the chlorine shock....the N2?.....and the alternative to dichlor (MPS or somethingor other - 4 letters) thats used for the accentuated dose...guess there's more research to do....seems like there's insider references here and there to products I don't understand...

rhtubs.com has a wealth of info on these topics.  You have to poke around a bit, some of it is in guides in the drop-down menus, others in the FAQ (that is where the Vermonter method is outlined) or info boxes, and some in the on-line store.  Another good resource is the Taylor book available separately or with the testing kit, if you decide to go that route instead of strips.  Good luck.

[svspa]

kenoflife,

I can give you a summary of my routine, may help with your understanding. Note that you need to experiment and find out what works for your tub, water and use.

First a couple of basics. My tub is 330 gallons, you'll need to adjust doses for the size of your tub. Second when you dose with any chemical always run all of the jets 5-10 minutes with all valves set to open (middle position for diverters) so all water in the tub is circulated and all parts of the tub plumbing get exposed to the chemical (most important for your dichlor doses).

At startup I balance PH and ALK. My PH and ALK always lean toward the low side so I pretty much only raise them. I use baking soda for this. About 1-2 tablespoons and wait 24 hours to check again. 1 tablespoon of dichlor also at startup.

After each use I add about 1-2 teaspoons (1/2 tablespoon) of dichlor. The plan is to get your free chlorine reading to about 3-5ppm. If you have ozone and/or N2 you might lean more towards 3ppm than 5ppm.

The plan is that with Vermonter's method you are expecting your FC level to get down near zero the next time you soak (assuming about 24 hour soak intervals). The key there is to not let your tub stay at zero PPM FC for very long. Anytime your tub is at zero ppm FC bacteria can start growing and they multiply rapidly in the warm moist environment of a hot tub.

If you don't use your tub for a while you want to periodically check and be sure you have residual FC at all times. If I know I won't use my tub for a while I'll put in 1 or 2 tablespoons, then the residual FC will stay around longer.

About every 1-2 weeks I'll shock. Shocking oxidizes out the combined chlorines (chlorine that has killed something) and other organic contaminants.

You have basically two options for shocking in a dichlor routine, MPS or dichlor.

MPS is easier, you don't have to reach a breakpoint level like you do with dichlor and you can use the tub 30 minutes after an MPS shock. MPS adds more to your total dissolved solids though, so you might need to change your water more frequently. I use about 1-2 tablespoons of MPS when I shock.

With a dichlor shock you should have some idea of the combined chlorine level in your tub. I think the Taylor test kit suggests that the breakpoint chlorination is achieved at 10x your CC level. Vermonter suggests you use 4-7 times your normal dose. At breakpoint chlorination the chlorine level oxidizes the combined chlorines. If you don't get to that level you won't oxidize your CC. An added benefit of a dichlor shock is you are super sanitizing your tub. Another downside is you have to wait for your FC level to come back down to normal before you use your tub, that could take a day or two.

I'll normally shock with MPS but maybe once a month or so I'll shock with dichlor so I get the super sanitizing effect.

That's about it. Rarely but occasionally I'll add a little foam down or clarifier if I have a specific problem to address. These things are not normally part of my routine though, they'll add to your total dissolved solids.

You may have specific water issues that could warrant you using something like metal gone or other additives. My water is pretty well conditioned out of the tap so I don't need any of that stuff.

Good luck and I hope this helps somewhat. If not just ask, everything I have learned was from the good folks here, so I am sure you will get answers to any questions you have.

Steve

[kenoflife]

thanks, that was very helpful!

[East_TX_Spa]

The Baquaspa rep just left my store.  She's a honeybear with a fast car.


Terminator

[kenoflife]

Have her stop by, maybe I'll reconsider baqua....

[svspa]

does she have a hemi?

[East_TX_Spa]

does she have a hemi?

No sir.  She told me if she did have a Hemi, she would probably be in jail right now.

Term

[RandyM]

I have used Baqua Spa since 1998 in my Jet Setter spa and it works great. Simple and easy to use once a week testing.  Keeps the water crystal clear. You will need to hose the filters off every couple weeks and drain the spa every three months. You don't have to use an ozone unit with Baqua there is no benefit to ozone. Besides with the ozone bubbling up from the bottom drain will oxidize the underside of cover and spa pillows.

[Brewman]

The Baquaspa rep just left my store.  She's a honeybear with a fast car.


Terminator

She probably needs a fast car to outrun irate Baqua users.