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Maybe I am a little ignorant on this, but I have never heard of the ozone eating the free chlorine. The main issue is that the sanitizer level needs to be checked shortly after adding chlorine. Remember, you are only sanitizing the tub, not sterilizing it. There will always be something for the chlorine and ozone to oxidize. As soon as the chlorine runs out, bacteria will start regrouping as the ozone alone cannot (in most cases) keep up with the demand. So check the water after 10-15 minutes of adding chlorine and make sure it gets up to the 3-5ppm range. The ozone essentially makes it so you have to add less chlorine to get the spa to the correct level, but you still need to get the spa to 3-5ppm level.As Chas said, "The goal is to have a barely readable amount of chlorine the next morning - having no readable amount could be trouble. " --Perfect
Russ, ozone is eating your free chlorine every day
Just goes to show that you can't believe everything you read on the internet! Sorry pkud, I strongly disagree with your relationship on ozone and free or total chlorine. I've done tens of thousands of water tests over the years and at no point have I ever seen this effect.Steve
>I have never heard of the ozone eating the free chlorine.<I had not heard of it either, so I checked with my HS dealer and it is not so. I think your advice is quite sound. 3-5 ppm of free chlorine about 10-15 minutes after the addition is what is required and ozone has no effect on this requirement. Ozone has nothing to do with dichlor at all. They are compatible with each other, they augment each other, they do not interfere with each other.
PKUD, you said "Russ, ozone is eating your free chlorine every day." This implies to me, and I am sure many others, that the ozone is using up the free chlorine. You need to get the chlorine level up to 3-5ppm to break the bacteria threshold. If there is only a small amount of bacteria in the water due to the ozone working, then it will take very little chlorine to bring it to 3-5ppm. But, you still need to get it to 3-5ppm when you are done using the spa. You say that the only time you need a residual in the spa is when you are using it. The whole reason for a residual is to keep the spa in check when you are not using it. Like you said, ozone is oxidizing when you are not in it. Unfortunately, due to the short half-life of ozone in spa water, oxidizing takes up most of the ozone. After it is done oxidizing, then it begins to act as a sanitizer. Most of the time, it never gets this chance.What I am trying to do when I tell customers how to use chlorine, is to give them a routine that will work 99% of the time. When they get that down, they can back off on the chlorine a little at a time until they get to what works for them. If you were to have 100 customers use their spa, get the chlorine level to 1ppm, and then leave the spa for 2 or more weeks relying only on ozone, I would bet money that over 75% of them would have some sort of biofilm problem. When you rely on ozone, something you have no way of testing, you are asking for trouble.
Russ's original ? Why don't I have a reading the next day? Ozone has oxidized it. The only other reason would be he is using way to little, or his total disolved solids are way too high, drain, clean, re-fill.
AH HA!!!!!!!Potential reasons. Thats what I need to hear.So for a 400 gallon tub, used 3-5 times a week, how much sanitizer should be put in?...roughly speaking.And... How does one know the dissolved solids are way too high?
let's make this easy. The chlorine odor is produced by CHLORAMINES, which are the by-products of chlorine reacting with ammonia or if you will the wastes that get into the spa. i.e. Sweat, and otherbody oils. Ozone is strictly an oxidizer. Oxidation gets rid of chloramines. "Shocking" and Super-Chlorinating a spa/pool helps to oxidize off the wastes/chloramines. Ozone helps to reduce the demand of for sanitizer b/c it constantly oxidizes wastes and chloramines in the spa. so in a sense......ozone eats (breaks down) chloramines.Jason,Store manager for a D-1, Caldera & Nordic Spas Dealer