No Power To Hot Tub

[DanglaGT]

Hi all,

Went out to put chemicals in the hot tub the other day and it was completely dead. It's a Master Spas Getaway Ocho Rios SE plug-and-play that we are plugging into an electrical outlet in the shed in our backyard. It's a new tub that we bought in September 2021 and we have already had a GFCI cord go bad and this same issue of it being dead happened not too long ago as well. That time it magically started working after I started unplugging various components and seeing if it would power on and then it continued to power on as I plugged them all back in. This time that is not happening. I've also tried replacing the 30A fuse to no avail.

After inspecting the circuit board, I am starting to wonder if it's not set up properly for a 120v plug. However, I'm not even close to an electrician so I could be way off, but I also may be onto something. Here are the reasons I believe so:

1. The manual states that the A10 switch on the switchbank should be in the up position for 120v. Here is a screenshot of that:



2. Here is what my switchbank looks like:



3. Here is my power cord connection to the circuit board. Is that "white" cord supposed to actually be white? Does it look fried or is that normal?



Is there anything else I could try to figure out what is preventing the spa from getting power? The GFCI head on the cord appears to be getting power as it has a power indicator light that is lit up. The outlet also works with other appliances.

I do have an extra power cord laying around that I ordered a few months ago and I'm tempted to flip that A10 switch up, install the backup power cord, and see if that works. Thoughts?

[CanadianSpaTech]

Do you have a multi meter and know how to use it safely? Need to see the entire board and also the schematic on the inside cover. Yes with the power off you can set A10 to the up position for 120V operation. With power off I would disconnect the current incoming power wires the black and brown and inspect them closer for signs on burnt ends. The "white" neutral is brown in this case and not uncommon but it is hard to see in the photo if it is damaged. I can see from the bottom photo that there might be other wires that may need to be moved for proper operation at 120V. This is why we need to see the circuit board and also the schematic. If you are going to try a different power cord it HAS to be GFCI protected for safety.

[DanglaGT]

Hi CanadianSpaTech, Thank you for the response! I do not have a multi-meter.

I have disconnected those power wires per your recommendation and the "white" one looks burnt to me. Would you agree?



I agree that it seems like some wires are in the wrong places for 120v operation. Given that, I'm surprised it has operated for this long...

Here is a picture of the schematic from the cover on the circuit board:





And here are some pictures of the circuit board and how it is currently set up:







Let me know if you need any other pictures/information to help diagnose this situation. I would love to be able to fix this without having to call a service tech out here. I really appreciate the help!

This is the backup power cord that I have. I'm sorry if I'm not supposed to post links to products:



https://www.spadepot.com/Spa-GFCI-Power-Cord-In-Line-120V-15A-P9537C193.aspx?zmam=55673001&zmas=1&zmac=1&zmap=BX9968&gclid=Cj0KCQjw6J-SBhCrARIsAH0yMZhCNF27R4vBmWfBTADhgKb6FVg4joUkDywyN89u5aIw7GxYMzgZvNwaAvxyEALw_wcB

[CanadianSpaTech]

A10 Up. Resplice wire and reattach and make sure it is tight. Do you have an ozone in the spa? If no then spa is wired correct. Make sure to hold the nut below the copper tab going to the heater element when tightening the 3/8" nut that goes on top of the copper tab. If you are still having trouble replace the GFCI plug with your spare and try.

[DanglaGT]

Yes, there is an ozon, but it is unplugged from the circuit board for the picture. It looks like you can see the black wire with a little sticker on it that says ozon.

I was hoping that the A10 switch was the only issue. Is there currently a jumper as stated in #3 of the conversion instructions in the lower-left corner of the schematic? Please advise. Thank you!

[CanadianSpaTech]

Yes there is a jumper from Red AC up to White AC as needed so you are good there. The ozone you would need to move the white wire at W2 from where it is currently connected to red AC up to White AC just below the 30 amp fuse where there are currently 2 white wires connected. Just connect it to one of the remaining male tabs.

[DanglaGT]

Thanks for all of your help! I'm back up and running and saved some money in not needing someone to come service it.

Hopefully, the tub is more reliable now that it should be configured properly.