What's the Best Hot Tub

Author Topic: chemical  (Read 2881 times)

taraka

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chemical
« on: September 25, 2004, 10:29:54 pm »
I just got my Sundance Altamar on Tuesday.  Trying to figure out the chemicals.

My dealer gave me the Spaguard starter kit and this is what I've been using.  He told me that I needed to put in 2-3 tsp. 2/3 times a week.  I have an ozonator with Nature 2 and was also told I only needed to put in 3 Tbls. 1 X week.  Does this seem right?

I've been putting 1 tsp per bather a day, but today, not even 1 week later and only 2 times of use, my chlorine measured very low, so I put in the 3 Tbls.  test strips read fine now. ???

Another question is where to purchase test strips, dichlor? ???

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chemical
« on: September 25, 2004, 10:29:54 pm »

tony

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Re: chemical
« Reply #1 on: September 26, 2004, 09:47:02 pm »
I assume that you have dichlor in your Spaguard starter kit and that is the chlorine your are using.  Your routine of 1 tsp dichlor per bather after use and a shock of 3 tbls per week should keep your water in good shape as far as sanitation goes.  It will be very hard to maintain a level of chlorine and not necessary.  Adding the chlorine after you use your spa will allow it to do its work and then disappear so the next time you soak, you will be in chemical free water.  Test after you add chlorine to be sure you get about 2 ppm free chlorine.  Your weekly 3 tbls shock should get the level to 10 ppm and should take about 24 hours to drop low enough to use.

Your dealer should have dichlor and test strips or online at www.rhtubs.com is a good source.

Drewski

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Re: chemical
« Reply #2 on: September 27, 2004, 01:27:48 pm »
Hi Taraka:

Tony's right on the mark about chemistry, unless you are a "heavy" user.  The purpose of Ozone and Nature2 is to reduce but NOT eliminate the amount of chemicals added to the water, making the water "smoother" for use. Like you, I use both an Ozonator and Nature2, with 2 ppm being a good "base" level for chlorination.  

The test strip you are using probably has 2 "chlorine" readings, "actual" and "free" (sometimes called "residual").  Your readings should be at the "minimal" levels on the strip. BUT, be careful.  New tub owners sometimes get complacent about chemistry and don't realize that sanitized water doesn’t necessarily mean "clean" water.  Dirt suspended in water makes it foam and get cloudy.  Only FILTRATION and other treatments get rid of dirt.

"FREE" chlorine also comes into play when you suddenly increase tub usage by a number of people.  Say only you and someone else use your tub on a regular basis. You "minimally" treat your water as we have discussed and the water chemistry is in "equilibrium" for your level of use.  On Saturday night, you have a bunch of friends over for a “hot tub social.”  You add the dichlor after the party as indicated but Sunday when you go to use the tub, the water looks like crap.

Two things most likely happened. The first is that the FREE level of chlorine probably wasn't high enough to take care of sanitation BEFORE a problem occurred.  Nature2 is a great product, but it doesn’t respond quickly to changing water situations.  Consider pre-shocking the tub about 2 to 6 hours before heavy use if you know it's coming -- ESPECIALLY if kids will use it.  

The second problem is that "dissolved solids," stuff like body oils, fats, lotions, deodorants, etc., end up "clouding" the water.  This happens when a bunch of people use the tub, even if they take showers before getting in.  Unless the sanitizing additive you are using includes a "clarifier," the water will still be dirty, even if chlorine levels are "OK."  Switch to a vinyl pool shock containing dichlor with added “clarifying” agents and start using a product like "Super Clear Clarifier" by AquaEZ (see my recent post in the “What color should water be?” thread).

Good luck and hope this helps...

Drewski

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It's a HOT tub... anything else is just a POOL!

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Re: chemical
« Reply #2 on: September 27, 2004, 01:27:48 pm »

 

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