WATER TREATMENT PROGRAM - NEW MEMBER

[GB9]

Hello All, new hot tub owner here. About a month and a half ago I took delivery of my very first spa. I went with an artesian spas grand bahama, 61 jets with dual foot blasters. So far we are in love with it. As stated this is my very first tub so the whole water treatment thing is new to me.
My dealer is amazing no complaints at all, the tub came with a chemical start up kit which I have been following. I am just looking for some input on it as I don't know any better, and maybe there could be a better / more economical approach with the same results.  The tubs Capacity is 450 gal or 1,703 L.
It has 3 pumps and a circ pump in which I have set to run 24 hrs a day.

I am using a floater with with small chlorine puck in it, I have the floater set to the lowest setting and I find I go thru at least 4 pucks a week.
I rinse both filters once a week.
Add 250ML of Aqua Finess one day and 100ML of Spa Perfect on a following day.
For choline adjustments  I use granular.

The only complaint I have is I seem to chew thru a lot of chlorine pucks in the floater even with it set on the lowest setting, My chlorine levels are spot on though.

any input on this system would be appreciated.

[wmccall]

Welcome to the forum!  Tell us about this chlorine puck?  This is far from my specialty, but this isn't normal in the hottub world.

[GB9]

These are what I use in the floater : http://www.hottubessentials.ca/chlorine-spa-tabs-800-gm-trichlor-mini-tablets.html

[wmccall]

These are what I use in the floater : http://www.hottubessentials.ca/chlorine-spa-tabs-800-gm-trichlor-mini-tablets.html

Don't take my word and I'll watch for other replies, but from my past memories most hot tub manufacturers recommend you don't use Trichlor in favor of Di-Chlor.  I though tri chlor was mainly used in pools.  We used to have a pretty good chem guy here, but I hurt his feelings and he tooks his ball and went home.

[meriflower]

Bill is right.  Trichlor is not recommended and manufacturers usually have a disclaimer about it in their manual and go on to say it is not covered under warranty.  It's not recommended for spas because it's highly acidic.

[bradleyabell]

These are what I use in the floater : http://www.hottubessentials.ca/chlorine-spa-tabs-800-gm-trichlor-mini-tablets.html

As others have said...I would definitely switch to dichlor.

[wmccall]

As for the chlorine levels, since we use our tub almost every night, I don't worry about the levels. I try to put in just enough that it reaches 0 in about 36 hours.   I like to read zero when I get in and I add dichlor when I get out again. If for some reason I can't use the tub for a few days, I add a little extra.

[castletonia]

trichlor tabs dissolve too quickly in warm water, and they are really acidic (pH of around 2.5 I think).  Not sure what is really in Aqua Finesse, but don't think you need to do that along with Spa Perfect, I would choose one or the other.  As others have said, use dichlor for your chlorine, its the type of chlorine manufacturer's recommend.  If your spa has the Frog in-line sanitation you could try the mineral + @ease.

[Conine2965]

I have same size tub I use dichlor and ease mineral system. Balance tub once a week. Works perfectly without any expensive additives.

[GB9]

Can someone outline what's involved in switching over to a dichlor system? are there any benefits to dichlor over a bromine system?
as a newbie I am overwhelmed with all the different info and products out there for spa water maintenance.

Just looking for some recommendations on what I should be doing as I have just been following what my dealer set me up with, weather it is correct or not.

[Conine2965]

Next time you fill.  Balance water add dichlor. I add a little dichlor each time im in tub. Balance once a week. I also use frog mineral system. Simple and works well. I've been doing it for 15 years 2 different tubs.

[The Wizard of Spas]

Can someone outline what's involved in switching over to a dichlor system? are there any benefits to dichlor over a bromine system?
as a newbie I am overwhelmed with all the different info and products out there for spa water maintenance.

Just looking for some recommendations on what I should be doing as I have just been following what my dealer set me up with, weather it is correct or not.

Your water is already chlorine-based, so there is no real "switch" other than dropping the tri-chlor tablets for di-chlor granulars.  The biggest concern with tabletized chlorine is that it allows for a build up of gas.  This gas is harmful to breath, and it takes its toll on the lining of the cover as well as the headrests. 

Granular chlorine (Sodium Dichlor) cannot tabletize and therefor is a good sanitizer in a hot tub.  The key is to allow for your cover to stay open after you add chlorine for about 15 mins or so.  Use potassium peroxymonopersulfate approx. once a week to help oxidize dead algae and bacteria, dead skin cells, and other organic material.  Keep pH 7.2-7.8 at all times, with the alk running 80-120ppm.  If you subscribe to an alkalinity of 100-150, do not be surprised to see your pH climb and climb the closer to 150 ppm you hover.

The benefits to Di-chlor is that it is cheap and easy.  Bromine is a tad softer on your skin, has less odor (eventhough it is like 30% chlorine) but it tends to cost a smidge more and you have to deal with a floater.  Nature 2/Spa Frog is the third most common way to treat your tub.  It tends to be the softest on your skin and offer the least amount of odor, but tends to cost the most (in relative figures).  I can operate all three w/o issue.  Its more about your comfort, how often you use your hot tub, and what agrees with you. 

I hope this helps.  Good luck moving forward.

[GB9]

Can someone outline what's involved in switching over to a dichlor system? are there any benefits to dichlor over a bromine system?
as a newbie I am overwhelmed with all the different info and products out there for spa water maintenance.

Just looking for some recommendations on what I should be doing as I have just been following what my dealer set me up with, weather it is correct or not.

Your water is already chlorine-based, so there is no real "switch" other than dropping the tri-chlor tablets for di-chlor granulars.  The biggest concern with tabletized chlorine is that it allows for a build up of gas.  This gas is harmful to breath, and it takes its toll on the lining of the cover as well as the headrests. 

Granular chlorine (Sodium Dichlor) cannot tabletize and therefor is a good sanitizer in a hot tub.  The key is to allow for your cover to stay open after you add chlorine for about 15 mins or so.  Use potassium peroxymonopersulfate approx. once a week to help oxidize dead algae and bacteria, dead skin cells, and other organic material.  Keep pH 7.2-7.8 at all times, with the alk running 80-120ppm.  If you subscribe to an alkalinity of 100-150, do not be surprised to see your pH climb and climb the closer to 150 ppm you hover.

The benefits to Di-chlor is that it is cheap and easy.  Bromine is a tad softer on your skin, has less odor (eventhough it is like 30% chlorine) but it tends to cost a smidge more and you have to deal with a floater.  Nature 2/Spa Frog is the third most common way to treat your tub.  It tends to be the softest on your skin and offer the least amount of odor, but tends to cost the most (in relative figures).  I can operate all three w/o issue.  Its more about your comfort, how often you use your hot tub, and what agrees with you. 

I hope this helps.  Good luck moving forward.

Very good info thank you.. How often do you find you need to add the di-chlor?
what would be a common weekly routine be?

with the chems I was set up with from my dealer, (outlined above) I was advised to keep my levels @

CHLORINE:[/u] KEEP LEVELS BETWEEN 1 & 3
ALKALINITY: KEEP OVER 120 AT ALL TIMES: This means in the top 2 blocks on your strips (180-240)
PH: KEEP OVER 7.4 AT ALL TIMES: If it’s low, it is usually caused by low Alkalinity
CALCIUM: KEEP OVER 150

[The Wizard of Spas]

Can someone outline what's involved in switching over to a dichlor system? are there any benefits to dichlor over a bromine system?
as a newbie I am overwhelmed with all the different info and products out there for spa water maintenance.

Just looking for some recommendations on what I should be doing as I have just been following what my dealer set me up with, weather it is correct or not.

Your water is already chlorine-based, so there is no real "switch" other than dropping the tri-chlor tablets for di-chlor granulars.  The biggest concern with tabletized chlorine is that it allows for a build up of gas.  This gas is harmful to breath, and it takes its toll on the lining of the cover as well as the headrests. 

Granular chlorine (Sodium Dichlor) cannot tabletize and therefor is a good sanitizer in a hot tub.  The key is to allow for your cover to stay open after you add chlorine for about 15 mins or so.  Use potassium peroxymonopersulfate approx. once a week to help oxidize dead algae and bacteria, dead skin cells, and other organic material.  Keep pH 7.2-7.8 at all times, with the alk running 80-120ppm.  If you subscribe to an alkalinity of 100-150, do not be surprised to see your pH climb and climb the closer to 150 ppm you hover.

The benefits to Di-chlor is that it is cheap and easy.  Bromine is a tad softer on your skin, has less odor (eventhough it is like 30% chlorine) but it tends to cost a smidge more and you have to deal with a floater.  Nature 2/Spa Frog is the third most common way to treat your tub.  It tends to be the softest on your skin and offer the least amount of odor, but tends to cost the most (in relative figures).  I can operate all three w/o issue.  Its more about your comfort, how often you use your hot tub, and what agrees with you. 

I hope this helps.  Good luck moving forward.

Very good info thank you.. How often do you find you need to add the di-chlor?
what would be a common weekly routine be?

with the chems I was set up with from my dealer, (outlined above) I was advised to keep my levels @

CHLORINE:[/u] KEEP LEVELS BETWEEN 1 & 3
ALKALINITY: KEEP OVER 120 AT ALL TIMES: This means in the top 2 blocks on your strips (180-240)
PH: KEEP OVER 7.4 AT ALL TIMES: If it’s low, it is usually caused by low Alkalinity
CALCIUM: KEEP OVER 150

The alkalinity level is counter to what I would think most of the country runs by.  However, there may be specific things happening in your local source water that, say, your local dealer is accounting for.  Most places do either 80-120ppm or 100-150ppm, depending on the school of thought.  But again, I always defer to local dealers as they know their source waters.

As for chlorine, think of it like your pantry:  You take out of your pantry what you use.  Thus, you don't always use the same amount.  Consider:  How long are you in the tub?  How often?  How many people?  Those will define how much chlorine to add.  Test 3-4 times/week for the first two weeks or so to get a feel where your usage patterns are.  If, say, you're adding 2 ounces of chlorine 2x per week, and your chlorine levels read in the 1-3ppm, you're good.  If its low, add more.  High, add less.  Make sense?  Its tough to say as everyone uses their hot tubs differently.  Just test a bunch for the first 2 weeks and once you get a better feel for how you're using the tub (and how much chlorine you're using), you can throttle back on testing.  Hope this makes sense/helps.

[Sorrentino100]

Here is a Dichlor schedule from HotSpring (For a 450 gal tub):

Prior to each use: 3/4 teaspoon.

Once a week: 2-1/4 teaspoons.

As needed, if water is hazy, cloudy or has an odor: 2-1/4 taespoons.

That's it.