FL2 Error Code

[overlandsea]

Hi, and thanks to those who have helped with set up questions. Got everything in my Winchester Imperial set up and enjoyed our first soak last night!

Today it has a FL2 error code  Expected some issues with a cheap used tub so not too disappointed. Seems like all my previous reading on this issue concerned tubs w/ a circulation pump. Mine just runs Pump 1 in low speed for filtering/heating (not continuously of course)

Anyways, the code goes away with Pump 1 on in any speed, but stays on with Pump 2 on or no pumps on.

So I know this is the flow sensor.
Any tricks out there besides remove and replace?
The Jacuzzi repair manual suggests unscrewing the sensor from the housing and checking for debris. Worthwhile? I'm thinking its possible that the spa system flush I used might have gotten some gunk stuck in the sensor.
Possible ways a hot tub newbie might have screwed it up with initial start up?

Lastly, do I need to turn it off until I resolve the issue? I read one post somewhere about possible damage from heater on with no flow. Is this an accurate possibility?

Thanks!

[clover]

.....Today it has a FL2 error code.....Mine just runs Pump 1 in low speed for filtering/heating (not continuously of course).....the code goes away with Pump 1 on in any speed, but stays on with Pump 2 on or no pumps on.

So I know this is the flow sensor.....Any tricks out there besides remove and replace?
The Jacuzzi repair manual suggests unscrewing the sensor from the housing and checking for debris. Worthwhile? I'm thinking its possible that the spa system flush I used might have gotten some gunk stuck in the sensor.
Possible ways a hot tub newbie might have screwed it up with initial start up?..... I read one post somewhere about possible damage from heater on with no flow. Is this an accurate possibility?

Thanks!

First. it appears your flow switch/pressure switch is working properly.  The sensor in integrated into the pump 1 plumbing system, and indications are the switch is closing and opeing when pump 1 is in operation.  The Flow Switch is not your problem, but lack of FLOW is your problem because the moving water in the plumbing is NOT closing the switch when the circuit board is expecting it to be closed.  Are you in economy or standard?

The symptom is the FLO2 message, the problem is the lack flow.  When P1 is operating, no problem, but when it stops, the problem appears.  Changing the switch will do nothing to address the problem with the lack of flow.  Take the filter out to see if it is a dirty filter.  Pump 1 is closing the switch, allowing the heater to work, when it is on.  Pump 2 has noting to do with the flow switch or the heater system and is not in the equation. 

Don't mess with unscrewing the switch, unless you want to buy a new one.  Screwing them in or out can damage the thin metal part of the switch.  If that happens, put a new one in, and continue your troubleshooting.

The question is, why does you circuit board expect the system to be running with the switch closed and the heat on.  Is it in a program filter operation, or a thermal demand operation with the heat request higher than the actual temperature. 

[overlandsea]

-Thanks for the help!

Filters are brand new. I just screwed them in. Is there any preinstall thing I should have done?

Could soft water make the sensor not recognize the water? I know this can be a problem with sensors in espresso machines. We have really soft water. I haven't added enough water hardener (or whatever that stuff is called) yet according to the test strips (like still way off).

In standard mode I believe.

Do I risk damage if I turn the spa on for a long time? Thanks!

[overlandsea]

The question is, why does you circuit board expect the system to be running with the switch closed and the heat on.  Is it in a program filter operation, or a thermal demand operation with the heat request higher than the actual temperature.

Honestly, I don't really understand this part. Can you clarify? Thanks.

[overlandsea]

Also found that tub is running hot. I have it set to 98, but actual temp is 104. Not sure if this could be related.

[SerjicalStrike]

You have a bad flow/pressure switch.  FL2 represents a flow/pressure switch sensing flow/pressure when no flow/pressure is present.  When you turn the pump on, there is supposed to be flow/pressure, so the error code goes away. 

As far as the temperature issue.  Is the water actually 104 and reading 104? If it is reading 104 and not actually that temp, you would have a bad temperature sensor.  If it Is reading 104 and is actually 104, check your filter settings.  The filtration setting may cause the pump to run so long that the heat from the pump is heating the water.

[clover]

Leave your spa on as long as you like, no damage will occur.  The Flow switch is a safety switch that prevents electric power getting to the heater that has inadequate water flow, thus preventing it from dry firing and burning out the element.

We need to find out where your water pressure is.  I believe your flow switch is good because when you turn P1 on it closes and the flow message disappears.  But when you turn P1 off, the flow message reappears because the electrical brains are expecting the water flow to continue holding the switch closed, when water stops however the switch opens as it should, are you sure you don’t have a circ pump that is not working? 

[overlandsea]

So I thought trying to visually inspect the switch would be a good next step, but I can't seem to find the thing

Where should I look? I didn't see it near the control panel. Are they sometimes installed on a different side?

[overlandsea]

So I thought trying to visually inspect the switch would be a good next step, but I can't seem to find the thing

Where should I look? I didn't see it near the control panel. Are they sometimes installed on a different side?

Ok, answered my own question. I was looking for the switch in the clear housing. This has the pressure switch that is inside the control box and appears to be going into the heater directly behind the control box

Anyways, I unplugged it from the board and plugged it back in. It wasn't obviously loose, but could have been (wasn't the tightest connection ever).

Also, there was a plastic tightening washer on the threaded bolt of the pressure switch. It was completely backed off. That seemed odd, so I hand tightened it.

Anyways, it seems like one or both of these has fixed it. No error code yet at least.

[overlandsea]

So I thought trying to visually inspect the switch would be a good next step, but I can't seem to find the thing

Where should I look? I didn't see it near the control panel. Are they sometimes installed on a different side?

Ok, answered my own question. I was looking for the switch in the clear housing. This has the pressure switch that is inside the control box and appears to be going into the heater directly behind the control box

Anyways, I unplugged it from the board and plugged it back in. It wasn't obviously loose, but could have been (wasn't the tightest connection ever).

Also, there was a plastic tightening washer on the threaded bolt of the pressure switch. It was completely backed off. That seemed odd, so I hand tightened it.

Anyways, it seems like one or both of these has fixed it. No error code yet at least.

So to answer my own question again, yes I now know that the plastic washer is an adjuster for the pressure switch. Seems likely this got bumped out of position during the move. Now my fiddling with it sent it way off. I turned the spa off and I'll adjust it to the proper place tomorrow and hopefully everything should be OK.

Found what seems to be a good guide for adjustment here: http://www.poolspahelp.com/spa_pressure_switch.htm

Hopefully this can be of some help to others in the future!