Leveling a concrete floor

[red2play]

Using the back patio for the spa and I found that my concrete padding is 3in leaning away from the house.  Now I'm considering several options after talking to several persons.

1.  Using wood cut at angles approx. 1 foot separation to create a level surface (would be temporary for about 6 months).
2.  Using pebbled rock hemmed in by a wood frame attached to the patio cement.
3.  applying self leveling concrete to an 8x8 area in the existing concrete platform.
4.  Buying an EZ-PAD and simply adding the wood or bricks underneath and allowing the pad to distribute the weight. 

What do you think of the options that's been recommended to me?

[TwinCitiesHotSpring]

If it was me I would use some self leveling concrete to create a flat space which is the same size as the spa (feathering the edges into the existing concrete of course), you could make it so the spa covers up the "patched" area so it would be out of sight...a wood frame (depending how its done) could be an eyesore/trip hazard...an ez pad, on top of being in the neighborhood of $400 could also be a toe stubber if your spa isn't exactly 8' x 8' and shims are a lot of work (when actually done properly) for a temporary fix + your at more risk to put unwanted stress on the shell of your spa if it isn't done correctly.

just my .02   good luck

[Topline Mike]

Are you redoing the entire patio in 6 months?  If you are, I would use the wood shims so-to-speak.  If you use the self-leveling concrete, which I really don't know exists, it will be permanent.  Self-leveling to me means that it is watered down a lot, and that makes for weak concrete.  As for your pitch of 3 inches, is that in the length of the spa, 8' or so?  I talked about this in a previous thread.  If you only drop about 2 inches in 8', I would think you could get by with that. 

I just built a wood deck above my brick paver patio because of the frost heave I get here in WI, and my hot water line coming from the outdoor wood stove runs under my patio, making matters even worse. 

[Tman122]

The new epoxy over coats (you pour them on and they harden level) tapered down on the edges and are hidden under the spa but they are more permanent would be ideal IMO. Which is better? Depends on your needs, wants and skill. Pretty easy to do. Do some research. You can spend a lot or get less expensive brands. Read the directions carefully and seal your forms down good with construction adhesive made for removal. The more time you spend on the forms the pourin is easy. Make your forms a little taller and use a level line. Or other guys like the forms perfect so they can work the edges earlier. Sculpting the edges with a scrib or a radius trowel is pretty easy to do after it cures the proper amount and the forms are off. I get in a hurry and this reduces a chance of a spill or overflow if your messy.

Here's a very good product. 

http://www.signature-concrete-stain.com/self-leveling-floor-compound.html

[clover]

The water is always guaranteed to be level, 

3" is a lot.  I would suggest:
Step 1) inserting a 3" board under the edge of the spa that will establish the tub in a level position.
Step 2) using multiple strips of plywood, slide a strip of plywood under the spa from the elevated end where your 3" spacer is until the plywood stops after hitting the other end of the spa.
Step 3) add additional strips of plywood below the first one, pushing it in until it too stops, repeating this process until you have successfully filled the empty space to support the 3" elevated end.

Keep in mind, the shell wants to rest on a solid surface, and it has supports strategically located under the shell to equally disperse the weight over the square footage footprint.  Placing plywood under the spa allows the base of the spa to remain in contact with the flat patio surface.  Once a level is established, mark you boards to be cut flush to the primeter edge of the spa so they will disappear under the spa, but supporting the base.  This will establish the level of the spa.  If necessary, you can apply a piece of trim around the bottom edge to hide any rough edges.