FL1 Error on Sweetwater Bahia

[tywebb1973]

About two weeks ago, I noticed the FL1 error was up and the temperature had dropped about 20 degrees.  I drained the tub (it needed a cleaning anyway) and cleaned the filter, refilled and the error was still there.  However, the next day it seemed to go away and the temperature was back up to where I had it set.  Then a few days later, the temperature dropped again and the FL1 error came back.  A side note, in case related, the water level dropped about 6-8 inches as well.  But then suddenly stopped dropping (I kept checking the level). 

So today, I refilled back to the normal level and pulled the panel off.  I could hear a small hum which I believe is the circulation pump.  I stuck my hand in and could feel water coming out the circulation jet.  I did notice a big air bubble in the flow switch but eventually that disappeared.  But still no heat but the FL1 error seemed to disappear only to be replaced by the ICE error (I am in NJ so its been cold here but today is in the 50s and the hot tub is registering a temp of 60).  Turned the power off to check the control panel, noticed nothing unusual.

Turned power back on and the FL1 error is back and in looking at the flow switch, it appears open (open space between the two leads or whatever you call them).  But now there doesn't appear to be any flow coming out of the circulation jet.  I can't feel anything unless I turn on the jets then I feel something from the circulation jet (although it feels more like suction than water coming out).  But I do hear humming which I assume is the circulation pump.  Next step is to remove the filter try the seal the filter outlet with a rag and shoot hose water to clear a possible air bubble.  I tried that before and it did nothing. 

Any other thoughts would be appreciated before I break down and call a spa guy who will charge me an arm and a leg. 

PS - the circ pump gets very warm when it's powered up.  But little to no flow from circulation jet.

[SerjicalStrike]

Sounds like a bad circulation pump. 

[tywebb1973]

I am not so sure now.  As a last ditch thing, I took the hose and put it against the outlet jet and thrust water backwards through the flow switch and pump.  Lots of bubbles came out of the filter intake valve.  I powered the system back up, the FL1 error disappeared and slowly but surely, the tub heated back up to 101.  FLow switch seemed to be working, etc.

Go check two days later and the FL1 error is back and the heat has dropped to 73 and it hovering around there now (It's been quite cold here in NJ). 

Now I am wondering if there is something wrong with the flow switch or heat sensor?  I am going to check tonight ot see if the circulation pump is still going. 

[SerjicalStrike]

Sounds like a bad circulation pump

[clover]

Bad Circ pump maybe, of course there must be water flowing through the flow switch in order to close the sail switch and be recognized by the circuit board that it is a "closed circuit" allowing the heater to operate.  The ohms reading of a closed switch should be 0 ohms.

OR, it could be a bad flow switch that does not "open" the circuit when the water flow stops.  When water starts to flow it won't matter, because according to the circuit board, the switch never opened.  Although the flow switch is in a "transparent tee" and you can see the sail switch physically open and close, it is more important to know if the circuit board recognizes the switch is "opening the circuit". 

IF we can verify the circ pump is moving water through the transparent tee housing of the flow switch, That eliminates the circ pump. 

BUT, DOES THE CIRCUIT BOARD recognize the switch to be "open" when the water flow stops?  It should read 0 ohms when closed, and infinity when it is open.  I would propose the switch, when open, is still reading a number of ohms, and the circuit board does not accept that as an open circuit and goes into a flow message.

Simple test verification, with the spa power off, disconnect the "flo switch" sensor loom and plug it back in immediately, and power up.  IF your flow message goes away, the circuit board recognizes that when you removed the sensor loom, the flow swith "opened" the circuit when you removed the loom, and that satisfys the circuit board as an open switch.  When you plug it back in, it is still a bad flow switch, and the next start, stop cycle, your flow message will recur, that is until the flow switch is changed out.

Sweetwater Bahia, can have a transparent "flow switch", or "Pressure switch" in the bottom of the Circuit box screwed into the heater housing, but the same theory applies, remove a single lead from the switch and put it back on the pressure switch if that is the case.

Let us know the outcome.

[snoopy4331]

This sounds almost identical to the routine I went through this winter. Exactly the same scenario.. FL1, water temp dropped for a few days, then it mysteriously went away for a few, then went back to the FL1. I tried purging air from the system and had just replaced the flow control switch less than a year ago. I suppose it could still be the switch, but I'm highly suspect my circulation pump has kicked the bucket. When I turn the tub on and with the filter removed, I get no suction at the filter inlet. I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a new circ pump unless someone talks me off my ledge?