Shocking Bromine Spa

[smackman]

I use Bromine Tablets as my sanitizer I have spa guard non chlorine shock - Oxidizer 39% potassium peroxymonosulfate.

We use the Hot tub at least 6 days a week. How often should I shock? Also, When I shock my Bromine reading goes really high; Why and is it a real number?

I also have Spa Essentials Brominating Concentrate; Can I shock with it or which is better?

My water can start looking a little dull after 2 weeks of operation. My filters are new and to the best of my knowledge, My water is fairly balanced.

My Hot Tub is approx 380 gallons.

Thanks in Advance

[Jacuzzi Jim]

I use Bromine Tablets as my sanitizer I have spa guard non chlorine shock - Oxidizer 39% potassium peroxymonosulfate.

We use the Hot tub at least 6 days a week. How often should I shock? Also, When I shock my Bromine reading goes really high; Why and is it a real number?

I also have Spa Essentials Brominating Concentrate; Can I shock with it or which is better?

My water can start looking a little dull after 2 weeks of operation. My filters are new and to the best of my knowledge, My water is fairly balanced.

My Hot Tub is approx 380 gallons.

Thanks in Advance

 Probably should be shocking the spa about once a week, if you are using the granular bromine the shock is probably activating that and it's why you get a higher reading after shocking.  I don't know why with that spa you are using bromine other than if it's working for you why change it I guess??

[smackman]

I use Bromine Tablets as my sanitizer I have spa guard non chlorine shock - Oxidizer 39% potassium peroxymonosulfate.

We use the Hot tub at least 6 days a week. How often should I shock? Also, When I shock my Bromine reading goes really high; Why and is it a real number?

I also have Spa Essentials Brominating Concentrate; Can I shock with it or which is better?

My water can start looking a little dull after 2 weeks of operation. My filters are new and to the best of my knowledge, My water is fairly balanced.

My Hot Tub is approx 380 gallons.

Thanks in Advance

 Probably should be shocking the spa about once a week, if you are using the granular bromine the shock is probably activating that and it's why you get a higher reading after shocking. I don't know why with that spa you are using bromine other than if it's working for you why change it I guess??

I have always used Bromine. Trying to understand what you are saying. What am I missing here?

[Chas]

hey smacky - Bromine Tablets! Wow - I know many dealers recommend them, sell them, love them. But I don't. Most tablets contain about 40% Chlorine or more, and that chlorine cloud under your cover is a constant attack on your cover, headrest pillows and sometimes the finish on controls. The way it attacks your cover is a little bit sneaky: it gets inside and breaks down the vapor barrier so the cover begins to absorb water - slowly, so it's way too heavy and way too late by time you notice it.

And I have never liked the way it entrains air in the water: the spa can be perfectly clear until you turn on the jets or blower, and then it goes milky or gray. Not harmful, unless you count the fact that you can't see where you are stepping. Goes away slowly after you shut off the jets, but as it rises, it puts that cloud, with THAT smell - right at face height.

And - floating feeders, or trap doors in the skimmer weir, or even inline feeders are NOT automatic: you still have to test, and then you need to empty them or remove them if the bromine level gets too high. Most people don't.

Other than that, I suppose they are fine. I'm not a chem geek in the truest sense, but I suspect that Bromine belongs in open bodies of water: pools or spas which are not tightly covered as yours is. The one exception is "Brilliance" brand products, which are chlorine-free. You still have to remove the floating feeder if the level goes up. There is less air entrainment, and you add your own shock once a week - and of course that means you can leave the cover open for a bit to protect it and add years to it's life. But why not try: Dichlor?

I like plain old, good old, cheap old Dichlor. You spend less, and you add a small amount after every spa use, as you exit. Leave the lid open for ten minutes with full jet action, and you're done. The cover lasts longer, you can get the levels down so low you are basically soaking chlorine free - especially if you have an ozone system and are using Nature2 mineral purifiers. You can shock with MPS, or Dichlor - the MPS does it's work faster and leaves the scene, Dichlor is cheaper.

I do make far less profit by recommending my customers go with Dichlor - for one thing, I sell fewer covers. And the Chems themselves are lower priced and offer slimmer margins. There's no brand loyalty that I have found in my area on Dichlor. But I really feel it is the right way to sanitize a spa.

Just something to think about!

 

[smackman]

Years ago, I worked at Great lakes chemical in Arkansas; We produced Bromine. We strip Bromine out of Brine WATER by using Chlorine and Steam in a granite Tower.

When I left the plant, I "accidentally" took 2 full 25 lb buckets of Bromine tablets with me; We used the tablets to keep our cooling tower water adjusted properly.

That is why I use Bromine.  Also, I have asked for forgiveness a long time ago. 

[Jacuzzi Jim]

 Well when you run out of bromine go get yourself some dichlor and a proclear (nat2) cartridge and you will like it even more.

  You ever get out of your spa and smell like a chunk of bromine?  If not your doing good!

[smackman]

This only happens when it is time to change the water; generally around the 40 day mark. I change the water every 45 days because we are heavy users and it is not a big deal.

[999]

I am just coming to the end of my second lot of water. The first three months used slow dissolving Bromine tablets in a floater. I also shocked about once a week with MPS . I had three problems. I found the smell chocking, the Bromine level went so high after it was shocked that we couldn't use it for days. I also found that the total disolvable solids went up to 1600 before my water change. The reason the levels go high is because the MPS reactivates spent Bromine and as the water gets older the levels get higher.

After using dichlor for almost 3 months i am happier with it. It smells better feels fresher and the MPS shock doesn't alter the chlorine levels. The TDS are much lower too. As for the cost, I haven't used a Kg of dichlor yet and its only £10, so apart from being cheaper i think it is better.

[smackman]

I do not find using Bromine to be a Issue,difficult or "stinky" unless you allow it to get away from you.. It is definitely more stable that chlorine. The key is to run the Bromine level as low as possible around 1-2 ppm. It takes a little practice and effort but works well. I look at a Hot Tub like a over sized bath tub; 10X easier than a 30 foot above ground pool in which I used chlorine all the way.

I never have a issue with low PH. I fight getting the PH down.

[999]

When i was using bromine i was keeping the levels between 3-6 ppm which was what i thought was the safe level. It was also what was advised as ok on my test strips. It was easy to keep at this level except for the high readings after shocking but it was smelly and the TDS readings show that much more chemicals were used than using dichlor. I didn't think a low bromine level of 1-2 was enough to kill all the bugs.

[smackman]

Today, I am reading 3 ppm; PH is 7.5. I shocked my HT generally once a week; non chlorine shock.. I do it with the cover off so it can degas. We use our HT 5 - 6 days a week for 20-30 minutes with a temp. of 101.

It is true that A Bromine Hot Tub water can look crystal Clear and turn "cloudy" when the blower jets are turned on. It is a small issue to me because all my visitors see the water with only the circulation pump running.

I can have the smell issue at the end of the waters life cycle which is generally no more than 45 days. By then, Foam becomes a nuisance. De-foamer actually stops working.

Some might say that is to soon to start foaming but the wife and I wipe down or shower before we enter and 99% of the time we are "in our personal skippies"; no swimming attire.  .

I would love to find a way for the foam not to come so soon.

IF my Bromine was not free, I would be open to change; My Wife is happy and that is whats important.

[TwinCitiesHotSpring]

It is true that A Bromine Hot Tub water can look crystal Clear and turn "cloudy" when the blower jets are turned on. It is a small issue to me because all my visitors see the water with only the circulation pump running.

that phenomenon you described is typical of water that is not balanced...what are your calcium and alk. readings?...when I drain and re-fill all of my showroom spas the same thing happens before I properly balance the water because our tap water here is high in alk. (275ppm out of tap) and calcium (300ppm)

[smackman]

It is true that A Bromine Hot Tub water can look crystal Clear and turn "cloudy" when the blower jets are turned on. It is a small issue to me because all my visitors see the water with only the circulation pump running.

that phenomenon you described is typical of water that is not balanced...what are your calcium and alk. readings?...when I drain and re-fill all of my showroom spas the same thing happens before I properly balance the water because our tap water here is high in alk. (275ppm out of tap) and calcium (300ppm)

My alkalinity is around 100; My calcium I have no idea. I do not have the luxury of having my water analyzed. I need to buy a really good test kit I guess. The alkalinity reading is based on a test strip. My alkalinity starts off super high; I have trouble keeping the PH down for a couple of days. Now my PH is holding steady at approx 7.5 using a test kit.

[TwinCitiesHotSpring]

It is true that A Bromine Hot Tub water can look crystal Clear and turn "cloudy" when the blower jets are turned on. It is a small issue to me because all my visitors see the water with only the circulation pump running.

that phenomenon you described is typical of water that is not balanced...what are your calcium and alk. readings?...when I drain and re-fill all of my showroom spas the same thing happens before I properly balance the water because our tap water here is high in alk. (275ppm out of tap) and calcium (300ppm)

My alkalinity is around 100; My calcium I have no idea. I do not have the luxury of having my water analyzed. I need to buy a really good test kit I guess. The alkalinity reading is based on a test strip. My alkalinity starts off super high; I have trouble keeping the PH down for a couple of days. Now my PH is holding steady at approx 7.5 using a test kit.

the Taylor k-2006 is a great kit...less than $50 from Amazon I believe...part of the cloudiness could be high calcium esp. if the water is near the end of its life...does the water appear cloudy due to small white flaky looking particles?

[smackman]

My Calcium level would be low according to the test strips; Our tap water "suds" extremely easy.
My current PH is 7.5; Bromine is 3 ppm; I actually test the water with phenol red and whatever the yellow bottle is.

Now, My Test Strips show the alkalinity around 100 and the calcium hardness on the bottom of the low range. Our tap water has a High PH and the water is super soft.