Can you shock your spa more than once a week?

[NurseN2000]

My water is a little cloudy, and I want to shock it.  My boyfriend told me I am shocking it too often, because we have ozone and we should hardly ever need to add any chemicals.  He grew up with a pool in his backyard, so he knows all about chemicals for swimming pools, but he's never had a hot tub.  I have found that my water will stay crystal clear for about a week - 10 days or so on the initial fill, but then gets a bit cloudy about every 3-4 days.  We use the tub like crazy (pretty much every night x2 people, with occasional guests), and my boyfriend is in the habit of going into the tub after his daily workout, then dipping his head and hair under the water like a bathtub (he thinks this doesn't affect the tub because he waits until his sweat dries  ).  He has short hair, but he runs his fingers through it like he's washing it.  I don't care if he does that, don't get me wrong, I want him to enjoy the tub however he wants to enjoy it, but I also want to soak in crystal clear water, and I think this may be clouding the water prematurely.  So bottom line, can I shock it every 3-4 days if the water gets cloudy?  I have not tested the chlorine at home, my dealer gave me strips with the tub that only test TA, pH and copper (my TA is currently 40, pH 7.2, and a small amt of copper).  I will be buying some test strips to test the chlorine this weekend when I can make it back up to the dealer so I can see where the chlorine level is at. 

Also, with the ozone system, do I need to be adding bromine or chlorine daily or after each use?  What the dealer told me when I first got the tub (6 weeks ago) was to put in the algicide when I first filled it, soak in it, then shock it after.  That's it.  No other instruction about chemicals.  Of course, I called her constantly with questions, but she seems to be under the impression that people go too far overboard with the chemicals and never really gave me a clear answer as to what a routine should be, just more of a "well, you could try an enzyme if you want, or a clarifier".  So I am sort of left scratching my head, between her and my boyfriend who I think is basing all of his advice on how his family cared for their swimming pool. 

 I am in love with my hot tub (LA HEET), and just want to soak in a safe tub with crystal clean water.  Any thoughts? suggestions?

[Bonibelle]

they had you put in algaecide? First you need to know that the tub is not a swimming pool. The warm water in the tub allows for the growth of bacteria at a much much more rapid rate. This is compounded by the fact that the volume of water is a fraction of that in a pool.  So start by getting your water straightened out and decide which chemical sanitizer you would like to use. You should also know that whatever your boyfriend uses in his hair (or even if it is oily or dirty) is going into the water to cause imbalance, cloudiness and will require you to clean your tub much sooner. The sweat? Yeah, that too....While you are in the tub, you sweat anyway. You don't notice it because you are in water, but you are sweating. But going in after a work out will also introduce a lot of body oil and bacteria into your tub. If you don't sanitize properly, you will have major issues.

Are you using bromine or dichlor?  You really can't do anything without being able to test your water and first balance it.  I hope you are just misunderstanding your dealer and that you didn't buy a tub from someone who offers so little support..or knowledge..

[NurseN2000]

Actually, the product she had me put in initially is called Rainforest Blue, and it's a bactericide and algaecide.  I've not seen that product discussed on these forums, so I guess I'm not really sure what to do with it...the directions just say to get my TA and pH in the recommended ranges, then add that to maintain a copper level of 0.3-0.6, and then to shock.  Soooo... how does that fit in with bromine/chlorine maintenance? or is it even necessary to use them if I use this product, aside from weekly shocking?  My dealer was extremely helpful when I first got tub, don't get me wrong, I feel very comfortable with her knowledge level; She helped me immensely whenever I called her. I probably just didn't know exactly what questions TO ask and I suppose I  felt I had a handle on the chemicals and stopped calling  her after a few weeks.  I've had my water tested (at a local spa & pool shop nearer to my home) and all my levels were in the appropriate ranges, including chlorine at that time.  I think the issue is that we use it so heavily so my question remains, can I shock it more than once a week if it gets cloudy sooner?  Of course, I guess that will depend on checking it with test strips that read chlorine.  I get it about the "it's NOT a pool", I do know that hot tubs grow bacteria easier due to the heated water.  I am totally fine with ignoring my boyfriends suggestions on spa care (since he's basing it on his knowledge of swimming pool care lol), but I'm also not going to tell him that he can't enjoy the hot tub the way he wants; if I did that I'd probably end up just sitting in it alone, and then I won't be enjoying it as much.  So I'm fine with cleaning up the water as needed, I just don't want to overdo the chemicals .

[Bonibelle]

Ok, well, lets see if someone on here is familiar with  Rainforest Blue.. I guess I was just pointing out that your boyfriend may be causing the cloudiness ...(rather than a contamination problem from bacteria)..in which case, shock wouldn't help. Just curious, does you water have a green/blue hue?  You say you are measuring copper, so I am curious.

[NurseN2000]

Oh, I'm quite sure he is causing it, even though he doesn't think so lol.  Whether cloudy or crystal clear, there is no tint to my water at all, just the natural color of water. I have a very light color spa (sterling silver) so I can really see the color of the water and love how clean it looks (and the way the led lights glow in the dark!).   I'm only measuring copper because it is on my test strips given to me by the dealer, and now that I've gone back and read that rain forest blue label it says to "balance total alkalinity and pH as necessary, and apply 3 tsp per 250gal of spa water to yield 0.6-0.8 ppm copper".  I guess now I see that's why she gave me those particular strips.  It's a little hard to read the copper level, because the shades of pinkish-violet are all so close, but I'm gonna say it looks right around 0.6+ ppm.  I think I'll call my dealer tomorrow and review the routine maintenance with her using the Rain Forest Blue, because I must have missed something she told me. 

I think I just have never heard of anyone else using this on these forums, they always talk about bromine and chlorine, so I just assumed that I should be using those also.  Maybe if I use this product I don't need to use those except to shock weekly?  I'll let you know what the dealer says

[wmccall]

Since your a nurse you can probably slap  your boyfriend upside the head and call it "shock therapy".  Instead of a shock, perhaps try a clarifier, but if you use one of those, rinse your filter when it clears as that is where it all goes.

[Chas]

I tell people to keep it simple, but keep it clean too!

1.Always balance water first: pH and TA. Easily done with 'spa up' or 'spa down.'
2.Keep the ozone and silver ion working for you: be sure you see the normal bubbles or normal water flow. If they stop, immediately find out why and fix it. Usually is nothing more than a dirty filter.  A Silver Ion cart(Nature2 or Spa Frog) is a good for four months, then replace. That's a good interval for water change too. If you don't have both of these, then you must add chlorine after every use.
3.Add something every time you use the spa. Every time. If you have ozone and a mineral purifier, then add MPS. Put it in as you get out, let the jets run for ten minutes with the lid open. It will be gone in minutes, leaving clear water. But you have to add it every single time you use the tub.
4.Shock once a month, more if you need. Use the Dichlor for this - it is the 'big gun' and works well to keep things clear.

 

[Spatech_tuo]

I tell people to keep it simple, but keep it clean too!

1.Always balance water first: pH and TA. Easily done with 'spa up' or 'spa down.'
2.Keep the ozone and silver ion working for you: be sure you see the normal bubbles or normal water flow. If they stop, immediately find out why and fix it. Usually is nothing more than a dirty filter.  A Silver Ion cart(Nature2 or Spa Frog) is a good for four months, then replace. That's a good interval for water change too. If you don't have both of these, then you must add chlorine after every use.
3.Add something every time you use the spa. Every time. If you have ozone and a mineral purifier, then add MPS. Put it in as you get out, let the jets run for ten minutes with the lid open. It will be gone in minutes, leaving clear water. But you have to add it every single time you use the tub.
4.Shock once a month, more if you need. Use the Dichlor for this - it is the 'big gun' and works well to keep things clear.

 

Well said but for #3 I use a little ganular chlorine after each use (like 1 teaspoon per person) instead of MPS. It does a much better job and as noted it dissipates very quickly anyway so I'll skip the MPS and use the dichlor instead. Its gone before I get in the next time.

[Waterbug]

Ok, well, lets see if someone on here is familiar with  Rainforest Blue.. I guess I was just pointing out that your boyfriend may be causing the cloudiness ...(rather than a contamination problem from bacteria)..in which case, shock wouldn't help. Just curious, does you water have a green/blue hue?  You say you are measuring copper, so I am curious.

Here is a link for info on Rainforest Blue:   

http://www.pacificsandsinc.com/html/rainforest_blue.html

    My guess is that it is a copper based algicide/bactericide.  The copper level test strips would be necessary to ensure that the copper level don't become excessive.  Unlike chlorine or bromine, copper does not evaporate/disperse. 
    I'd personally drain the tub and stick to a chlorine or bromine based regimen

[Bonibelle]

One advantage (if you want to look at it that way) is that you can get virtually unlimited support here for the other methods of sanitization.   

[Waterbug]

  Since my last post, I've been doing a little thinking.  (That can be bad.   ).  If Rainforest Blue is copper based, it would produce free copper ions.  Adding chlorine to a copper ion solution would result in Cupric-Chloride.  In other words, the free ions would combine becoming inert.  It's been over 45 years since I took college chemestry, so I could be wrong on this.  If I'm right, the two sanitizers are cancelling each other out.

[Spatech_tuo]

  Since my last post, I've been doing a little thinking.  (That can be bad.   ).  If Rainforest Blue is copper based, it would produce free copper ions.  Adding chlorine to a copper ion solution would result in Cupric-Chloride.  In other words, the free ions would combine becoming inert.  It's been over 45 years since I took college chemestry, so I could be wrong on this.  If I'm right, the two sanitizers are cancelling each other out.

I would drain the spa and go to a chlorine based system. It will save you time, money and work much better IMO. 

[Bonibelle]

That was why I was asking about the color of your water...Sometimes the old tried and true methods are the way to go..at least for a start.  When you get the hang of it, maybe then experiment with other methods  

[TwinCitiesHotSpring]

Ok, well, lets see if someone on here is familiar with  Rainforest Blue.. I guess I was just pointing out that your boyfriend may be causing the cloudiness ...(rather than a contamination problem from bacteria)..in which case, shock wouldn't help. Just curious, does you water have a green/blue hue?  You say you are measuring copper, so I am curious.

Here is a link for info on Rainforest Blue:   

http://www.pacificsandsinc.com/html/rainforest_blue.html

    My guess is that it is a copper based algicide/bactericide.  The copper level test strips would be necessary to ensure that the copper level don't become excessive.  Unlike chlorine or bromine, copper does not evaporate/disperse. 
    I'd personally drain the tub and stick to a chlorine or bromine based regimen

*cringe* like spatech said, drain and go chlorine...cheap, easy, effective

[ndabunka]

The "cloudiness" may be due to your boyfriends habits AND the method of treatment.  RainForest Blue might be a good method...for some but others may benefit from a more "traditional" approach.  I am with the others.  Drain and refill using only di-chlor after each use (about a small capfull (1-2 tbsps) each time.

However, the condition of the water may actually be more directly related to your hair care habits rather than his workout routines.  Believe it or not, the hair product women typically employ can reek havoc with water treatment methods.  Conditioner is particularly troublesome.  If you (or he) washes your hair daily and use a conditioner or any type of gel to hold your hair, your compounding the problems.  Some have tried to use less conditioner, or keep their hair out of the water or even to shower out the hair products BEFORE getting into the tub

Lastly - The RainForest Blue site states that you can "benefit" by using it in conjunction with the EcoONE water management system.  I've seen these statements before and often wondered...WHY?  In some cases, I think that you probably NEED to use BOTH systems in that tub in order to maintain water quality.  My one question to the salesperson pushing the products would be "How would I KNOW if I needed both systems?  What EXACTLY is one to look out for in order to determine if adding EcoONE to the process is REQUIRED?"  If the answer comes back 'If in doubt, do both", I'd call BS on it.  This isn't snake oil.  You either need it or...you don't need it.  There HAS to be some type of empirical way to determine the requirements.  So, the last question is....Do you also currently run the EcoONE system in conjunction with the PacificBlue?  If not, why not and if they want you to spend more $$$'s on both products you might want to understand the costs differences of those programs vs. the older "2 tbsp of Di-Cholr after each dip.  Di-Chlor probably runs me about $80/year and doesn't leave any chlorine smell in the pool (because it dissipates overnight)