Author Topic: Help with my multimeter readings (Read 12658 times)

tex912 · « **on:** August 23, 2011, 03:25:31 pm »

I just tested my flo switch and got a 0 with the pumps off and a 1.0 with the circ pump running. My multi meter does not have a beep for good circuit and the ohm dial was set at 200. Are these readings good or is this switch shot. I Tested it because I got an FL1 code.

Hot Tub Forum · « **on:** August 23, 2011, 03:25:31 pm »

JulieMor · « **Reply #1 on:** August 23, 2011, 05:58:59 pm »

What does the FL1 code mean?
What brand of multi-meter do you have?
Is is digital or analog?
Do you have a wiring schematic?

tex912 · « **Reply #2 on:** August 23, 2011, 08:04:25 pm »

Hi JulieMor. Thanks for answering. I have a 2003 Sundance/Sweetwater Palermo. FL1 is a no flow code and is for a dirty filter. Flow switch is malfunctioning open. Air lock condition at circ pump intake. Heater deactivated. I have a cheap Cen-Tech digital multimeter w/no beep/tone. I do have a schematic if needed.


   The fl1 code seems to only come on when the tub is heating. When it does, it shuts down the tub until for about an hour, then everything works again.
   I installed a new filter, and made sure there were no air bubbles. I am trying to rule out the flow switch but all this talk of continuity and infinate resistance is driving me crazy. I tested the switch leads with circ pump running and off. The meter was set on ohms at 200 and registered 0 with the pumps off and no flow, and 1.0 with the tub running and flow. I also rechecked after the fl1 code appeared and both tests were the same. I also tried changing the setting on the meter to 2000, 20K, 200K and 2000K but no different readings.

   Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Dr. Spa� Ret. · « **Reply #3 on:** August 23, 2011, 08:38:32 pm »

If you touch the two leads of the meter together do you also get a reading of 1.0? If so, the flo switch is probably good.

tex912 · « **Reply #4 on:** August 23, 2011, 08:49:15 pm »

On the 200 setting I get a 1 with the leads touching. So switch is probably good. Filter is new. I can rest my hand on the circ pump and it is just slightly warm. After reading many articles here I assume it is good. What would the next step be? Should I try cleaning pump and heater w/vinigar. Possibly build up causing flow issues?

tex912 · « **Reply #5 on:** August 24, 2011, 10:22:08 pm »

Well. I disconnected the circ pump hose just before entering the tub and just after the heater tub and filled w/vinigar. Let sit over night and flushed out. Reconnected everything and blew out the bubbles and still got fl1 flashing w/temp.

I hate to buy a new board if its something else. Anyone have any suggestions?

Jacuzzi Jim · « **Reply #6 on:** August 25, 2011, 07:59:22 pm »

90% chance it's a bad flow switch. You could cut and jump the two wire together and see if the FL1 clears.

tex912 · « **Reply #7 on:** August 26, 2011, 07:00:43 pm »

Thanks Jim but I already jumped it w/a piece of wire. I guess Im down to the heater or the control board. I'm really leaning towards the control board. I noticed that when I just leave it alone, the FL1 goes away after a while but then comes back on again later. I think its only when the heater is on. Like the heater is not getting enough flow and shutting down the system.

I was at the spa store picking their brains and one of the guys there said I am supposed to flush the system w/some kind of system cleaner once a year to get rid of any build up in the lines. I've had this tub since 2003 and have never done this or even heard of this. Costs about 20bucks and he said I just dump it in the hot tub, let the system run for a bit, then shut off for 24 hours. What do you guys think. Bunch of bull or is this something everyone does? I change the water every 6months but really dont use it much in the summer, so I change it in the early spring and late fall so I have nice water in the winter.

stuart · « **Reply #8 on:** August 26, 2011, 08:20:28 pm »

Don't jump the flow switch until you turn the spa off and then back on...the system should look for an open switch at start up and then closed as the pump begins to run.

tex912 · « **Reply #9 on:** August 27, 2011, 09:00:35 am »

At what point in the start up should I jump it. This is what it does.
I shut it off, then turned it on. The display goes thru its start up.... 345....888 both with the heater light on, then the temp comes on and.....nothing. FL1 alternating with temp. Sometimes I hear a click down there by the board or maybe the pump but nothing. . If I leave it sit for a while it fixes itself. I ran the tub last night several times and then when I finally got in it thinking it was ok ... with all the pumps running it just shut off and got the fl1 and this after at least 4 jet cycles.

Jacuzzi Jim · « **Reply #10 on:** August 27, 2011, 04:40:39 pm »

Really a strange one. The heater itself cannot give the flo error. The only thing that causes flo1 is a bad circ pump, clogged filter and a bad flow switch which will usually give a flo2 error have you checked the connection on the circuit board itself? If those are loose you may be getting intermittent contact where sometimes its working sometimes not.

tex912 · « **Reply #11 on:** August 28, 2011, 05:10:55 pm »

Yes jim. I have had it unhooked and hooked back up, jumped and checked. Im thinking circuit board as soon as i can afford it.

tex912 · « **Reply #12 on:** August 28, 2011, 06:54:14 pm »

Ok Jim.
I was just out screwing with the tub again because the fl1 came on. I shut the tub off and jumped the flow switch w/a wire, turned it on and got fl2. so i unplugged my jumper wire and it went back to fl1. I plugged it back in and the fl1 went away but could not use any buttons, ie jets or light. With the jumper wire still attached and the temp at 102 I set the heat to 104 and the heater came on but no circ pump so pulled the jumper wire and it shut off and got fl1 again.

Come on all you spa guru's. Whats up with this tub? Is it the circ pump? The circuit board or the flow switch?

tex912 · « **Reply #13 on:** August 28, 2011, 07:24:29 pm »

Anybody know a good inexspensive spa tech in the nw indiana area. Im in demotte.

clover · « **Reply #14 on:** August 29, 2011, 10:34:22 am »

Understanding the purpose of the flow switch and how it works. It's protect the heater from coming on without adequate water flow and prevents the heater from "dry firing". A serviceman would be there and gone in 30 minutes after evaluating the flow switch in this manner.

There are 2 messages:

1) "flashing flo" means the flow switch did not close and disables the heater. Correct adequate water flow. Check the plastic screen in the filter bay after removing the filter for leaves, plastic, etc that could restrict water flow. I will commonly find leaves or candy wrappers.

2) "solid flo" indicate the switch did NOT OPEN properly when the system shut down, upon start up "solid flo" recognizes a switch that "did not open" and everything becomes disabled. Solution, replace flow switch.

Best way to analyze, power down, pull the sensor loom out and put it back in, the circuit board now recognizes the switch opened and when it starts up you can see the fingers close in the transparent fitting and all functions work. Another way is to use your meter to measure resistance of the switch which should be infinity, or open. If it shows any resistance, replace it.

Flashing flow is either a bad circ pump, or inadequate water flow caused by dirty filter, obstruction, or something sucked in when the filter was removed during operation.

Hot Tub Forum · « **Reply #14 on:** August 29, 2011, 10:34:22 am »

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