Help with Repairing Crack in Hot Tub Shell

[knightcap]

I have a two year old hot tub, typical acrylic shell.  I have a crack in the shell, about 1.5 inches long and about the width of a finger nail.  Water is leaking through it.  I tried to repair it using some Plumbers Epoxy Putty from Home Depot, but it didn't work -- water still leaks, and it never really cured, as I can pick it out with a knife.

Dealer is no help -- says the manaufacturer went out of business, so my 10 year warranty is no good, and the dealer won't help -- Prestige Pools in St. Louis.  Stay away from them!

Can anyone suggest a product or a method to repair this?  I see a lot of products on the Internet -- anyone have any experience with any of them?  Thanks for your help!

[Chas]

Well, first, if this is an acrylic shell backed with fiberglass, then the crack should not be leaking. What most folk don't realize is that the acrylic shell in their fiberglass-backed spa is often quite permeable, and the fiberglass is what holds the water.

So, I would look for another source of your leak. And easy way to tell - empty and dry the area. Clean out any of the first repair materials. Cover with a high-quality packing tape if you have a glossy surface, or some silicone if it is textured. Seal it good, but realize this is just for troubleshooting and not a fix. Fill the tub and see if she still leaks.

Now, if this tub is not fiberglass-backed, then the crack is most likely leaking. I would put an epoxy fiberglass patch on the back, and then use and acrylic surface patch on the inside to seal it up.

 8-)

[knightcap]

Thanks for the reply and the tips.  I have gone under the hot tub, and peeled off some of the sprayed on insulation.  I am pretty sure that I can see the water coming through the shell.

How do I know if I have a fiberglass backing?  The tub is the Alexa model, made by Outback.  I think it is a lower end brand made by Hot Springs?

Finally, if I follow your suggestion and do a temporary repair with silicone caulk (it is a textured surface), how will I be able to get the silicone caulk out later to do the real repair?  Won't that be difficult?

[Chas]

Do not use caulk. Use 100% silicone. It is sold here as tub and tile sealant, or even adhesive.

Caulk will wash right out as soon as you fill the tub, so don't use any product with the word caulk on the label.

If you have a dealer who sells that brand, I would ask them about the construction of the tub. If it is made by HotSpring, it is not a name I am familiar with - they don't sell those here in the US.

If you peeled off insulation and saw a smooth surface, it is most likely not fiberglass.

 8-)

[Chas]

Is this your tub?

 8-)

[knightcap]

Yes, that is my tub!  However, mine is not solid blue -- it is king of blue/grey speckled, not a smooth finish.

[BauerN]

Well, first, if this is an acrylic shell backed with fiberglass, then the crack should not be leaking. What most folk don't realize is that the acrylic shell in their fiberglass-backed spa is often quite permeable, and the fiberglass is what holds the water.

Actually, acrylic is non-porous.  One of the big advantages (in baths, spas, and kitchen couters) is the resistance to the development of mold and mildew.  This is also why it is impossible for bacteria to form within the material (acrylic layer).

For more info:

http://www.aristechacrylics.com/spas/

[Dr. Spa™ Ret.]

Actually, acrylic is non-porous, but only in it's original manufactured form, of a flat sheet. Once it's heated, then vacuum formed into a mold, it becomes porous. QUITE porous.

As for the impossibility for bacteria to grow, this is also untrue. Small scratches can harbor bacteria and the scratches can be too small for sanitizer to enter to kill the bacteria (of course once the bacteria exits the scratch it get killed). This has all been proven by scientific testing done on a wide variety of cutting boards and published in the early 90's in SClENCE NEWS.

[BauerN]

Could you please provide link(s) supporting that information?

I'd love a chance to study it more in-depth.

Thanks in advance.

[Dr. Spa™ Ret.]

Sorry, no got no more. Actually, I'm not even sure it was ever online. Early 90's? Online?

[BauerN]

Does that mean you are unable to provide documented third party support for your claims?

I just went back to Aristech's site - the non-porous claim applies to cast acrylics (i.e. spas).  

If there is a lack of support for the claim that acrylic is permeable, it looks to me like Aristech would be the authority on the issue.  

[JLOCO123]

hi

where are you located, maybe i will be helpfull i gott some experience on acrilic repair let me know

[stuart]

There are several places to get a repair kit but first you have to address the crack. If you could take pictures of it and post them or email me with them I can help more.

I'm currently writing a article on this so it's a good time for me to walk through it.

1. drill stop the crack on both ends with a small drill bit

2. if you can get to the back of the shell (even if you have to dig foam and move frame pieces) you need to get a fiberglass repair kit from Lowes or home depot and do a strength patch on the back of the shell

3. use a dremmel tool to grind the crack into a "V" that you can fill and then begin your fill process. If this is only acrylic without fiberglass backing you only need to use one material, if it has backing you might need to use a filler.

here are some links to acrylic repair products....
http://www.acrylicrepair.com/
http://www.multitechproducts.com/main.php

I use the Multi Tech and it works well but all of this takes some skill, you might want to contact a bath repair place to do it unless you have some art skill about you.
There is a lot more to this including texturing and the surface finish however I will go over that only if you are looking to do it yourself.

Bottom line is it really depends on how far you want to go and how good you want it to look. If you don't care about the crack showing than your options increase quite a bit.

If you do this yourself you will want to buy a solvent from Home Depot call MEK to do the clean up and texturing but be sure to wear gloves and mask. This is known to cause cancer and I'm not so sure it didn't have something to do with my getting Kidney cancer this last year.

Finally you might research this a bit more,  if it is truly a Watkins product you might be able to call them and see if they can help with it.

[Dr. Spa™ Ret.]

Does that mean you are unable to provide documented third party support for your claims?

 

Early 90's SClENCE NEWS magazine published the study. I believe it was 1993...... I don't believe it is or was ever online, someone sent me a photocopy of the article years ago. Go dig it up if you want. I don't have the need or desire to  

[Chas]

I will vouch for the fact that acrylic, in the finished form of a hot tub is porous. Ask any repairman who has dealt with 'cobalting,' or 'blisters,' or other problems in the surface of a tub.

The plastic sheet, as it ships from the plastic maker, is very non-porous, but that ends with the stretching and forming in the vacuum mold machine.

 8-)