Hot tub not working after neighborhood power outage

[Dollburger]

A few days ago our neighborhood had a power outage for a few hours. We hadn't used our hottub since then and last night I realized the water was cold (probably 70s) when we went to use it. The display had the "OHS" warning flashing on the display. It's a Marquis Euphoria circa 2004ish with at least one pump around 2 years old. I last drained it

I reset the breaker, and while the display and lights work, the pumps won't turn on. When I push the pump button there's a click coming from the tub's electrical box (unsure of what it's called) but nothing else. I also noticed that the "test" button on the breaker isn't actually tripping the breaker.

I don't own a voltmeter but I can pick one up tonight. I have only lived in this house a few years and we haven't had any issues with the tub so far, so I'm not the best at troubleshooting. I have a feeling it might be something simple that I could fix myself, and the earliest I can get a tech to come look at it is over 2 weeks out. Any help/troubleshooting suggestions you may have would be much appreciated!

[bud16415]

What was the cause of the power outage? If lighting hit around you or something or you had a major shorting of power it could be different than a controlled shutting off of the power.

Be advised testing of power and working behind the panel of even your GFCI breaker disconnect can be a hazard. You should have a breaker in your main panel in your home that is dedicated to the tub and then out near the tub the GFCI. When you push the test button it should trip the GFCI and then you will need to reset it. You said the test button is not doing that now?

That would be an indication the GFCI isn’t working.   

[Dollburger]

Thank you for the help!

I’m not sure why the power went out, but we heard a bang that sounded like a transformer blowing somewhere in the neighborhood. I figured a squirrel got a bit too close.

The GFCI outside should be the one tripping, right? I don’t see a reset button on it but nothing seems to happen when I push the button and I don’t need to reset the switches.

If it’s the case of a broken GFCI then I’m guessing I should be getting an electrician instead of a hot tub repair person? The tub has power, but from what I can find maybe it’s just getting 120v instead of 240?  At least if that’s the issue I shouldn’t have a 3 week delay.

[bud16415]

The first thing i would try is turning the GFCI breaker (the one near the tub) off and then back on. Not by pushing the test button but by flipping them like you would a normal breaker.

Then the test button should work, but take a look to see if the tub came back on first. When these GFCI trip they need to be reset by fully making sure they are opened and then closing them.

They should be tested with the test button once a month.

[Dollburger]

The tub does come back on, but not the pumps (just the same clicking). Test button doesn’t work either.

[bud16415]

The clicking is the relay/motor starter trying to turn the pump on. I don’t know for sure how your tub works but most I think have the lights and the controller powered off one side of the 240v or 120v. the pumps and heater would be wired to the full 240v source and controlled with some sort of relays.

You could have lost half / one leg of your 240v, and if the GFCI is not testing that would be likely IMO what got hit with the surge that took the neighborhood out.

If you had a tester and felt comfortable checking it I would test the incoming power to it and you should see around 120v from each leg to ground/common so red to white and black to white. Red and black will be the hot legs. Then checking between red and black you should see 240v or there about. After you check the input side you do the same thing to the output side of the GFCI. If you get the same readings then the GFCI is ok. Then you would open the tub and verify the other end of those same wires have power in the same way.

If you rule all that out you know the problem is in the tub. at that point it could have fried something in the controller etc.

Again I’m a mod in a home improvement forum and we are always careful offering live testing unless you are sure you are familiar with the way your meter works and feel comfortable doing it. Most people have a friend, family, neighbor that has some training they can ask to help them test voltages etc.

[Dollburger]

Thank you!

I took your advice and didn't do the testing myself - I haven't really done much with electrical work since high school so I had an electrical engineer friend come help.

Even though the "test" button isn't working, he did confirm that I have 240v coming into the control box. He unplugged one of the motors to test that part as well, and confirmed that I am not getting 240v going to the pump, so I'm assuming there's an issue somewhere on the board? The fuses on the board that we could see were in working order.

I'm guessing at this point I'm out of ideas to try myself, but if you do have any other tips or things to try I'd appreciate it!

[bud16415]

Sounds like when you got that power surge when the transformer blew it caused some damage to the electronics in one of the controllers. That’s where most homeowners ability to figure out a problem ends. I’m sure your electrical engineer friend also confirmed that.

If he said you have 240V going to the pump though the pump should be running so possibly the motor is shot. The systems are all interconnected back thru the controller, so say the heater needs to know the pump is running in order to turn on. Talk that over with him and see what he thinks.

Otherwise it is a call to the serviceman. If you are like me you will watch the guy fix it and then say that was easy I could have done that myself.   

[Dollburger]

Thanks!

He did confirm 240 coming to the board, but not to the pumps. I have an appointment for the 6th so I guess I’ll wait and see what happens. Hope it isn’t the pumps they were replaced when we bought the house.