Chemical Confusion

[Beezer]

Greetings Forum Friends,

I am the proud owner of a Caldera Niagra and I changed the water 24 hours after the install to prevent problems down the road. Well you guessed it, I am frustrated with the chems...surprise right

I have a couple of questions that I would like to toss out to the guru's on the forum.
Let me start by saying my dealer set me up with the Proteam Chemical package and Nature's 2 cartridge and I use city water. The first is the dealer told me to add a tablespoon of ZIPCHLOR and SHOCK every other day and to BROADCAST it into the tub. The second is the test strips he provided in the starter kit have constantly indicated all values are on the low side of the scale. I have cleaned the filter every month and the strips are still showing Alk down, Bromine down , PH down, etc.
I have added PH UP and maintained the regiment of Zip Chlor and Shock..still FU

My first question is I thought I am suppose to add the chemicals directly into the filter compartment not spread in tub? The second is more complex and relates to the readings on the test strip and how accurate they are? I have added only Proteam chemicals and I can't seem to get the levels in the mid range or above for that matter. When I read about chemicalls in use on the forum the termanology is not relating well, Diclor is Zip Clor? Shock is used everday? Bromine is increased by ? Am I adding too often or is testing flawed?

Anybody have any feedback on Proteam Chemicals or an easier testing method...what about the Aqua Chek digital or is it just another bell and whistle?

[In Canada eh]

Beezer,

  Test strips can be inconsistent with thier readings, do yourself a favour and buy a Taylor kit

You  can find one herehttp://www.rhtubs.com/store/directory.htm, prices are good and Doc is a regular poster on this forum.

Are you using chlorine or bromine in your tub

[Vinny]

I can't speak about proteam specifically but here's the lowdown on chems.

Measure your PH, Alkalinity and Calcium out of the tap. Have your water analyzed for metals.

Get your PH to 7.2 to 7.6 (OK if 7. and alkalinity to 80 to 120. If you have low PH and high alkalinity or vice versa you need to get one in line (I believe alkinity first) and then the other. Calcium at about 200 - if you have hard water I believe there's something you can add to the water. If you have metals - something like metal gone.

For adjusting PH and alkalinity up together use baking soda. I use PH down to lower them.

Broadcasting with ALL the jets on is the best way to do it IMO. Testing anything but the chlorine should be done hours after adding not minutes.

For treating the spa - use enough chlorine to achieve a 3 PPM residue 20 minutes after adding. Is this ZIPCHLOR chlorine or is it 0 chlorine? If it is 0 chlorine is the shock chlorine? Size of tub, number of people or cleanliness of people will have an effect on how much chlorine you will need to add. Shocking the tub can be achieved either with a non chlorine shock or adding  enough chlorine to get 10x whatever the combined chlorine amount is. Combined chlorine is the difference of the free chlorine and total chlorine (CC=TC-FC). If the strips don't test both then you need other strips or a test kit.

[RK23]

Beezer,

I too have a new Niagara and also have had chem issues (surely not related to the model of tub).  Thanks to advice on the forum, I visited the above mentioned RHTUBS.com and purchased the Taylor K-2005 for about $50.  Best money I ever spent!  It takes a couple times to get used to the process, but I now know exactly what my issues are, instead of guessing based on the strips.

Good luck!

-Russ

[Beezer]

Thanks for the replies folks, here is what I could find out on the 2) major chems I am using;

ProTeam Spa Shock=Fast-acting, pH neutral shock removes organic wastes and refreshes water. Contains added clarifiers for sparkling clear water. It oxidizes organic contaminants, formulated pH neutral and will not raise calcium or cyanurate levels.

ProTeam Zip Chlor= Chlorinating concentrate. Dissolves immediately. Will not cloud water or cause scale. It's 62% available chlorine, buffered to 6.0 pH, stabilized chlorine and quick dissolving granular particles

I don't want to have to become a chemist to maintain my spa, please stop me if I am wrong on this but isn't the Taylor kit one of those ones that you take a half dozen samples and add the drops to determine the color that determines the balance? If the test strips leave alot to be desired in eliminating the guess work what is better on the Taylor kit? Is there anyone who used a kit and then switched to the digital reader from Aqua Check that can give a testimonial? It just seems to me that a digital reading is far more accurate than a color chart?

I appreciate all the advice that people offer since this is new to me and I especially value the not for profit advice that comes from the real people on this forum.

Thanks again for everyone's help  

[Cyn]

With the Talor Kit, you take a single sample for what you are testing.  Fill tube to stated level, add drops for what you are testing, mix, and read color of sample against the color chart on the tube for FC, TC and pH.  For TA, you add drops until there is a color change and that is the hardest one for me to actually know when the change is as described in the instructions.  One drop will change the color from green to grey, then next drop is a more red-gray and then a hot pink and then maybe a red color.  And that is a huge difference in TA reading since each added drop of chemical is 10 for your total alk score:  5 drops is 50 ppm and 8 drops is 80ppm.  They say the final color is red...but what color of red?   :-/  But the FC, TC and pH are easier to read the color variations against the sample than the strips.  My strips, especially in the 'correct' zone are very, very close to the same color.  With the Taylor kit, you look into a bright light or put a white backgroud behind the tester and you can see where the color lies quite easily.  I have felt at times like the Taylor kit encourages micromanagement of the water and everone on this forum says to be sure and NOT micromanage.  So maybe not being able to really tell the exact ppm is the better route!!  I don't remember what others have said about the digital, but I vaguely remember there being some of the same issues.  

[windsurfdog]

I have felt at times like the Taylor kit encourages micromanagement of the water and everone on this forum says to be sure and NOT micromanage.  So maybe not being able to really tell the exact ppm is the better route!!

Micromanagement really is not a side effect of the measuring instrument at all.  Knowing accurately where you are and following the suggested additions as noted by the Taylor booklet and, here's the important part, not even thinking of checking it again for a week will help you keep your water well balanced and easy to maintain.

Seeing the exact ppm is very important.  Trying to adjust to an exact ppm is not.

[Cyn]

Seeing the exact ppm is very important.  Trying to adjust to an exact ppm is not.

I see your point.  But I do believe that seeing an exact ppm leads some of us to try to keep it exactly in the range of what is considered normal.  But if your colors are a bit fuzzy, as they are on the sticks, you may actually be at a point that is slightly above the suggested range, but never know it and it won't hurt to leave the water alone.  And, just knowing you might not have an exact reading means leave it alone.  I have adjusted my water using the Taylor kit and another time used the kit and gotten that same reading, then I used the sticks (2 different types, even) and found that I was most certainly within the suggested level on the sticks and so I left well enough alone and in the long run the water stayed within range longer (always using the Taylor as a back up to test my method).  Yes, there could be a number of reasons for this other than my not adding any chems, but we tend to be steady users with just the 2 of us.  Seems to me new tubbers have the tendancy to over check their water to begin with and they want exact numbers out of fear.  And the long timers always tell the new guys (and I am guilty of this as well) to run out and get a kit so that WE know what their exact numbers are so we can help them with their water problem!!  Then when we all settle into a use pattern and realize we most likely won't poison ourselves, the Taylor kit is great, but not a must.  

[RK23]

If your lucky enough to have go your first 3-4 months and not have any big issues, you will probably be ok with strips.  I'd say start with strips, don't micromanage, see how you do.  If you struggle to keep clean, clear water, the Taylor Kit will become more appealing.

[Beezer]

I am all for the once a week test ! The thing that bugs me is the damn strips are not prescise and my dealer's instructions seem to be geared for chemical sales. :-/ They insist that I should toss in a tablespoon of both Zip Chlor and Shock every other day with testing between days regardless of use. Like I have nothing else to do  

My goal is to be safe and not damage my equipment, the anal retentive part of me would like to mico-manage the chems but luckily my mismanagement of time prevents it.

I appreciate the advice and unless someone steps up to truly justify the Taylor or Digital kit, I may just try another type of test strip brand before I shell out $50 bucks for one of the above kits. Can anyone recomend a test strip that seems to be easier to read?