heat wont come on

[splendid1319]

Our hot tub was working perfectly then it felt a little cool, I tried to turn the heat up but I got nothing.  It is a Cal Spa- there are four control buttons on the edge - Heat Pump-Light-Air Blower-Booster Pump.  

Nothing happpens anymore when I push the Heat Pump button.  I can hear the thermostat click when I turn the temp dial in the cabinet.  
I still have low speed on my pump to circulate the water but I can't figure out, is it a heat problem or a pump problem that is making the heater not work.

Help if you can...I very much appreciate it!

[Micah]

The first thing i would check is the filter. If its dirty the spa wont heat. Take it out to clean it and while its out see if the heater kicks on. If it does, the filter is the problem. If it dosent, Call for a service man.

[Brewman]

Wouldn't filters clogged to a point where the heat won't kick on cause a FLO error, or something?  
Does your panel show any error codes (assuming it has that capability).

[galen]

If its not the filter then I would look at the relay that is in the heater circuit. It could be the heater element also. I would take a volt meter and read the volts that are present when the tub calls for heat. across the wires that feed the heater. Locate the heater and then the two large wires that go to the heater but if you don't have a tester and DON'T know much about electrical wiring, stay away from it. Its probably 240 currant and you better know what your doing or else you could kill yourself.

[Drewski]

Hi Splendid1319:

For some reason I get the feeling you have an older tub and the "buttons" you refer to are for air switches? Are they big (about the size of a quarter or half dollar) and depress about 1" when you press them? If this is the case (and based on the description of your heater it probably is), you probably have a tub with mechanical, not digital controls. This means you don't have a panel that can display error codes.

The "click" you are hearing is probably the relay for the heater closing which normally would make it come on. Mounted on the heater (or near it) should also be a pressure switch which will prevent the power going to the heater if low water pressure is present. If this switch fails, it reads “low pressure” and prevents the heater from working. If the filters are clean and you have good flow, I'd consider replacing the pressure switch because these usually go bad and are the culprit in older tubs. This is probably a job for a service technician but you can also DIY if you're not scared of tackling something a little more complex.

Also, PLEASE make certain if you use a voltmeter across the lugs of the heater to test for current that it's RATED for the amount of amperage you're dealing with in the circuit.  At least 10 AMPS is norm, could be as high as 15 or even 20....  The little hobby model dosn't work well for this....

Good Luck!

Drewski

[tonyp]

Hi Splendid1319:

Also, PLEASE make certain if you use a voltmeter across the lugs of the heater to test for current that it's RATED for the amount of amperage you're dealing with in the circuit.  At least 10 AMPS is norm, could be as high as 15 or even 20....  The little hobby model dosn't work well for this....

Since you're measuring voltage the amperage rating of the meter doesn't matter.  Simply measure between the 2 terminals.  (To measure amperage you have to be in series with one of the wires).

However it should be able to measure 120 or 220V  AC depending on the feed to the spa.

[Drewski]

Since you're measuring voltage the amperage rating of the meter doesn't matter.  Simply measure between the 2 terminals.  (To measure amperage you have to be in series with one of the wires).

However it should be able to measure 120 or 220V  AC depending on the feed to the spa.

Ya, if she measured only voltage, that would be the case. But, how can you tell if a heater is working correctly without measuring amps across the lugs?  If she's wired into 220V, she'd read 220 everywhere except where it was reduced by the transformer (for lights, etc.). To tell if the heater is effectively working, she needs to measure current across the lugs.  AND, for THAT, she'd better have a meter that can handle that kind of load.  

Drewski

[Drewski]

Splendid1319:

Does your heater look something like this?



Drewski

[tonyp]

Ya, if she measured only voltage, that would be the case. But, how can you tell if a heater is working correctly without measuring amps across the lugs?  If she's wired into 220V, she'd read 220 everywhere except where it was reduced by the transformer (for lights, etc.). To tell if the heater is effectively working, she needs to measure current across the lugs.  AND, for THAT, she'd better have a meter that can handle that kind of load.  

Drewski

 

In order to measure current (amperage) the meter must be in series with the wiring.  I.E. you must disconnect one of the wires from the heater and put one lead of the meter on the wire and the other on the lug.  Some meters have a different connection for current.  This is not an easy thing for most people to do.  Better to check the voltage only.  If it's not correct, it's probably not the heater.  If it is and there's no hot water coming out and there is water flow it probably is.

[hotubinn]

Ya, if she measured only voltage, that would be the case. But, how can you tell if a heater is working correctly without measuring amps across the lugs?  If she's wired into 220V, she'd read 220 everywhere except where it was reduced by the transformer (for lights, etc.). To tell if the heater is effectively working, she needs to measure current across the lugs.  AND, for THAT, she'd better have a meter that can handle that kind of load.  

Drewski

 

If you read 220 volts at the heater, and it doesn't come up in temp, you my friend have a bad heater.  No need to check amp draw (although it is far easier to test the heater this way, but not something I would reccommend for a novice!)