Water sealing new deck

[luvin_tubin_sqezin]

along this same line, has anyone used any of the synthetic decking products out there for their tubs?  I understand it's about 2x the $$$ but no treating necessary and it's stainable immediately.  The quality has increased over the last few years as well.

Just curious!

TTL...I'm in the same boat as you...decking has not been installed yet and tub should be here in about 3 weeks so may look into the composite stuff or the kiln dried stuff drewstar mentioned.

[drewstar]

The white tag stapled to the ends of the boards might tell you if it's KDAT.

My PT deck was already there when I bought  the house, and was left unstained for several years. It was bleached out and there was severe checking, cracking, warping and slivers in some areas.   I spent 3 days using a very powerful pressure washer to clean the deck and then put 3 coats of stain  on it.  It took me and my wife 3 full days to stain it.  (The toughest part is the railing balasters.   I'm going to have to put another coat on it this year.    



Luvin. tubin:   I'd love to hear about the composites as well.  When (more like "if") I do my decks this would be what I'd want.  I have a few freinds who have used it with excellent results.   There are different grades of it, and not all composites are made the same.  

[Tatooed_Lady]

I'd seriously considered the synthetic stuff.....SOME of it (not all) is a solid deck board, SOME, however, is "reversible" and has hollow cores, from what it looked like at the store....The price, however, was the deciding factor..... approximately $5 per deck board that we've got, or I THINK it was about $2 per linear foot for the synthetic.......Our tub deck cost around $300 in materials, plus we bought a couple extra 2x6x8s for building the step....all said and done around a $350 project that took the better part of 4 days.....
day 1 - dig out sod, try to level as much as possible, lay weed barrier and throw gravel over to hold barrier down, watch husband drink beer.
day 2 - add 1100 pounds of gravel to area to level grade better.....build deck frame, watch husband drink beer.
day 3 - add braces between joists, attach deck boards, watch husband drink beer.
day 4 - build the ($#(%&!$$ step, learn new words when hubby gets all finger tips crunched...watch husband drink much beer. Argue with husband that though the tub deck is level, step isn't....decide argument is non-productive, plan to fix problem while hubby at work in following days....
Basically, it went really well.  

[luvin_tubin_sqezin]

   Very nice!!!

wondering tho ttl, being that this is a hot tub forum and all, couldn't it be that you are "participating in the WETNESS PROTECTION PROGRAM"?

LOL!!!  

[Tatooed_Lady]

"participating in the WETNESS PROTECTION PROGRAM"?

LOL!!!  

if I wore a shirt that said that.......talk about not being able to go out in public!

[Pisces]

along this same line, has anyone used any of the synthetic decking products out there for their tubs?  I understand it's about 2x the $$$ but no treating necessary and it's stainable immediately.  The quality has increased over the last few years as well.

Why in the world would you want to stain a synthetic product? IMHO, lack of maintenance is one of the pluses of synthetic decking. Staining would just start a maintenance cycle. Just wondering.

[Drewski]

Hi 'Lady:

I've built decks out of pressure treated and synthetic stuff, as well as using a variety of treatments. Here's what I've learned:

PT wood is the cheapest and easiest stuff for most DIYers to use. Mistakes are NOT expensive and it's generally "forgiving." I'd recommend finding a SUPPLIER (sawmill or yard that MAKES PT lumber) to buy from, NOT a home center. Most home centers offer only Grade 2 5/4 board for decking, while the supplier offers Grade 1 for a little more. Grade 1 PT 5/4 board has much better surface qualities than Grade 2.

Synthetic stuff is great to use and lasts a LONG time, but a few things. Because synthetic board is primarily plastic, direct sun exposure causes the product to get HOT. This is a consideration if you have high sun exposure on your deck and you want to use it during the day. Also, because plastic expands more than wood, you need to "gap" the boards approximately 1/4," making them not look as "tight" as a wood deck. Remember also that support lumber and timbers are not made from synthetic material, meaning only the top stuff will be synthetic.

To finish PT wood, I'd recommend Flood products available at Lowes and Home Depot.  Better quality Flood products can be found at paint stores.  I'd also recommend waiting 1 year for the wood to "dry" before finishing, but I'd coat it with a UV protector a few weeks after putting it down to prevent UV damage during the first year. UV protectors still allow the moisture to come out of the wood, but protect the surface from damage. You can view Flood's opinion about new wood finishing by clicking here. Flood's wood finishing products are explained here.

A last suggestion about wood vs. synthetic. You can plank a deck in Cedar 5/4 Grade 1 finishing board for about the same cost as synthetic. I'd suggest looking at it instead of synthetic or PT if cost is not an issue.

Here's a picture of the deck system I built on my last house:



Note the area where the hot tub was to the left. This deck was treated 2 times over 4 years with Flood products. It's constructed of PT pine with 5/4 board decking. The step timbers were NOT treated, note the difference in appearance. I've been VERY satisfied with Flood products and highly recommend them. Others may have a different opinion which, of course, I respect...

Good luck!

Drewski

[luvin_tubin_sqezin]

Why in the world would you want to stain a synthetic product? IMHO, lack of maintenance is one of the pluses of synthetic decking. Staining would just start a maintenance cycle. Just wondering.

I'm under the assumption, maybe wrongly so, that the composite stuff could be stained and forgotten.  My deck is 3 levels and the tub is going on the lowest, smallest part.  I figured after I reinforce it, I could use the composite stuff on top, stain it to match the existing decking, and be done with it!!!!  (man, I like the sound of that!)

[RayF-1]

Good advice and wood vs. composite comparison from Drewski .. if you apply sealant/stain to wood product .. don't go for the bargain product .. the few extra $$ per gallon is well worth the better appearance, protection and longevity.

[Drewski]

I'm under the assumption, maybe wrongly so, that the composite stuff could be stained and forgotten.  My deck is 3 levels and the tub is going on the lowest, smallest part.  I figured after I reinforce it, I could use the composite stuff on top, stain it to match the existing decking, and be done with it!!!!  (man, I like the sound of that!)

I'd suggest looking at the product documentation for BOTH the synthetic product and finishing stain to see if it would work and IF they are compatible. Otherwise, it may end up looking like you painted the deck and in less than a month it begins to flake off.  Consider contrasting colors for the synthetic stuff. Check "special order" colors at the home center...

Drewski

[luvin_tubin_sqezin]

 ;DGreat lookin' deck by the way Drewski!

Thanks for the good advice.  

Dave (soon to be tubbin') in Metro Cleveland.

[Drewski]

;DGreat lookin' deck by the way Drewski!

Thanks for the good advice.  

Dave (soon to be tubbin') in Metro Cleveland.

A fellow BROTHER from the rock-and-roll capital of the world??!!!  Grew up in Parma... Valley Forge HS, '81....

Drewski

[Tman122]

All my decks are brown pressure treated under structure and cedar decking and railing. I have better luck with cedar over pressure treated, don't seem to warp or crack as much and it's so easy to work with and the scraps make great kindling for the camp fire.  As far as synthetic. Check out the fade warranty before you purchase. You may end up staining just as much as wood in a few years. I have seen some pretty raunchy synthetic decks, but I hear improvments have been made in the products.

[Tatooed_Lady]

I guess I'm lucky....most of our yard is covered by trees and is in shade 80% of the day...so I guess UV isn't as important to protect against as water, for us.
I'll have to consider options carefully....the only time I have to do all the "home improvements" (yes, visions of Tim Taylor danced in my head as I typed that) is while I'm laid off over winter....and some holiday weekends, which get hectic.