Question for install/repair people

[calilou]

Due to proximity to rear yard fence, I need to build a new sundance spa into the ground so that only 18" are above grade.   I am planning on leaving 30" of open area in the front for access to the front panel (which would be covered by a removable trek cover).

Questions:
1. is 30" sufficient in the front for repair work?
2. should I leave any access to the side panel (in case there are any leaks that need repairing)?   If so, how much space is needed?  Could I get by with 1.5 feet (on just 1 side) or should I just leave 6" extra for when the spa is set into the hole?

Thanks in advance

[Jacuzzi Jim]

Due to proximity to rear yard fence, I need to build a new sundance spa into the ground so that only 18" are above grade.   I am planning on leaving 30" of open area in the front for access to the front panel (which would be covered by a removable trek cover).

Questions:
1. is 30" sufficient in the front for repair work?
2. should I leave any access to the side panel (in case there are any leaks that need repairing)?   If so, how much space is needed?  Could I get by with 1.5 feet (on just 1 side) or should I just leave 6" extra for when the spa is set into the hole?

Thanks in advance

  Are you going to build a vault type thing or just dig a hole and bury it type deal on crushed rock or cement pad?     You could at the very least leave off the btm screws so the panels can be lifted up and off.   Space wise for service you should be fine depending how fat the guy coming to work on it is if service is needed..   Your only talking 18" below grade so that's not bad if the panels can be removed.

[calilou]

I am planning on building a vault type and keeping the extra space around the spa open (with some form of wood cover that can be walked on).  I also need to deal with drainage as I now have an 18" hole.

I like the idea of leaving less than 30" (as it is only 18" deep), but wanted to know if most of the parts would still be serviceable.

Am also concerned about trying to locate/fix any leaks that are on the side/back.  If I leave some extra room in the vault then in theory the tub should be moveable/accessable from all sides if empty (rather than having to remove the tub from the vault for repairs).

[Jacuzzi Jim]

I am planning on building a vault type and keeping the extra space around the spa open (with some form of wood cover that can be walked on).  I also need to deal with drainage as I now have an 18" hole.

I like the idea of leaving less than 30" (as it is only 18" deep), but wanted to know if most of the parts would still be serviceable.

Am also concerned about trying to locate/fix any leaks that are on the side/back.  If I leave some extra room in the vault then in theory the tub should be moveable/accessable from all sides if empty (rather than having to remove the tub from the vault for repairs).

  You are defiantly going to want a drain in there, and you could probably get away with a vault that's 10" larger than the spa a bit more in the front.   Leave slack on the incoming electrical so if you had to move the spa a little all the way around you can.   90% of the time you will only need access to the spa from the front and may never need to get into a sides or back, but you never know so it's good your thinking ahead! 

[mrpenguin]

If the sundance has the clearray stuff, you will need some access to the corner maybe.   My Jacuzzi 470 has the clear ray stuff where it looks like I pretty much have to take the panels off almost past the corner of the tub, and it seems that there is not too many sections of sides, big panels instead.  Also, we had an issue with the rear of our tub, so the back had to be opened.  If it were sunk, I am not sure how that would have been done.  How rigid are you going to re-enforce the sides of the "vault"?  I'd think after time, weather and such could have the walls leak, crumble, grow weeds/roots, etc.  Know what I mean?   A drain would be a must, and make sure the base is graded so it all goes into that drain.
(then again, I am a new owner and not a repair dude, so take as needed, may be all wrong)

[clover]

I would have a talk with your dealer.  Have him show you where the motors are located, ask him if he ever had to change a lighting system out and how can he access the waterfall light, ask him if you recess it 18" can he still get at everything he needs to get at.  Frankly, 30" is not going to work.  You will find out that you are painting yourself into a corner. 

I have a had customer that chose to ignore our advice and did what he wanted.  Before the home was finished, in the winter months we were called by the electrical inspector to tell us the spa was "floating" and the motors were submerged and under water.  2 days late the customer called to say his motors don't work and demanded warranty service.  It was not a pleasant experience that's all I will say.

[calilou]

Just received an email from a senior tech at Sundance spas;  for my case of having the spa sunk 18" into the ground, the suggestion was to have 2 feet of clearance on the front and 2 feet of clearance on one side (that way the emptied spa could be moved inside the vault for servicing on all sides)

Thanks for all the replies/suggestions.

[Dr. Spa™ Ret.]

I Can't imagine what it would take to slide a 600 to 800 pound spa, that's sat on concrete for a while forming perfectly to the texture, two feet...and then back again. I also can't imaging that any warranty work would cover trying to make this move (at least not without paying, a lot, for it).

[Spatech_tuo]

Just received an email from a senior tech at Sundance spas;  for my case of having the spa sunk 18" into the ground, the suggestion was to have 2 feet of clearance on the front and 2 feet of clearance on one side (that way the emptied spa could be moved inside the vault for servicing on all sides)

Thanks for all the replies/suggestions.

2 feet? You'll need the skinny tech in that case. I'd go 3 ft.

[clover]

It would be so easy to create the same illusion placing the spa on the level surface, and then placing surrounding steps, planter boxes, storage cabinets, and side bars that could all be easily moved IF the need was required. 

But then of course, anybody can do anything they want, as long as they can afford the cost of subsequent consequences.    So much for the best laid plans of mice and men.

Don't paint yourself into a corner unless you can afford the solutions.  This is all about esthetics, and how it will look.  Yes it will be easier to enter in a recess situation, but the steps accomplish the same objectives.

Some of us have been there, done that, and had to deal with elements of anger when the truth becomes known as reality.

[calilou]

I am only recessing it b/c the city is requiring that it be a maximum 18" above grade if it is located within 10' of my back fence and 6' of my side fence ...  (otherwise I would just leave it at grade level and save the money).

2 feet is all I can spare on 2 sides, so I will have to ask for the skinny tech.

Looking at the dry weight of the spa I agree that moving it inside the vault will be difficult!  (but at least I have easy access to 2 sides).