91-93 sovereign spa

[ex0r]

Okay, so I was just given a hot tub/spa, and it's a 1991-1993 hotsprings sovereign hot tub. It's the one with the rectangle control panel with two buttons (one for jets and one for timed jets), and two knobs for the light and the heat. My question is, the previous owner removed the control box because it was struck by lightning they think, and the box appears to be in working order, but one of the plugs is burned up. I am looking to find a replacement plug so I can reuse the outlet, it's one of the plugs that goes into the heater unit (It has two heater units in one box that plug into the control box). Does anybody know where I can find the replacement plug at?

Also, does anybody have the wiring diagram for the hookup? It appears to be 220, and since it was already disassembled when we got it, we don't know how it was hooked up.

[Chas]

If it looks like this:



Then it is part number 30163. Google it, and if you can't find it, contact me and I would be glad to order it for you and send to you.

Your tub has two heaters, and if you wanted to test it all out before spending any money, you could reassemble it and heat it on one of the two element. They are 2500 watts each, and do an amazing job running solo!

The wiring diagram should be somewhere on the tub: inside the cover for the junction box is the fist place I would look. The basics are: You need to feed the tub with two circuits. One for the heater alone, and one for everything else in the tub.

Look for a junction box - it may be metal and attached right to the black control box.

Inside are four wires and a ground lug. You put the two hot wires from a 2P 30A GFI breaker to the largest two wires, one is red and the other blue. No Neutral wire goes to that breaker, just the two hots.

Then you should have a black and white, and they will go to a 1P 20A GFI breaker.

Notice that the neutral from the tub goes to the neutral lug on the single pole 20A GFI breaker and NOT to the neutral bus in the sub panel.

I have a complete wiring diagram, but it is a PDF and I can't up load it here.

HTH

 

[ex0r]

If it looks like this:

Then it is part number 30163. Google it, and if you can't find it, contact me and I would be glad to order it for you and send to you.

Your tub has two heaters, and if you wanted to test it all out before spending any money, you could reassemble it and heat it on one of the two element. They are 2500 watts each, and do an amazing job running solo!

The wiring diagram should be somewhere on the tub: inside the cover for the junction box is the fist place I would look. The basics are: You need to feed the tub with two circuits. One for the heater alone, and one for everything else in the tub.

Look for a junction box - it may be metal and attached right to the black control box.

Inside are four wires and a ground lug. You put the two hot wires from a 2P 30A GFI breaker to the largest two wires, one is red and the other blue. No Neutral wire goes to that breaker, just the two hots.

Then you should have a black and white, and they will go to a 1P 20A GFI breaker.

Notice that the neutral from the tub goes to the neutral lug on the single pole 20A GFI breaker and NOT to the neutral bus in the sub panel.

I have a complete wiring diagram, but it is a PDF and I can't up load it here.

HTH

 

I can't see the picture, but I found a replacement part I need at backyardplus.com

as for the wiring diagram, the junction box is attached to the back of the control box where all the wires come in, but the cover is missing off of it, so if it was on it it's gone. It also doesn't have the mini-box with the circuits in it, or the kill switch, which isn't a problem as I should be able to easily get one at menards or the local hardware store.

Is there a way you can email me the wiring diagram? I tried finding an online manual for this year, but I cannot find one.

my email address is masteryoer at gmail.com

thank you!

[Chas]

I sent it off.

What do you mean by "Kill Switch?" If you are referring to the door interlock switch, you can do fine without it. Just hardwire past it - bring the two wires together safely inside the box while you have it open.

Please let me know if you are referring to something else!

 

[ex0r]

I sent it off.

What do you mean by "Kill Switch?" If you are referring to the door interlock switch, you can do fine without it. Just hardwire past it - bring the two wires together safely inside the box while you have it open.

Please let me know if you are referring to something else!

 

No, not that, although that answers my question as to what that is, since the control box was out of the compartment when we got it, there was a little black rectangle looking piece that looked like a magnet with a screw hole on each side. That must be the door trigger or something to shut the pump/heater off when the compartment door is opened?

What I meant by killswitch, was at the breaker box. We were told that you have to use one of those pull switches to shut off the power to the circuit breaker (as required by code), it is black and red, and you pull it up to connect power, and pull it down to disconnect power. Looks like a lever.

Is it possible that an II was a 220 volt? I have two heaters for sure in one box, but when I look at the serial # on the tub itself inside the compartment (in a sticker), it shows the serial number either as 11111016 or II111016 (something similar to that, but it definately doesn't show IH). I am wondering which one I actually have. It may also be possible somebody bought the 115v one and converted it to 220 volt setup, or replaced the tub itself with a 115v tub?

[Chas]

Your serial number is II-111016 and it identifies your tub as a Sovereign 220, made in the first quarter of 1991. That matches the control panel you described.

Let me look at the wiring diagram to see if it is different than the one I sent you - may have to get to that later today.

The heater plug should be the same - and yes, that strange looking black thing with the plunger in it's center is a door interlock. You can wire past it, or simply push it in and hold it there with a small bolt through the side holes. If you want to keep it in operation (the new tubs don't have it, and when you consider that you have to use a screw driver to get the access door open it isn't really that important...) you need to be sure the metal 'fin' which looks like a short section of angle iron on the back of the door fits into it once you have things all back together.

You will still need two circuits as I mentioned above, and the easiest way to do that is with a sub panel near the spa. Put the two breakers in that box - it will fulfill the requirement of safely shutting off the spa when you need to, and give you full GFI protection. It also will allow you to put an inexpensive regular breaker back at your main power panel.

Looks like the very same electrical diagram. More later as time allows -

 

[ex0r]

Your serial number is II-111016 and it identifies your tub as a Sovereign 220, made in the first quarter of 1991. That matches the control panel you described.

Let me look at the wiring diagram to see if it is different than the one I sent you - may have to get to that later today.

The heater plug should be the same - and yes, that strange looking black thing with the plunger in it's center is a door interlock. You can wire past it, or simply push it in and hold it there with a small bolt through the side holes. If you want to keep it in operation (the new tubs don't have it, and when you consider that you have to use a screw driver to get the access door open it isn't really that important...) you need to be sure the metal 'fin' which looks like a short section of angle iron on the back of the door fits into it once you have things all back together.

You will still need two circuits as I mentioned above, and the easiest way to do that is with a sub panel near the spa. Put the two breakers in that box - it will fulfill the requirement of safely shutting off the spa when you need to, and give you full GFI protection. It also will allow you to put an inexpensive regular breaker back at your main power panel.

Looks like the very same electrical diagram. More later as time allows -

 

Actually, what I was referring to was a little black rectangle that looks like a magnet with two screw holes on either side of it (It sort of looks like those things that you put on windows for alarm systems that have a contact on the other side of the window to trigger when the contact is removed), there isn't one with a plunger, although there is what appears to be two thermostats that I still need to locate where they go.

[Chas]

That does the same thing - door interlock - just newer.



 

[ex0r]

Thanks alot for your quick reply and information, you are really helping me get this up and running. I sent you a PM with a couple more questions I had, whenever you get a chance take a look at them.

[Chas]

Answered.