Help with my multimeter readings

[tex912]

Hi clover. Thanks for helping. The tub gets fl1 alternating w/temp. I  have checked all openings and replaced filter. When the tub is running it has excellent flow, the switch in the clear tube(flow switch) is closed(contacts touching). Its when I get the fl1 alternating  w/temp that all buttons except temp up and down do not work. I tested the switch for resistance  with the circ pump running and the switch closed(contacts in tub touching) and got 01.2 which is the same reading I get if I touch the two meter leads together(with the meter set at 200ohms). I then shut off the tub and retested and the meter still read 1(this is the reading the meter has when leads arent contacting anything) the meter did not register. My meter does not have an infinity reading or a beep. I could get one later from a neighbor when he gets home. I will retest it when the fl1 comes on again. Usually after running the heater a little while.


I assume the Circ pump is good, it is running right now.

When I have the code I power down, I pull the loom and put it back in, power up and still have fl1. Nothing happens

[clover]

Your filter has 2 suction fittings, 1 to the main pump, and the second to the circ pump.  The circ pump fitting is a plastic grid screen that might have something partially restricting flow.

Understand the flow switch make a magnetic contact opening and closing the circuit switch.  It is closed by the movement of water.  The circ pump is also magnetically driven.  The impellar "floats" and is not connected to a "shaft drive".  I doubt that you have anything in it but it wouldn't hurt to check.  Open the fitting on the side allowing water to flow out purging anything in it.

What you describe, alternate or flashing flow indicates that switch is opening during operation.  It could be the circ pump is weak, the flow is restricted, or the switch is bad.

[tex912]

Thanks Clover. I did check both openings for debris. It was one of the first things I did. Its to late tonight to open the circ pump connection but I will definately do it tomorow. I did order a new switch just to rule it out, although I don't believe that to be the problem(please be the problem).  As I said, the current switch is less than a year old and the circ pump is the newer liang pump and was installed two years ago. I'm almost positive its not the pump as it is running perfect right now. I also cleaned out that flash reactor with some CLR just to be sure that wasn't clogged up.

I'll let you know how it goes w/the flow switch when I get it in. Right now the tub is throwing the code at least once a day, then it fixes itself. I sure hope its not the board cause it's on sale till tomorrow for around 250. I think thats about half price. Oh well. Its working now so... I'm in.

[SerjicalStrike]

Understanding the purpose of the flow switch and how it works.  It's protect the heater from coming on without adequate water flow and prevents the heater from "dry firing".  A serviceman would be there and gone in 30 minutes after evaluating the flow switch in this manner.

There are 2 messages:

1) "flashing flo" means the flow switch did not close and disables the heater.  Correct adequate water flow.  Check the plastic screen in the filter bay after removing the filter for leaves, plastic, etc that could restrict water flow.  I will commonly find leaves or candy wrappers.

2) "solid flo" indicate the switch did NOT OPEN properly when the system shut down, upon start up "solid flo" recognizes a switch that "did not open" and everything becomes disabled.  Solution, replace flow switch. 

Best way to analyze, power down, pull the sensor loom out and put it back in, the circuit board now recognizes the switch opened and when it starts up you can see the fingers close in the transparent fitting and all functions work.  Another way is to use your meter to measure resistance of the switch which should be infinity, or open.  If it shows any resistance, replace it.

Flashing flow is either a bad circ pump, or inadequate water flow caused by dirty filter, obstruction, or something sucked in when the filter was removed during operation.

On his spa, FL1 is a flashing FLO.  It could also be caused by a bad relay on the board
FL2 would be a solid FLO. 

When you get the FL1, is the pump running?  If it is not, then it is either a bad pump or a bad relay on the board. 

[tex912]

No circ pump and cant use any jet pumps or lights. The fl1 usually fixes itself leading me to beleive its the relay. That will be next after the flow switch since it is cheaper. Thanks guys. Ill let you know.

[tex912]

Got new flow switch and installed, no luck. Got fl1 this morning. Looks like the board is next.

Jim, Ill be calling you after the holiday.

[tex912]

Have not gotten another fl1 in a couple days, but we are gonna test it out tonight . 

[tex912]

Wow. No problems with the hot tub now. I can't believe it was a flow sensor, But so far so good. I checked the new flow sensor against the old one with my meter and I get the same readings. Im thinking it was a connection problem. Anyway thanks for all the help. Hopefully it keeps working.

[tex912]

update....got in last night and it was not working. FL1 !!!!!  will have to order board now. this blows. I just put the deck back together the other day. Never fails.