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Have you been using non chlorine spa shock regularly? Sound like she has folliculitis (hot tub rash) due to improper chemical regime.
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« Last post by Davekro on March 01, 2024, 08:47:36 pm »
@cuthbertdavies , I have a 310 gallon regular hot tub. I use 20% (liquid) Klean-Strip Muriatic Acid from Home Depot $9.98 to lower my PH. With my TA at between 30-40 ppm, it takes VERY little 20% MA to lower my PH. For my tub, 1 TEAspoon of 20% MA lowerd my PH from 7.8 to ≈ 7.5. Most Muriatic acid sold is 31.45% Mur. Acid (much stonger) but about the same cost as the 20% MA version. If you want to try MA. take a bucket, scoop it 3/4 full from your tub, add ONLY 1/2 TEAspoon of 20% MA, or maybe 1/3 TEAspoon if you buy the more common full strength MA. Much better to micro dose raise PH slightly and repeat if needed. With MA, it is way to easy to add to much and drop your PH well below 6.8! Good Luck
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« Last post by Davekro on March 01, 2024, 08:14:38 pm »
Before we go through the hassle of draining the tub and restarting with Chlorine as the sanitizer instead of Bromine, to see if Chlorine causes my wife no skin rashes, we want to fill the bathtub with hot water and simulate the chlorine water conditions that would be the same as if we convert the hot tub to chlorine.
So here are our questions:
1) Is it common for some people to have a Bromine allergy, but NOT a Chlorine allergy? What are the odds of this?
2)How do I create a bathtub chlorine environment to match a hot tub's?
a) Would I need to reduce our tap water's 370 ppm TA (Total Alkalinity) down below 70 ppm (our hot tub's current TA is 40 ppm), then get the PH adjusted between 7.4- 7.7 before adding Chlorine to make the test valid as close as possible to apples to apples to the actual hot tub?
b) How much of 7.5% chlorine to initially add to say ≈ 30 gallons of bath water to get an in-range chlorine level?
c) I only have a Taylor K-2106 'Bromine' test kit. Is there a workaround test that will tell me the effective Chlorine level I need to measure? If I can't do that with my K-2106 kit/reagents, what reagents would I need to buy to perform a proper Chlorine level test for our experimental bathtub test?
3) Are people with similar Bromine allergy/sensitivity able to completely avoid allergic reactions of rashes and bumps by simply taking Antihistamines like: 25mg Benadryl or 10mg Cetirizine HCI (Zyrtec or Amazon Generic), 10 mg Loratadine (Claritin or Amazon Generic)? If so, what doses and how long before and after?
The Background:
We purchased a brand-new Bullfrog A6L (310 gals) Hot tub with the only time it was filled was at OEM water test at the time of manufacture, three months prior. The tub was purged, water balanced, Bromine Reserve added, Chlorine Shock done, PH & Bromine levels have been kept in range. I swap in a dry, cleaned filter once per week. The Bromine (always between 3-6 ppm) causes my wife extreme rash and bumps, but I have no skin reactions at all. Our initial soak (103º F, PH 7.6, Ttl Bromine 6ppm, TA 30 ppm) caused her an extreme allergic reaction where she had a rash and bumps on her trunk, arms and legs. I am using a Taylor K-2106 'Complete (FAS-DPD bromine)' test kit.
She said the pain and itching for a week was worse than her prior bout of Covid. It kept her awake all night. A week and a half later we let the Total Bromine drop to zero, PH ≈7.6, TA 40ppm. The water temp was only at 93º F. The allergic reaction was nowhere near as strong, but she still felt it coming on 1-2 hours after her soak. She took one Zyrtec 10mg Cetirizine HCI Antihistamine at that time and for two days following and the rash dissipated. I have had no allergic reactions at all.
Installation, thorough Purge and refill process:
Three weeks ago, after the brand new hot tub was installed, I filled it (310 gals) and did a purge using AHH!some. Ran jets on high w/ air for 30 mins. wiped away the green sludge from the shell above the water line and scooped a few small patches from the water. I then removed the four Bullfrog JetPaks and cleaned the green from them that was at the waterline. As an extra precaution, I then ran the jets on high for a second 30 minute period. There was only a small amount of green residue to wipe away this time. I then sprayed ≈ 50 gallons of water into the tub via each jet to rinse any lingering residue of green biofilm and AHH!some purge. I siphoned out then used a shop vac to completely drain the foot well as well as vacuuming each JetPak supply pipe and all the lowest fixed jets. I am pretty sure we can rule out ‘hot tub folliculitis’.
Thank you, Dave
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« Last post by icenogle on March 01, 2024, 04:35:21 pm »
That is a great question. I have been removing my panels lately chasing down a leak. Found it and put it all back together after I replaced my leaking pump. Too many screws. Turns out I found the large leak now I have to go in and find the small/slower leak. Should not have drained during the cold snap. A couple things froze. Should have known better. Will go with installing less screws.
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« Last post by cranbiz on February 23, 2024, 10:39:37 am »
I'm sure it really doesn't need all 10+ screws to hold on the panel. I'll bet you can use 1/2 to 1/4 of the screws to hold the panel in place.
One screw in each of the corners and one top and bottom in the center should hold it secure and make it easier to remove.
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« Last post by shaywood on February 20, 2024, 07:50:02 pm »
Hello, I frequently remove the side panel of my hot tub to service the pump area. On a 2023 Calspa this requires removing 10+ screws. Curious if anyone recommends some type of quick connect screw or other idea to save time. Perhaps a push release screw?
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I have a small inflatable hot tub with a capacity of 177 gallons. This is my first time owning a hot tub, and I've been attempting for days to lower the pH level, but it remains stubbornly high. Every time I test it with a test strip, it reads higher than 9. Additionally, my Total Alkalinity (TA) is struggling to increase and maintain a stable level. Yesterday, I managed to raise it to 80, but now it has dropped back down to 40. I'm using chlorine to sanitize the water.
Despite adding significant amounts of pH decreaser, the pH level doesn't seem to change. After a day, all the chemicals settle at the bottom of the tub. I've tried using the skimmer to agitate the water and aid in mixing the chemicals to lower the pH, but to no avail. I'm replacing the filter every day, and it's becoming saturated with chemicals.
This situation has become a nightmare. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. I'm at a loss for what to do next.
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« Last post by Ripper238 on February 10, 2024, 01:28:30 pm »
Just wanted to give an update. I ended up getting a Wellis Monte Rosa for me an my wife. And while my only point of reference was the Maxx spa I had that was probably 20 years old, the difference is night and day. The jets are amazing compared to what I remember. Had the spa about 4 months now and am very pleased with the tub. It has definitely helped with my wife's back problems.
Just wanted to thank everyone for their help.
Great to hear! The Monte Rosa will provide great jet verity and therapeutic benefits for you and your wife for a long time.
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@BullFrogSpasMN ,
You have been very informative on Bullfrog questions. Thank you. Can you tell me about the 2023 Neck JetPaks? I have the NeckPlus JetPak which may have been modified, and poorly. On my NeckPlus, just below where the headrest goes over the front protrusions over each shoulder, cut out slots have been made roughly and unevenly. Looks like it was done by a grinding wheel or 1/8" wide cutting wheel on an angle grinder. This is on a brand new A6L Select from a brand new Bullfrog dealer. It was a 2 month old (dry) floor model. Are these cutouts supposed to be there, meaning the Bullfrog factory does this on the assembly line that builds the 2023 JetPaks? If so, the B'Frog worker was extremely sloppy as the cutouts (slots) are uneven side to side. If B'Frog does these manual modifications on the 2023 Neck JetPaks, you'd think they would water test them on a JetPak water test fixture in the JetPak subassembly line.
If these cut-outs are not done by B'Frog at the factory, I can't imagine how a brand-new dealer would end up with a non OEM modified JetPak. The dealer has only been in business for 3 months, and I was literally their first sale. Not like another customer returned this Jet pack to the store after the customer modified it. I wore out Google looking to find pics or videos of 2023 B'Frog Neck JetPaks. The ONLY example of a 2023 Neck Pak I found was a Neck'EASE'. It had no water coming from the shoulder protrusions.
I will be talking to the dealer, but I seriously doubt he'll have a clue of what this NeckPLUS JetPak should look like, so I'd like to know in advance of confusing him. 
Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
Dave
Can you post a photo of what you are describing? something sounds off about it. Here's a quick snap of one on my sales floor for reference...  ][url=https://ibb.co/x78thSW]upload images[/url]
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