Hot Tub Forum
Original => Hot Tub Forum => Topic started by: Styx555 on August 15, 2006, 02:02:38 pm
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What are the different types of ozone systems, how do they work differently and what are the benefits to each? (ie. UV, CD, chip replacement)?
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I don't belive any major tub manufactuer is still using the UV method. CD units produce significantly more 03 than the bulb units. So the UV-CD issue may be moot.
I belive the major concerns with CD units are contact chambers some tubs do not have one) and running the unit 24/7/365. (It's my understanding some tubs do not have a 24/7 ozone system
but i could be wrong....
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CD ozone generators also react more vigorously with humidity, causing nitric acid to build up in the lines. This can clog the lines as well at eat away at check valves in the line. Depending on your situation, a UV may be better for you.
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I live in a very humid climate (summer months) and very cold with high winds (winter months). Would this imply that I should stay away from CD systems and look only at UV systems?
Also, what does CD stand for and how could you tell the difference?
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CD ozone generators also react more vigorously with humidity, causing nitric acid to build up in the lines. This can clog the lines as well at eat away at check valves in the line. Depending on your situation, a UV may be better for you.
Serj,
What manufacters still use UV? I thought D1 was the last and they switched to CD?
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I would hope no one is still using UV.. It's definately the more "old school" method. The bulbs burn out after approx 18 months and are about $80ish to replace. At least that's how much I'd sell em for at my old store. Drewstar is right, the newer CD (Corona Discharge) type produce something like 3x more ozone. But, there are different types of CD ozones. Some are made very cheaply, but are still better than the UV style.
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Better in my opinion, of course.. don't wanna tick anybody off. :) I didn't know only CD ozones clogged check valves? Well, I suppose it's easier and more cost effective to replace check valves and hoses then UV bulbs.
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CD ozone generators also react more vigorously with humidity, causing nitric acid to build up in the lines. Â This can clog the lines as well at eat away at check valves in the line. Â Depending on your situation, a UV may be better for you.
Serj,
What manufacters still use UV? I thought D1 was the last and they switched to CD?
TBH, Im not sure if any spa manufacturer still makes UV ozones. I would think that the ozone manufacturers would still make them. Essentially, though, if you need to get a UV ozone because of humidity, I would suggest sticking to Nature 2. Paying $300-$500 for a high powered ozone doesn't do you any good if it clogs the line and dies in a year or two. And with the amount of help a UV is going to give you, you are better off with a Nature 2 system.
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Better in my opinion, of course.. don't wanna tick anybody off. Â :) I didn't know only CD ozones clogged check valves? Well, I suppose it's easier and more cost effective to replace check valves and hoses then UV bulbs.
CD ozones do it because they typically put out 10-20 times the amount of ozone as a UV ozone. As a consumer, would you want to replace your check valves and hoses every few months? I have some customers that do it and they don't mind, but I am sure the majority of customers don't want to do it. And if you don't know about it, and let it go too long, the CD unit can be damaged.
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I live in a very humid climate (summer months) and very cold with high winds (winter months). Would this imply that I should stay away from CD systems and look only at UV systems?
Also, what does CD stand for and how could you tell the difference?
CD= Corona Discharge. (This is also a term that we used this past weekend at the Jimmy Buffertt concert after a youthful college aged kid drank to many of the sponsor's product). :)
UV= Ultra Violet
UV has bulbs (you can see a blue glow comming from the unit, if you open up the equipment panel). Plus, your manual will say so.
No bulbs= CD unit.
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Better in my opinion, of course.. don't wanna tick anybody off. :) I didn't know only CD ozones clogged check valves? Well, I suppose it's easier and more cost effective to replace check valves and hoses then UV bulbs.
CD ozones do it because they typically put out 10-20 times the amount of ozone as a UV ozone. As a consumer, would you want to replace your check valves and hoses every few months? I have some customers that do it and they don't mind, but I am sure the majority of customers don't want to do it. And if you don't know about it, and let it go too long, the CD unit can be damaged.
What type of tubs do you sell that the CD unit needs maitence every few months?
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I work for a company that sells Sundance. The issue is that the CD unit puts out so much ozone, it reacts with the humidity and forms nitric acid. In some situations, that nitric acid can build up and clog the check valves. It is not the actual CD ozone that needs maintenance, it is the line from the CD ozone to the venturi.
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Would I therefore be better off with no ozone system and just use chemicals instead?
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I guess it depends on what kind of spa you are getting. I do not know about any other manufacturers' ozone units, so I do not know how much ozone they actual output. You could probably get away with a low output cd ozone.
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Serj,
Did you know that Sundance high AND low output CD ozonators available?
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What are the different types of ozone systems, how do they work differently and what are the benefits to each? (ie. UV, CD, chip replacement)?
Styx555,
If you do a search on ozone back to about the end of July, there were a series of posts on this subject between myself,Vinny, Chas and The Vermonter and alot of others. The info there should help you out, it got kinda technical but if you can get past that the info was great.
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Serj,
Did you know that Sundance high AND low output CD ozonators available?
You can get an inexpensive UV unit for around 99 bucks. If it last for a couple years and you have to get another, that is 200 bucks for 4 years 400 for 8. May not be such a bad idea. Just some randon thoughts.
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Well....I have a different example to post.....this week we had a customer that could not get their water to maintain its normally sparkling personality ....I tried to help them trouble shoot over the phone and finally they asked about the ozone (smart of them) I told them how to check it and it was in fact not working ( only our 3rd unit in 2 years) ....anyway we put in a new one and the water came right back.....but this post also made me dig a little deeper into the debate about ozone and UV vs CD ......the R&D person I spoke with at great length really had a view very different than most posting here and that was in their in-depth studies that the UV type actually created more ozone and had less noise than the average CD unit.....but the UV did have its own flaws which were mainly the bulb coating itself with an oil like substance that the ballast produced ...so they went solid state unit and it has proven itself to be highly efficient and reliable ......He did say a unit that I would assume is more like the high output Arctic unit does put out more ozone but they felt it becomes cost prohibtive......
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Nitric acid burns, unfortunately, i had first hand knowledge 6-7 years ago. Last winter i stopped by a DEL Ozone both at one of the shows. I snickered at the UV unit, but the older gentleman took me to school over it. The current longevity of UV units is NOT what it used to be. Bulbs DON'T degrade as they used to. For years we used the BubbleGun UV Ozone from Heliotrope General. Now, we stick with CD units from Watkins or JED Engineering if it's a skinny deal. My cents. UV is worth a look.
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this week we had a customer that could not get their water to maintain its normally sparkling personality ....I tried to help them trouble shoot over the phone and finally they asked about the ozone (smart of them) I told them how to check it and it was in fact not working ( only our 3rd unit in 2 years) ....anyway we put in a new one and the water came right back.....
I've seen this same scenario play out sooo many times which is why I know a good ozonator makes a very REAL difference in water management.
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I've seen this same scenario play out sooo many times which is why I know a good ozonator makes a very REAL difference in water management.
I would never be without one again, I have tryed it both ways. But I also only put it as a secondary supplement to a good sanitiation routine using a good/proven sanitation method (chlorine or bromine)
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I've seen this same scenario play out sooo many times which is why I know a good ozonator makes a very REAL difference in water management.
I would never be without one again, I have tryed it both ways. But I also only put it as a secondary supplement to a good sanitiation routine using a good/proven sanitation method (chlorine or bromine)
When you see the same pattern enough times it becomes pretty obvious.
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I've seen this same scenario play out sooo many times which is why I know a good ozonator makes a very REAL difference in water management.
I would never be without one again, I have tryed it both ways. But I also only put it as a secondary supplement to a good sanitiation routine using a good/proven sanitation method (chlorine or bromine)
Yes to overstate is usefulness is wrong. It is a very useful tool in water management but in and of its-self it will not keep your water sanitized but within proper balance it an effective aid.
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If you have a spa with a CD Ozone system, just look at your owner's manual for information concerning the maintenance required. Look in the Hot Springs manual. They warn about the nitric acid build-up caused by the electrical fields of their CD unit and humidity. They warn to wear protective gloves, clothing, and eyewear while performing this required maintenance.