Hot Tub Forum
Original => Hot Tub Forum => Topic started by: joshua45 on April 24, 2006, 03:46:30 pm
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Getting conflicting information from spa dealorships. I'll be getting my tub hopefully this weekend. Stopped at 2 hot but places today to 'varify' what I've read hear and via other dealors that you DO NOT USE SOFT WATER.. and to fill tub with Hard or regular water..then add chemicals... Today I talked to two other dealers as well as the water softener company and they both said: "DO NOT USE HARD WATER.. as its the minerals in hard water that caused the jets to become clogged and scale etc to form on jets, heater, plumbing etc.... SO WHAT IS TRUTH? It would make sense that 'hard' water with all the possible mineral salts etc. WOULD be the culpret in creating potential problems and in fact, that 'the less chemical salts in the original water, the LESS CHEMICALS will be needed... Is this a ploy to get people to buy chemicals? Again, WHO KNOWS TRUTH? The dealers today said that when they do have problems with tubs, it usually IS THE WATER (hard with lime, iron, calcium etc) that makes the Ph hard to regulate and causes the problems they have seen. Any metalergist out there?
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I was also told by my spa technician not to use my soft water. HOWEVER, my untreated water was not that bad with respect to pH and minerals (other than a small amount of iron that the scale and stain took out). I guess it is going to depend on how hard your water is and if your softened water would create more problems than your untreated water. What is the real problem with the soft water anyway? Is it because with all the evaporation the residual salt will concentrate and corrode equipment?
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Soft water + low pH = corrosive water.
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Again, that is my question.. What is the problem with the 'soft' water? there is obviously mush LESS mineral salts in it then in 'hard' water. Logically it would make sense that whether it is evaporation, heating by the element etc. etc. that 'the more desolved minerals (hard water) present in the water, the harder the 'spa chemicals' to DEIONIZE the water would have to work. Less desolved minerals salts = less spa chemicals and the easier to adjust Ph. Thats just basic chemistry.
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Distilled/purified/ R/O system water = neutral Ph. Usually it is the salts in the water that creates an 'alkaline Ph (7.2->). I'm just not sure about 'softened' water and its relative Ph.
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Or less disolved minerals, less buffer capacity?
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Again, that is my question.. What is the problem with the 'soft' water? there is obviously mush LESS mineral salts in it then in 'hard' water. Logically it would make sense that whether it is evaporation, heating by the element etc. etc. that 'the more desolved minerals (hard water) present in the water, the harder the 'spa chemicals' to DEIONIZE the water would have to work. Less desolved minerals salts = less spa chemicals and the easier to adjust Ph. Thats just basic chemistry.
Soft water can be corrosive. (Bad thing to happen)
Too hard of water can lead to mineral deposits. (Annoying but not so bad as corrosion.)
I read an article on the subject, and it made sense.
Unfortunately, I can't site the source. Damn short term memory.
You want some hardness in your water- mine tests at 250, which is considered hard water, but right on per the instructions on my water test kits.
I don't follow your logic. But it's your spa, and you get to live with the consequences.
Just know that damage to your spa caused by improper water chemistry isn't going to be covered by your warranty.
Try searching the forum for posts on the topic. You'll find out that pretty much soft water isn't recommended.
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http://www.askalanaquestion.com/langelier_index.htm
Here is a website that describes the corrolation between pH, water hardness, total alkalinity, and temperature.
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I'm not a chemist, but I slept at Holiday Inn Express last night.
Other than that, I've been playing with pool and spa water for over 20 years. I don't know all the scientific reasons, but I know water wants calcium. If it does not have it, it will try to find it. Thus, it becomes corrosive. Soft water is okay to fill with if you must. However, you will still need to add calcium back to the water to have the correct hardness level.
If your water is very high in hardness levels, then blend the hard with the soft to get the correct level. Don't ask soft water people about this. They really only know about home water systems. Soft water in home piping only stays a short while, so I suppose that is why it is better in homes.
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I went to that site that SerjicalStrike listed- I have to go over it more thoroughly, but is anyone here familiar with things to sequester calcium, other than products like "defend"? Or magnetic agents?