Hot Tub Forum
Original => Hot Tub Forum => Topic started by: tkruel on May 26, 2005, 11:17:43 am
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I'm sure this has been covered, but I am new to hot tub ownership. I am currently using granulated chlorine in my tub & have been instructed to use a tablespoon (or more) after each use....along with the other chemicals I have been putting in on a regular schedule, it seems like a lot of work (no...I'm really not that lazy). What are the pro's & cons of a bromine float vs chlorine?
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I'm sure this has been covered, but I am new to hot tub ownership. I am currently using granulated chlorine in my tub & have been instructed to use a tablespoon (or more) after each use....along with the other chemicals I have been putting in on a regular schedule, it seems like a lot of work (no...I'm really not that lazy). What are the pro's & cons of a bromine float vs chlorine?
Bromine sounds easier but to me it leaves a constant chemical smell to the spa. The chlorine regime you've been given may seem complicated but its really simple when you get used to it. I'd recommend you stick with chlorine and 4 months or so from now when its time to drain you can rethink it and try bromine (yuck) if you've been unsatisfied with chlorine. Give it a try before you throw your hands up in the air.
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Just to add to Spatech's comment, you can continue to use chlorine and purchase a chlorine dispenser to eliminate the "spoon feeding" aspect of your current system.
It has nothing to do with being lazy but rather minimizing your maintenance. Some don't like the puck system but when done correctly, it works fine. It will eliminate the need to go out to the spa on a regular basis and if you go away, it will slowly dispense chlorine into the spa while away keeping it clean and sanitized.
I wouldn't switch to bromine yet until you've tried the chlorine pucks. There's no right or wrong answer and as much as Spatech doesn't care for Bromine, I feel much the same about chlorine! :P ;D
I never switch people unless they are really unhappy with one or the other due to odors or they just can't manage their current sanitizer regime.
Steve
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i am also new to this; maxxus on order. dealer recommends mineral cartridge and dichlor. another local dealer has been using clear choice enzyme system on over 300 customers with great results; says very popular on west coast. has anyone heard of this and can comment on product.
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Steve,
The chlorine pucks are Trichlor here in the States - I thought Trichlor was a no-no in a spa due to it's acidic nature?
Is this something new?
Thanks!
Vinny
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chlorine here is trichlor in canada as well. I have been recommended to use bromine when I get my tub. I think that I will start with this and see how it goes. I really dont like the idea of chlorine but if I could find a local dichlor supplier I would give it a try. I cant seem to find anyone close to supply dichlor.
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Steve,
The chlorine pucks are Trichlor here in the States - I thought Trichlor was a no-no in a spa due to it's acidic nature?
Is this something new?
Thanks!
Vinny
Hey Vinny,
Yeah it's trichlor. I know there's a plethora of different systems on the market today and even more in the US but virtually every pool uses chlorine pucks and a large % of home spas here in Canada. Though bromine has it's advantages, it's still a chlorine based product and both puck systems offer very low pH. Quite often shock treatments have a high pH to counter this.
As long as consumers are testing their alkalinity monthly, I've never seen this to be a substantial issue in my experience.
Steve
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dealer recommends mineral cartridge and dichlor.
I'm big on a dichlor regime using ozone and a mineral cartridge (Nature 2). It gives excellent results and it's the only thing I've used at home to my satisfaction.
Trichlor is acidic and many manufacturers will have wording in their warranties against its use so be careful.
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This maybe a dumb question....but what is a mineral cartridge? and is the chlorine granules I am using now the same as the dichlor & trichlor?
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It is amazing how frequently this comes up. I strongly recommend that you go to www.rhtubs.com and look for the Vermonter's water treatment plan in the FAQs. It is based on dichlor.
Trichlor is not a good idea (it states in the HotSpring's owner's manual, for example, that using trichlor voids the warranty) in a spa because it will drop the pH of the water to levels low enough to attack pump seals, bearings, and shafts. The reason Trichlor is ok in pools is because of the much greater volume of water being treated. Dichlor is essentially pH neutral.
Bromine is also inherently acidic, but it takes a lot more bromine than it does chlorine to get the same level of sanitation. This factor makes it possible to get the puck type dispenser to be a practical alternative for bromine for spas.
Irrespective of the sanitizer you decide to use, it is essential that you start your water treatment by getting total alkalinity right (i.e 120 to 150 ppm). This buffers the water and stabilizes pH. Again this is covered in detail in the Vermonter's program.
Regards,
Bill
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I have a Marquis with the Spa Frog inline bromine and mineral cartridges. Started out shocking with MPS, but changed to dichlor for shock a few weeks ago. No noticeable difference in the water. Doing a water change this weekend and am thinking about trying strictly dichlor this fill (still using the mineral cartridge).
First I'd like some feedback on switching from the Frog to dichlor. good, bad or other.
Second, do I need to do anything special when I switch?
Thanks,
txwillie
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Did anyone mention ozone ;D ;D ;D
I would consider tablet chlorine a pool chemical suitable for large bodies of water (gallon capacity) and a no-no for Hot Tubs.
Between tri-chlor and liquid chlorine one is 2.6 on the pH scale and the other 13.0 on the pH scale, of course we are trying to maintain 7.2 to 7.6
And then, there is the issue of waranty :-/
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We just got an HS Vanguard. The only chemicals that the dealer recommended were a 1/2 tsp of dichlor per person after use and baking soda if the ph went out of balance. The water seems fine, clear and order free. Am I doing enough.
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Trichlor is not a good idea (it states in the HotSpring's owner's manual, for example, that using trichlor voids the warranty) in a spa because it will drop the pH of the water to levels low enough to attack pump seals, bearings, and shafts.
My understanding is because of the composite material used in the shell on a HS spa. I don't believe it has anything to do with the equipment. If so, why wouldn't EVERY manufacturer have this disclaimer? It makes no sense...
The reason Trichlor is ok in pools is because of the much greater volume of water being treated. Dichlor is essentially pH neutral.
It's all relative Bill. 2ppm of chlorine is 2ppm of chlorine. It just takes far more product in a pool to get it to that reading!
Bromine is also inherently acidic, but it takes a lot more bromine than it does chlorine to get the same level of sanitation.
I 110% respectfully disagree with this comment based on years of experience in this industry. I use a Bromine concentrate and a teaspoon of this product will take my bromine from 1 to 4ppm immediately in a 400 gallon spa.
K...I'm done! ;)
Steve
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This maybe a dumb question....but what is a mineral cartridge? and is the chlorine granules I am using now the same as the dichlor & trichlor?
I think your question got missed! And it isn't a dumb question!
Mineral cartridge is Nature 2 (also known as Freshwater III in HotSpring lingo). It releases minerals into the water continuously to complement your sanitizer (dichlor). I believe the Spa Frog is the same for bromine.
The chlorine granules should be dichlor. If you look on the bottle it will say "Active Ingredient: Dichloro****** (I can't remember the rest of the scientific name of it, but you get the picture)!!! I could be mistaken, though. Maybe one of the EXPERTS will step in and correct any errors I have made!!!
Good luck!
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I have a Marquis with the Spa Frog inline bromine and mineral cartridges. Started out shocking with MPS, but changed to dichlor for shock a few weeks ago. No noticeable difference in the water. Doing a water change this weekend and am thinking about trying strictly dichlor this fill (still using the mineral cartridge).
First I'd like some feedback on switching from the Frog to dichlor. good, bad or other.
Second, do I need to do anything special when I switch?
Thanks,
txwillie
gonna bump my own post. I still would like some feedback on switching from bromine to dichlor particularly from marquis dealers or owners who are familiar with the Spa Frog
thx
txwillie
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"My understanding is because of the composite material used in the shell on a HS spa. I don't believe it has anything to do with the equipment. If so, why wouldn't EVERY manufacturer have this disclaimer? It makes no sense..."
Your understanding is faulty. I am sure you mean well Steve, and I do not want to get into a pissing contest with you, but you are mistaken and it could cause harm to peoples' spas. Here is a simple rule that should help to make things clear: Trichlor is for pools, dichlor is for spas. You can go to any of the chemical manufacturers and find this same information. This is NOT an opinion, it is a fact. Trichlor will dramatically drop the pH of spa water (i.e. it becomes acidic) with the result that it would start to attack the heater, the pump seals and shafts and so forth. As far as I know, the warranty of virtually every manufacturer would be void if trichlor were used. I have checked the following to ascertain the veracity of this statement: HotSpring, Caldera, Sundance, Jacuzzi Premium, Marquis, D1. All are the same.
"I 110% respectfully disagree with this comment based on years of experience in this industry. I use a Bromine concentrate and a teaspoon of this product will take my bromine from 1 to 4ppm immediately in a 400 gallon spa."
I certainly respect your experience and suggest that perhaps you misunderstood what I said. Bromine is not as powerful as chlorine as a sanitizer. It takes more bromine to do the job that is all. In fact 1-3 ppm of free chlorine is probably similar in effectiveness to 3-5 ppm of bromine. Please note that I have never said that bromine is not a good option. I prefer dichlor, but think bromine is a perfectly fine alternative for spas. By the way, I am a chemical engineer.
Regards,
Bill
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gonna bump my own post. I still would like some feedback on switching from bromine to dichlor particularly from marquis dealers or owners who are familiar with the Spa Frog
thx
txwillie
There is no real difference in compatibility for dichlor or bromine when used with a Spa Frog. You would use less dichlor (0.5 to 1 ppm) vs bromine (1-2 ppm). I think these values are correct. Check your owner's manual or go the the Spa Frog web site for confirmation. Also, you should not use MPS with the Spa Frog, I believe the manufacturer warns against doing so.
Regards,
Bill
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There is no real difference in compatibility for dichlor or bromine when used with a Spa Frog. You would use less dichlor (0.5 to 1 ppm) vs bromine (1-2 ppm). I think these values are correct. Check your owner's manual or go the the Spa Frog web site for confirmation. Also, you should not use MPS with the Spa Frog, I believe the manufacturer warns against doing so.
Regards,
Bill
Are you sure that MPS is not compatible with the Spa Frog? The chems that the dealer gave me with the tub included MPS shock, and most folks I've spoken with recommend MPS shock with bromine. I started shocking with dichlor based on info I've gleaned from this site. BTW I can't find anything on the King Technology site that says what type of shock to use.
txwillie
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mendo101, where are you?
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author=Bill_Stevenson link=board=wtb-hottub;num=1117120664;start=15#16 date=05/27/05 at 10:39:52Your understanding is faulty. I am sure you mean well Steve, and I do not want to get into a pissing contest with you, but you are mistaken and it could cause harm to peoples' spas. Here is a simple rule that should help to make things clear: Trichlor is for pools, dichlor is for spas. You can go to any of the chemical manufacturers and find this same information. This is NOT an opinion, it is a fact. Trichlor will dramatically drop the pH of spa water (i.e. it becomes acidic) with the result that it would start to attack the heater, the pump seals and shafts and so forth. As far as I know, the warranty of virtually every manufacturer would be void if trichlor were used. I have checked the following to ascertain the veracity of this statement: HotSpring, Caldera, Sundance, Jacuzzi Premium, Marquis, D1. All are the same.
This discussion has nothing to do with a pissing contest Bill and I do respect and I am aware of your position. I find this debate very enlightning myself! ;) That said, chlorine pucks have been used for many years in spas so you've got your work cut out for you as a crusader against it! ;) As a student of a more "hands on" approach with 10's of thousands of water analysis done, I have seen chlorine pucks (trichlor) work extremely well in a spa application without the results you are describing. Though these pucks do have the result of a low pH, we are talking about 400+ gallons of water and the process for balancing water remains the same.
I was sadly unaware that these other companies you have mentioned also have this disclaimer in their warranty and at this point, I will take your word on it. I believe it's a real shame and I guess it is the difference between a warranty and a guarantee. In the two major manufacturers I have had the pleasure of working for, neither would prevent warranty work from being paid out due to the use of chlorine pucks. Then again, both of these companies gave their customers a guarantee and not a warranty with these sorts of loopholes designed to protect the manufacturer instead of the end user. That being the case, if these same owners of these brands neglect their alkalinity (regardless of the sanitizer used) and it drops off resulting in very low pH and acidic water, will these same manufacturers provide warranty on the resulting damage created by this? If so, what is the difference in neglect between these two scenarios we are speaking of?
Steve
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Steve,
Low pH is a problem for any spa, and low pH can result from other means than using the wrong sanitizer. From a chemistry perspective it matters not how the acid was formed. The consequences to the equipment would also be the same. Heaters, pump shafts and bearings all corrode, seals fail.
Your discussion of warranty vs. guarantee is neither here nor there, but it should be taken up with legal not engineering ;-) . Responsible equipment manufacturers try very hard to define the proper parameters for the safe and effective use of their products. All equipment has important limitations of use.
You mention the need to control total alkalinity so as to stabilize pH. We agree on that point. You argue that this can be done in a 400 gallon spa using trichlor. Perhaps, I would not know because I have never tried it. You see I read the owners manual that came with my spa, which specifically cautioned against it. Perhaps your owner's manual has a similar precaution? I assume that it would. Beyond that point, however, there is also the issue of the relatively large amount of chemical would be needed to offset the very acidic trichlor. This would lead to accelerated scale build up, and faster total dissolved solids buildup, which in turn would result in a requirement for more frequent water changes.
What good end comes from such an approach? I think the regime you outlined in a similar thread earlier this week involving bromine is much better and much more responsible. You are not doing any person seeking advice a favor by encouraging them to do something that is not only wrong according to every manufacturer of both spas and chemicals that I can find, but very well could cause grave damage to their spa. There are plenty of good options, why steer people to a bad one?
Regards,
Bill
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"Are you sure that MPS is not compatible with the Spa Frog? The chems that the dealer gave me with the tub included MPS shock, and most folks I've spoken with recommend MPS shock with bromine. I started shocking with dichlor based on info I've gleaned from this site. BTW I can't find anything on the King Technology site that says what type of shock to use."
This is from www.rhtubs.com:
"Q: Can I use SPA FROG with potassium monopersulfate only?
A: No. This can create an unsafe spa as there is no EPA approved sanitizer residual in the spa. A spa with SPA FROG should maintain a 0.5 - 1 ppm of chlorine or 1 - 2 ppm bromine."
Regards,
Bill
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hey Bill,
in my area in Ontario Canada Trichlor is used for chlorine for tubs. This is what the arctic chemicals are right from the manufacturer. I went to authorized Sundance, jacuzzi, beachcomber, catalina, arctic, canspas, hydropools, and they all sell trichlor. I also called an LA spas dealer and he said trichlor as well is the product that they sell.
I find it strange that it is different like this from Canada to the US. So although you say that dichlor is for spas and trichlor is for pools, I beg to differ from my research here in Canada. Im not trying to start anything, I just want to bring it to your attention that most chlorines for spa useage is trichlor.
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"Are you sure that MPS is not compatible with the Spa Frog? The chems that the dealer gave me with the tub included MPS shock, and most folks I've spoken with recommend MPS shock with bromine. I started shocking with dichlor based on info I've gleaned from this site. BTW I can't find anything on the King Technology site that says what type of shock to use."
This is from www.rhtubs.com:
"Q: Can I use SPA FROG with potassium monopersulfate only?
A: No. This can create an unsafe spa as there is no EPA approved sanitizer residual in the spa. A spa with SPA FROG should maintain a 0.5 - 1 ppm of chlorine or 1 - 2 ppm bromine."
Regards,
Bill
What you reference is not the same system as I have. The FAQ you quoted from Doc's site is for the mineral cartridge only that you put in the filter core. I have the in-line system with two cartridges one for bromine, one for minerals.
Here is a more complete quote from their FAQ's
Q: Can I use SPA FROG alone or do I need another form of chlorination?
A:SPA FROG is to be used with a small amount of chlorine (0.5 - 1 ppm) or bromine (1 - 2 ppm). SPA FROG also works with ozonators.
Q: Can I use SPA FROG with potassium monopersulfate only?
A: No. This can create an unsafe spa as there is no EPA approved sanitizer residual in the spa. A spa with SPA FROG should maintain a 0.5 - 1 ppm of chlorine or 1 - 2 ppm bromine.
The key word here is can I use the frog with MPS ONLY. It does not say that you can't shock with MPS.
txwilllie
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Steve,
Low pH is a problem for any spa, and low pH can result from other means than using the wrong sanitizer. From a chemistry perspective it matters not how the acid was formed. The consequences to the equipment would also be the same. Heaters, pump shafts and bearings all corrode, seals fail.
Agreed, which lead me to the question: "if these same owners of these brands neglect their alkalinity (regardless of the sanitizer used) and it drops off resulting in very low pH and acidic water, will these same manufacturers provide warranty on the resulting damage created by this? If so, what is the difference in neglect between these two scenarios we are speaking of?"
I understand you are not the manufacturer but I see this as a substantial "out" for manufacturers as that loophole widens.
Your discussion of warranty vs. guarantee is neither here nor there, but it should be taken up with legal not engineering ;-) .
;D
I do agree with what you are saying Bill. I don't necessarily promote a chlorine puck system but I do know thousands of people using that system that enjoy great results with it. I guess my point is that is can be done though many (south of the boarder) ;) don't agree with it.
I'm still shocked though at the manufacturers. :o Good exchange Bill... :)
Steve
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ppm bromine.
"The key word here is can I use the frog with MPS ONLY. It does not say that you can't shock with MPS."
I see what you are saying, I missed the word "only" and now think I comprehend your question fully. My take on it seems to agree with yours, you certainly could shock with MPS as long as you do not use MPS as your only form of sanitizing.
MPS "only" is not a good choice to use regardless of the use of a Spa Frog. As a shock it is fine or if it is used daily, then use dichlor shock once a week, but don't rely on MPS alone. You are also right that bromine users tend to like MPS for shock and that is ok too, as far as I know. Dichlor is also used for shock with bromine. I have no idea if one is better than the other in this situation, but do know that dichlor and bromine can react dangerously together in dry form. So if you have both be careful how they are stored and handled.
Personally, having researched spa water treatment quite a bit, and knowing what I know about chemistry (but by the way, I am not a water chemist or a microbiologist) I am convinced that the very best option is dichlor. It is also the cheapest, and it is extremely easy to use and forgiving. The Vermonter is the guy I trust and follow on this one.
Regards,
Bill
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hey Bill,
in my area in Ontario Canada Trichlor is used for chlorine for tubs. This is what the arctic chemicals are right from the manufacturer. I went to authorized Sundance, jacuzzi, beachcomber, catalina, arctic, canspas, hydropools, and they all sell trichlor. I also called an LA spas dealer and he said trichlor as well is the product that they sell.
I find it strange that it is different like this from Canada to the US. So although you say that dichlor is for spas and trichlor is for pools, I beg to differ from my research here in Canada. Im not trying to start anything, I just want to bring it to your attention that most chlorines for spa useage is trichlor.
That is very interesting. As far as I know chemistry is identical across all borders. I am going to look, but I am pretty sure one of my books on pools and spas was published in Canada. I will report back.
Regards,
Bill
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I’m reluctant to chime in but can’t help it (its who I am). I don't see this as a "loophole" in the warranty. Why should a manufacturer cover damage to a spa due to uncontrolled water chemistry by the owner? That would be neglect just as it would be if I didn't maintain the oil in my car and had engine problems. You can find a manufacturer warranty saying they will not honor damage due to water chemistry except with their heater as they've built the heater to withstand such neglect. They haven't built the rest of the spa to withstand it (which obviously takes a good deal of neglect/time to occur) so why should they honor such damage??
It's a matter of trust.
In my case, Beachcomber trusts me to properly teach my customers how to care for their tub. I trust my customers, due in part to good advice, to stay loyal and buy their product from me. And the customer trusts Beachcomber and myself to be there for any issues that may arise. All around it's a win-win relationship.
Does it cost Beachcomber more not to exclude improper water care from the warranty - of course it does. Does the customer feel better, and provide more referrals in the long run. I certainly hope so!
Besides, if the customer refuses to properly care for their tub, they will be paying for it after the warranty is up anyway. ;D
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I totally agree with you zzaphod42 and I wish more manufactuers would see it this way. Instead, they find all the loopholes possible to protect themselves and not their customers and it pisses me off! >:(
I've never understood how a manufacturer can claim foul when the dealer hasn't done their job or has a history of watercare analysis to prove it. How do you prove neglect without it? It's a grey area and I'm glad I haven't worked for a company that needs to bring this up to someone who just spent $10,000 on a new spa 8 months ago. Guranteed they're not coming back to my store if that was the case!
Kudos to any dealer that takes care of their customers during the warranty period without trying to find ways to not cover the cost. If you think that finding these loopholes promotes long term relationships and referrals, you are dead wrong!
Steve
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I wore down by the top of the second page reading these posts so I might be a bit redundant here in saying this but.....
Tri-Chlor contains cynaric acid to stabilize it in sunlight and prevent dissapation. Cynaric acid can be caustic at higher temps which makes it a bad sanitizer in a spa!
HotSpring originally excluded Bromine as a sanitizer because they used to have a problem with the large light lens and pillows reacting poorly to it but have since changed materials and allow it.
I have preferred Chlorine for years until the new frog system came out with a stabilized bromine fed constant where you don't have the spikes. I'm using frog now and love it. It does take some time to get used to how you set it if you follow their directions but here is a simple rule of thumb;
If you have 1-2 people using the spa on a consistent basis set your frog cartridges and your filter cycles to 2. If you have 4 people using it on a consistent basis set all of the above to 3 or 4 and so on.
My only problem with the frog was the fact that you could not tell when to change it but the new Marquis have a cycle reminder to let you know!
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Marquis does have a "CL" indicator on the LCD that comes on every 30 days as a reminder to change the bromine cartridge and clean the filters, but I've found that my bromine cartridges are spent in about 3 weeks. (I set them on 2). It is also pretty easy to miss the "CL" indicator, because if you just open the cover and turn on the jets w/o looking at the LCD, the "CL" gets reset.
Next Q: What about the Spa Frog mineral cartridge? Marquis and King Technology say it lasts 3-4 months. There was a post a few days or weeks ago about N2 being ineffective after a water change since most of the minerals go out on the lawn with the old water. Is the Frog Mineral cartridge the same way? I have yet to go more than 10 weeks on a fill. Gonna drain and fill here in just a bit. Water looks great when you open the cover, perfectly clean and clear, but turn on the jets and in a few minutes it looks like milk (that is an exaggeration, but it does get quite cloudy) Turn off the jets and it is clear again in about a minute or so. Wmmcall says this is called turbidity and is cause by high TDS. So the question is, with the Spa Frog, if you change the water at say 2 months, is the mineral cartridge still good, or does it need to be changed out then as well? They are pretty expensive (seems like they are about $30 each, but I've not bought one in a while, since I stocked up when I bought the spa).
And last, how does the Bromine in the Spa Frog compare to Brilliance?
woohoo, get to try out the new sump pump!
Thanks for your help,
txwillie
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What do you have your filter cycles and smart clean set to?
When you drain and refill do you remove your cartridges?
Both of these things will directly affect how long the bromine lasts.
Your mineral cartridge should be good for 3-4 months but you have to remember that it also goes with volume. 1 ounce of silver can purify 10,000 gallons of water without introduction of bather waste so it goes down with use.
I don't know that I would drain every 2 months....Add a month to that and you will cut back on your maintenance products throughout the year.
I honestly have never used Brilliance but can tell you that the sanitation system you use is a personal preference. I have people that love Soft Soak and people that refuse to use it. Same thing with Bromine and Chlorine.
I doesn't hurt to try a couple of different ones through the year and decide then what works best for your usage and lifestyle.
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I use the tub almost every day. 45 min average, but longer on the weekends. Have it set at the factory defaults which is two 2 hour filter cycles per day plus a 1 hour cycle that starts 30 minutes after the jet pumps shut down.
The one thing that bothers me is how cloudy the water gets when the jet pumps are on. It is really just millions of tiny bubbles entrained in the water (think alka-seltzer) that dissipate once the pumps shut down. It does not do this when the water is new, starts doing this in a few weeks and only gets worse. I've tried clarifiers, but they don't make the water any more clear and they seem to cause foam. I've also tried the "I'm not putting anything in here but bromine and shock" approach. AKA the "let's not make soup" method.
Is this normal, or do I have a problem? Am I just too OCD about it? Going to get the water tested later today for TDS and then decide whether to drain or not. What is the limit on TDS?
Thanks again.
txwillie
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Without testing your water I can't tell you why your having the aeration however it's not due to the frog.
It certainly won't hurt you.
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I use the tub almost every day. 45 min average, but longer on the weekends. Have it set at the factory defaults which is two 2 hour filter cycles per day plus a 1 hour cycle that starts 30 minutes after the jet pumps shut down.
The one thing that bothers me is how cloudy the water gets when the jet pumps are on. It is really just millions of tiny bubbles entrained in the water (think alka-seltzer) that dissipate once the pumps shut down. It does not do this when the water is new, starts doing this in a few weeks and only gets worse. I've tried clarifiers, but they don't make the water any more clear and they seem to cause foam. I've also tried the "I'm not putting anything in here but bromine and shock" approach. AKA the "let's not make soup" method.
Is this normal, or do I have a problem? Am I just too OCD about it? Going to get the water tested later today for TDS and then decide whether to drain or not. What is the limit on TDS?
Thanks again.
txwillie
In a single word, Effervescence, to give off gas in small bubbles, often producing foam and a hissing sound, such as carbonated water.
Check your alkalinity and pH, leave your cover off and areate your water, turn the blower on and let it run for 20 minutes.
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Forgive my ignorance, but where does the floater go? Does is just bump around in the tub, or do you put it in the filter housing?
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Tri-Chlor contains cynaric acid to stabilize it in sunlight and prevent dissapation. Cynaric acid can be caustic at higher temps which makes it a bad sanitizer in a spa!
Am I missing something here?
TriChlor & Bromine pucks contain cyraunic acid.
Dichlor and Bromine Concentrate (whatever form of powder) contain cyraunic acid.
Perhaps it is the pH of the pucks (3/4) not the cyraunic acid that the manufacturers are concerned with....