Hot Tub Forum
Original => Hot Tub Forum => Topic started by: codfishhead on September 17, 2013, 01:37:57 pm
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I have an issue with the FLO error code. Spa Depot is telling me the pressure switch I can see isn’t replaceable. Can anyone please tell me what this switch is and where to buy one?
I have already flush the lines to insure it wasn’t an air lock. The tub starts off fine all jets and pump working. Then after the first 20 mins of running it stops and shows 3 dashes then the FLO error code. If I press the button the tub kicks on and will run and heat up for 20 mins. It doesn’t run on the slow speed just the high. Everything I’m reading tells me the Pressure switch need to be changed. Problem is SpaDepot is telling me my system doesn’t have a replaceable switch. I can see it and have already replaced the heater core. Switch is on the tube in plain sight. Can’t see a reason I can’t replace it besides maybe they don’t sell it. So I’m looking for someplace that does.
Tubs been down for a month. Could really use some help.
Thank you
Jay
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v507/codfishhead/null_zpsa1ce19da.jpg)
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Call me crazy but Im not seeing a pressure switch there?? Where/what do you think it is?
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I'm also struggling to see a flow switch in that picture.
However, if your'e adamant that there is one, then page 76 in this manual talks about adjustment.
www.netroebuck.co.uk/SpaService2.pdf
It's not for your control panel, but it might just help.
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Flow switch and pressure switch are two different things.
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Per the pics I sent to Spa Depot the white plastic part with the wire coming off it on the far right of the tube is the flow switch. For whatever reason they do not offer that part. Below is the reply when I aksed to buy the flow switch they pointed out from the pic. The swicth would be under 50 and the replacement pack is about 450.
This spa pack does not have a replaceable flo switch. It will require pack replacement. The EP1500 is the replacement I recommend.
I have access to a lab at work. They could mod the board if anyone knows how to by pass the switch.
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Flow switch on far right white plastic part. I can't find any that look like this. Seems they went standard with the round type. This tub is around 6yrs old.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v507/codfishhead/e7309e13-326a-4ad2-bb0a-905204eca7d4_zpsb8418dcc.jpg)
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I've heard stories of switches getting a build up of calcium or other contaminents.
I'd be tempted to drain the tub, and at least have a good look at the switch, maybe clean it internally.
Upload some pics of the switch it's self.
Maybe it's possible to swap out the flow switch with a later (round one ) or the heater unit with one which has a later flow switch.
Something like this.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Balboa-3-0KW-Heater-Pressure-Switch-/121027205861?pt=UK_Swimming_Pools_Hot_Tubs&hash=item1c2dc89ae5 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Balboa-3-0KW-Heater-Pressure-Switch-/121027205861?pt=UK_Swimming_Pools_Hot_Tubs&hash=item1c2dc89ae5)
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This is not a switch it is sensor on this spa pack. It is not replaeable because there is no physical switcj just a sensor that measures temperature variance over time. I had same issue same spa pack - turned out to be bad low speef capacitor
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Thank you guys. My next step is to take it out and inspect. go from there.
Anyone know if the new sensor and the old sensor send out the same signal and what that is? Any technical info on them as far as Ohms reading? Or better yet, what if I simply discount the sensor. Will it work with no signal from the sensor?
Basically looking for the easiest lowest cost fix. There’s nothing on this unit I can’t get check out from the sensor to the board. I have a bunch of Electrical engineers as well as full labs to check or test whatever. Problem is I need to give them the proper tolerance range so they know what they are looking for.
Also have access to full machine shops to modify the tube in any way to accept the newer sensor if it will work with the old board.
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Its not a physical thing that is in the heater tube. It is not s switch.
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It is a sensor that sits on the outer heater element. There is nothing inside the heater tube to replace.
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What exactly does the sensor do? As in how does it send the signal? If the wires are touching or separated does that trigger the signal? If I disconnected the sensor will that eliminate the signal and make the tub work properly? Can it be bypassed or eliminated
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Not sure how the wiring works - sorry. Might be a safety hazard if it was bypassed
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Or mores the point, what component is the sensor.
I doubt very much that the sensor is a proprietary trade secret, and is in fact just a standard electronic component ?
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Wish I knew it wasn't through the heater before I pulled the entire thing apart. :P lol O well only took 5 mins.
I removed it and still same FLO Error cam back. I looked at other Flow sensors to try to replace and they don't have the same connector. Wish I knew if I could just add a jumper to the board and b pass this. But I'm guessing it needs a signal.
Here's some pics. Anyone know where I can find this or who makes them. Pat pendind and Serial number shown below.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v507/codfishhead/null_zps078122e3.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v507/codfishhead/null_zps886b039c.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v507/codfishhead/null_zpsf62829e5.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v507/codfishhead/null_zps0f5d40ee.jpg)
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By the way, I tried getting the OEM of the sensor from Spa Depot but can’t get anyone that has that kind of knowledge or access to old parts vendors. Seems Belize is Spa Depot per all their site contact info brings me right back to Spa Depot and no help. If I can find out who manufactured this I’ll be able to find it from there.
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Quit focusing on the spa itself, it's the equipment which is Gecko. Might take you in another direction.
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JJ I'm not gay but I think i love you. :o
Hot on the track now. THX much
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Well I changed the sensor and still have the FLO error code. :P
Any other ideas of what it could cause a FLO error if not the Flow Sensor? Everything seems to work fine. Pumps, pressure, heater core. If I push the pump button it starts up and runs fine. When the 20 mins is over it doesn't go into the slow mode or cycle. That’s when the FLO error pops up. Hit the button and it runs fine again for 20 mins.
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You try running it without a filter?
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Last night I only switched the senor. Just now I replaced the entire heater core assy. And yes I just tried it all again without the filter in.
When I first turn the breaker on it runs through and the panel shows 3 dashes stuck on with 2 lights flashing on the side. Shuts down in 1 min and the dashes stay on the panel screen. I hit the power button and it fires up in high (2 speeds low and high always started on low never high). The temp is showing steady on the screen. runs for 20 mins on high then stops and FLO comes up on the screen and stays. If I hit the power again it goes for another 20 mins. No loss in power, flow, or anything else while it's running.
Any clue what I can do next?
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Can you get the main pmp to run on low or not, just high? No circ pump right? All tubs with no circ will run on low spd to heat the water, if it's going direct to high speed on a 2 spd pump (pump 1) some things up with that..
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Yes 1 pump and it won't go a slow. It looks like a standard pump motor. Same as I just bought for my pool. those aern't a 2 stage are they? I would think the high and low are control by the board.
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Look at the label on the motor itself. if it's a 2spd pump there will be 2 sets of RPMs listed one should be 1735 low 3500 high something like that. If there is only one RPM listed then it's single spd. I don't think I have ever seen a spa with 2 single spd pumps with out a circ pump.
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Sorry. Work took over my life 24/7 for a little.
So do you think this is my flo problem? Slow speed on motor is shot. I'll assume one of the large Cap on the motor is shot. Know a vendor that sells that sells these?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v507/codfishhead/null_zpsfd99f9d3.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v507/codfishhead/null_zps655d9c04.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v507/codfishhead/null_zps42cba109.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v507/codfishhead/null_zps284fd7af.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v507/codfishhead/null_zpsd2bf8cb1.jpg)
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http://m.grainger.com/mobile/details/?R=2MER5
This looks like the starter cap.
Any reason I shouldn't try to replace this? Advise
Thx
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It's worth a shot vs 350 for a new pump/motor..
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Still could be a board problem.
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Both starter capacitors read a little below their tolerances. I thought I had it. ;D
Put the 2 new Caps on the motor for 26 bucks. Put the entire works all back together for the ??? time. Same thing. Runs on high only and gives FLO error. :'(
Hey I gave it my best shot. I’ve changed the Flo senor, heater core, starter Caps on motor, and the ground wire. The display and the board are the only things left.
Do I have replacement options for a board setup? Something that will last.
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Here is where I would unplug the temp sensor and plug in a different one and stick it over the side of the tub in the water. If that didn't do it I would unplug the topside and plug in a different one I knew worked. After that your at the board. Assuming everything you did is done right?
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Temp sensor is new. Came with the hearter core assy. I switched just the Flo Sensor. then the Temp, then the entire assy. Same Flo message with all changes. Also the temp goes up when I have it running. Started at 43 and after a few 20 min runs on high it was up to 48.
Guess I'm going to bite the bullet and order the board assy.
Instead of ordering this from Spa Depot and possibly having to go through this same issue in a couple years I would like to buy a setup that will still be in production in a couple years. Is there any other companies that I can buy a setup from?