Which taylor test kit?

[BigK75]

Hey Guys:

Quick question.  I would like to buy a test kit for my new spa but don't know which one to get.  I've looking around and it seems many have the Taylor K-2005.  I would like to save some money (or else my wife will kill me ) and buy the K-1004.  Can you guys give me some guideance.  

K-1004
http://www.taylortechnologies.com/products_kitinfo.asp?&MarketID=1&KitID=2453

K-2005
http://www.taylortechnologies.com/products_kitinfo.asp?&MarketID=1&KitID=2227

Thanks,

Claude

[Chad]

I use the k-2005 kit, thanks to Vinny, and absolutely love it. I couldn't live without it.

The difference between the two is that the k-1004 doesn't have the Base Demand Test for ph, no Calcium Hardiness Test, and no Cyanuric Acid Test. It does however still do the tests for all Chlorine levels and Alkalinity. Cyanuric Acid test is not that important but imo the Calcium Hardness Test is. I think you could get by with the k-1004 and if you feel like you need more you can always upgrade and buy the other regiments you need.

[BigK75]

Thanks Why Not.  I think I will go with the K-1004 and then upgrade if needed.  If people can get away with test strips then the K-1004 should be a huge improvement.  

Claude

[Chad]

Thanks Why Not.  I think I will go with the K-1004 and then upgrade if needed.  If people can get away with test strips then the K-1004 should be a huge improvement.  

Claude

Your welcome, Claude. You will feel alot more comfortable with your test results using a Taylor kit.

[The_Pa._Lady]

The K-2005 simply because I use softened water.  The K-2005 tests for Calcium Hardness.  But if you don't need to test everything, then I guess the K-2004 is fine.  Good luck with whatever you choose.

[BigK75]

This is kind of what I was thinking.  I live in London Ontario and our water has a lot of calcium in it.  I think I will buy the K-1004 and see how it goes.

Claude

[windsurfdog]

I don't know what the cost differential is between the 2004 or the 2005 but considering you paid 6-8K for a tub and $30 or so for monthly electrical bills and a couple hundred a year on chems, etc., why would the small difference be so significant?  Get the 2005 right here:
Taylor 2005

[Chad]

Bigk75, I'd like to retract my statement from a previous post about CYA not being that important. After I did some research, thanks to CapMorgan's links, I think it is not only a good thing to measure but a very important one. You might just want to spend the extra $25-30 and be done with it. Just my 2 cents worth.

[windsurfdog]

A couple of cents worth here....

Forget about CYA and change your water every 3-4 months...CYA will never be a factor then.

[Chad]

A couple of cents worth here....

Forget about CYA and change your water every 3-4 months...CYA will never be a factor then.

WSD, what are your thoughts about spa water, high in CYA, demanding more chlorine? I'm asking b/c after about 2 months my water has been demanding alot more dichlor to get the same FC reading opposed to the first month. Btw, my CYA is 110-120.

[windsurfdog]

WSD, what are your thoughts about spa water, high in CYA, demanding more chlorine? I'm asking b/c after about 2 months my water has been demanding alot more dichlor to get the same FC reading opposed to the first month. Btw, my CYA is 110-120.

Without my Taylor book in front of me and since I don't ever think of CYA (I don't think I've ever tested for it in 2.5 years of spa operation), I don't know what the recommended limits are.  With my spa, 1 tsp. of All Clear 62% dichlor in my 450 gal. tub raises FC about 1.5 ppm.  I normally use 2 tsp. after soaking, a little more after the in-laws grace us with their presence, a little less if solo soaks are spaced close together.  I've never seen my water demand more chlorine as you describe.  I generally shock once every 10 days or so with either MPS or dichlor....MPS if I need to drop pH a bit or dichlor if I will be away from the tub an extended period of time....otherwise, either will do.  So, with my usage, I really haven't experienced what you are experiencing.  A couple of questions, though....what are your other readings....pH, TA, CH?  How do all the readings fall when you use the Taylor Water Wheel (which is based on the Langlier Index)?  What type of dichlor do you use?  What is the percentage of active chlorine (56 or 62)?  Here's the All Clear instructions.  Maybe they will help.   8-)

[txwillie]

I've always just used strips and then take the water to Leslie's or another pool place if I have water quality problems. Sorry, but I'm lazy. IMO sweating the chemistry too much is a big hassle and leads to over medicating the spa.

txwillie

[tony]

I've always just used strips and then take the water to Leslie's or another pool place if I have water quality problems. Sorry, but I'm lazy. IMO sweating the chemistry too much is a big hassle and leads to over medicating the spa.

txwillie

Although I understand where you are comming from, I've learned (and I can't take credit for this statement...I got it from somewhere else) you're best off if you do a little research and be your own chemist.  You can't always trust the results or advise of a pool store.

With that statement, I vote for the K-2005.

[Chad]

 A couple of questions, though....what are your other readings....pH, TA, CH?  How do all the readings fall when you use the Taylor Water Wheel (which is based on the Langlier Index)?  What type of dichlor do you use?  What is the percentage of active chlorine (56 or 62)?  Here's the All Clear instructions.  Maybe they will help.   8-)

Taylor recommends 30-50ppm of CYA. Mine is now 120? after 9 weeks.
My other levels have always been great, never out or range. I use a k-2005. I keep my ph at 7.4-7.5 and my alk at 100. I've only had to adjust them once in 8 weeks. My water has been very good to me. The only thing that is throwing me a curveball now is the increased dichlor demand. I think it may be due to my high CYA as I have thoroughly looked for any abnormal growth, soaked filters, and shocked the pants off of it. I read in an article that high CYA levels will increase dichlor demand. Tony wrote me an excellent explanation in another thread about this and I'm thinking that it's the cause of my increased demand.
Btw, my CH is 250 and I use Spa 56 dichlor from LT. 55% active chlorine. I also did the test that tells you when it's time for a water change. Gallons of tub divided by 3, then take that number and divide it by your average daily bather load. Result = amount of days you should get btw fills. Mine was 112 days. It's only been 56. Water still feels good and clears fast after jets are turned off.

Thanks

[windsurfdog]

Another thought...what is your current TDS?  I know the 2005 doesn't test for TDS but I've got some strips that came from Doc that test for it though I've only tested for it a couple of times in a year or so...once again, the 4 month change gets it before it becomes critical.

When you measure FC and you find close to 0 ppm, then you add a tsp. of the 56, what is the ppm after 20 minutes of circulation?  After measuring that, if you were to add another tsp., what would the ppm be after another 20 min.?  I'd like to get a measurable idea of the demand problem you are experiencing.  And I might break down and measure my own CYA and see what it currently says (my water is about 3-4 weeks from a fresh fill)--give me 'til the weekend.