OOps, did MPS instead of Chlorine for startup

[nlittle]

Hi
In my guide I was supposed to super chlorinate my 325 gal tub with 3tbls chlorine...I grabbed the wrong jar and used MPS...
Does it matter?  Can I still put my chlorine in now or do I have to wait?
DOH!

[jfish63]

I don't think it is a big deal. I would wait at least until the pumps ran for 30 minutes before adding chlorine. Better yet I would get in a soak first.

[nlittle]

LOL...if it was warm enough I would take a soak.
I ran the clean cycle which is 10 minutes so I will wait a bit for the chlorine.

[The_Pa._Lady]

I agree with Jfish, add your Chlorine later.  What outside temp are you at?  We are at 33 degrees, it was 15 earlier, still too cold to soak.  40 is ok.  

Good Luck.

[wmccall]

I agree with Jfish, add your Chlorine later.  What outside temp are you at?  We are at 33 degrees, it was 15 earlier, still too cold to soak.  40 is ok.  

Good Luck.

Too cold to soak?  Only if you don't arrive at the tub alive!   (Unless your tub is 100 yards from your door.   4F is the coldest day we have had since we bought our tub.

[Tyheethan]

I agree with Jfish, add your Chlorine later.  What outside temp are you at?  We are at 33 degrees, it was 15 earlier, still too cold to soak.  40 is ok.  

Good Luck.

Coldest soak yet for me is +5.  Forcast for this weekend is -10...............I can't wait!

[nlittle]

Sorry for the confusion...not too cold outside.  The water isn't warm enough yet.  
We just set it up last night and it is on 115v so it will probably take awhile still...

[Vermonter]

Hi nlittle,

I have two comments regarding your situation:

1)  First Use of Tub - watch out for residual water from the manufacturer:

If this is your first "fill", then it is very, very important (in my opinion) that you perform a thorough "disinfection" of your tub before you use it.  I realize this goes against the "I can't wait to use my new tub" emotion, but hear me out...  

It sounds like you have a HS tub (based on your comment about the "clean" cycle).  I also have a HS - but it really doesn't matter.  Tubs are "wet tested" at the factory to make sure pumps, valves, etc. are working and that there aren't major leaks.  My understanding is that fresh, disinfected water is NOT used for this testing.  Rather, some pretty old water may be used - water that may be laden with microbes (viruses, bacteria, perhaps protozoans and a few other categories).  After the tub is "tested", the lines and pumps / valves are not blown out so there is residual water left behind.  

When you get your tub and conduct the first fill, this water is still contained in the tub's plumbing and, depending on time, conditions and type of microbe, whatever is in this water can multiply.  So, you fill your tub with fresh water and think you're fine - but when you turn on your pumps, this potentially dirty (microbe-laden) water is suddenly dumped into your clean water and you COULD have a problem.   Side note:  unrelated to microbes, this water can also drive you crazy with foaming and difficult chemical balancing.  Although I didn't know this with my tub, I now recommend an intial fill, turn on pumps, disinfect and then drain and refill - even without the microbe issue.

Despite your desire to get in your first soak, it would be very wise (again, my opinion, but backed by reading of "first soak" microbe disasters on other boards) to perform a thorough chlorine disinfection of your tub.  Basically, a "shock" dose with all pumps, valves and other wetted surfaces receiving contact with the chlorinated water.  I'd circulate the water for at least 2 hours.  If you  want, you can get in the water even if the chlorine is still in the 5 - 10 ppm range, but if you have sensitive skin, you may want to wait until the chlorine drops.  There are a couple of ways you can knock down the chlorine in a hurry - but there are potential problems with that.

Keep in mind - MPS is not a disinfectant in any way.  You could put 10 pounds into your tub and if you have E. coli, Pseudomonas, Mycobacterium, etc. present, it won't do anything to kill them.

2)  A shortcoming of the "clean" feature in HS tubs:

Assuming you have a HS tub and assuming that it is a two pump version, then unless HS has changed their approach, when you use the "clean" cycle, it only operates one of the two pumps (and the related valves, diverters, etc.).  This is the case in my 2001 Grandee and I believe (not sure) that it is still the case.  So, whenever you perform your routine dosing or shock/disinfection, I recommend that you manually turn on both pumps / pump trains, open up all valves, etc. so that every "wetted" surface within the hot tub (hidden plumbing included) is exposed to the chlorine.  

If you don't - let's say you operate just the "clean" cycle and it only turns on one pump - then you would have a whole pump and all it's associate plumbing that is not being disinfected.  It sits there for a night, or two, or a week...with microbes unchecked in a warm environment...and, when you use the tub the next time and active that pump, you can dump in several liters (or more) of microbe laden water into the tub water that you are trying to enjoy.  This could equate to many billions of organisms.  

Would it always be a problem?  Probably not, but I, for one, don't want to take that chance given that all you need to do is run both pumps for about 10 minutes after you add your normal "after soak" chlorine.

Best,

Vermonter

[jfish63]

I never even thought of that. I've had 2 used tubs so both of mine were fill, sanitize, dump, and refill. Maybe there should be a sticky on this forum for newbies with tubs. Call it "everything you should have asked ".

[kervis]

2)  A shortcoming of the "clean" feature in HS tubs:

Assuming you have a HS tub and assuming that it is a two pump version, then unless HS has changed their approach, when you use the "clean" cycle, it only operates one of the two pumps (and the related valves, diverters, etc.).  This is the case in my 2001 Grandee and I believe (not sure) that it is still the case.  So, whenever you perform your routine dosing or shock/disinfection, I recommend that you manually turn on both pumps / pump trains, open up all valves, etc. so that every "wetted" surface within the hot tub (hidden plumbing included) is exposed to the chlorine.  

If you don't - let's say you operate just the "clean" cycle and it only turns on one pump - then you would have a whole pump and all it's associate plumbing that is not being disinfected.  It sits there for a night, or two, or a week...with microbes unchecked in a warm environment...and, when you use the tub the next time and active that pump, you can dump in several liters (or more) of microbe laden water into the tub water that you are trying to enjoy.  This could equate to many billions of organisms.  

Would it always be a problem?  Probably not, but I, for one, don't want to take that chance given that all you need to do is run both pumps for about 10 minutes after you add your normal "after soak" chlorine.

Best,

Vermonter

I remembered this being mentioned a couple months back.  Ever since then, at the end of the evening,  I hit both of the jets buttons, (not the clean button) open my water feature, and go back inside for 10 minutes.  It has totally eliminated the surprises I used to find when I opened my cover after several days of non-use.  This one little bit of advice has made my tub care SO MUCH EASIER that it's scary.  

If I open the tub expecting cloudy water, I know ahead of time, because I forgot, slacked off, or both.  I do not have unexpected cloudy water any more.  8-)

[nlittle]

Hi nlittle,

2)  A shortcoming of the "clean" feature in HS tubs:

Assuming you have a HS tub and assuming that it is a two pump version, then unless HS has changed their approach, when you use the "clean" cycle, it only operates one of the two pumps (and the related valves, diverters, etc.).  This is the case in my 2001 Grandee and I believe (not sure) that it is still the case.  So, whenever you perform your routine dosing or shock/disinfection, I recommend that you manually turn on both pumps / pump trains, open up all valves, etc. so that every "wetted" surface within the hot tub (hidden plumbing included) is exposed to the chlorine.  

Thanks Vermonter!  I do have the 2 setting jets.  So I guess when I shock I will run the clean cycle but change the jet setting 1/2 way through that way everything will get clean.   I think I have to wait about 24 hours after I put the MPS in otherwise the chlorine will do nothing, right?   The tub is on 115v and is STILL not "ready" so it's not that big of a deal to wait until tomorrow to chlorine shock.
It is very hard to wait though!

[Vermonter]

   I think I have to wait about 24 hours after I put the MPS in otherwise the chlorine will do nothing, right?  

nlittle,

I am not aware of any reason why MPS would adversely affect chlorine.  Perhaps someone else has specific knowledge on this?  I also recall that some MPS has chlorine in it; assuming my recollection is correct, then that would argue against the two being incompatible.

I'll try to track some info down, but it may be a few hours before I can do so.  I really think you can go ahead and shock now.

Best,

Vermonter

[Vermonter]

nlittle,

A quick check and MPS comes as an "Enhanced Shock" (the name depends on the brand) and it does contain dichlor although it looks like it doesn't result in a normal "shock" level of chlorine.

I would use dichlor and shock to 10 ppm or above, circulate everything (keep your cover open) for a couple of hours (to help eliminate a biofilm, if present, and then check to see when the chlorine drops to about two or less and you should be fine.

If you can, with the heat off is fine, shock higher (even to 20+ ppm (dilute with bottled water to get the reading in the range of your test strips or other measurement technique), circulate for two hours, drain and refill.  Add enough chlorine to get to 2 - 3 ppm and then either use the tub or wait for the free chlorine to drop.  If you add chlorine to achieve 2 - 3 ppm FC after you use the tub, then it usually will have a FC level of less than 1 ppm the next day when you would likely use the tub.

Vermonter

[nlittle]

Thanks again!
I have just opened her up and added the chlorine.  I will let it cycle thru for awhile and then switch it to the other jets and let it go again.   I have to say I'm not sure if I can let it run for 2 hours on each cycle but I will be as patient as I can.   I have already accepted there will be no getting in the new spa today.    But there is always tomorrow...assuming it is up to temp by then!   :-?

[Tatooed_Lady]

Vermonter - yes, as of 2006, the HS Grandee still has 2 pumps, and the '07 has 2 pumps, but the different water feature makes one a 2 stage.
People thought I was nuts when I first filled my tub, because the dealer told me 2 Tbsp of dichlor after filling. It raised my chlorine levels past 10ppm for a couple days, but I was sure everything that MAY have been left to breed in the plumbing was dead....It may have been overkill, but I haven't had any weird rashes appear, so I'm okay with the extra time it took.
I also use the "clean" button after soaking, if it's been a short soak. However, I've found that the most water to flush the system is by opening the diverter valves to the 1/2 way point so all the jets blow. They might not each push water through as quickly, but the water level by the filters is substantially lower than if I have the valves open fully one way or the other.
I try to take the info I get on here and use it as it best works for our situation, YMMV.