HS Jetsetter 110V vs. 220V

[Mr. Dutch]

Hi Gang.  I wet-tested the Bullfrog 331 and HS Jetsetter today. The Bullfrog 331 had some nice jets, but I liked the power and fit of the Jetsetter better.  Anyhow, I now have to decide on 110 or 220.  It's going to be outside, so I was thinking 220.  However, the tub I sat in today was 110 and it had a lot of power.  I don't mind if the tub cools a little while I'm in it, but I do want it to stay hot.  Does a small tub like this really need 220?  Any thoughts? (For those of you who have been following my decision-making process, the dealer was a factor also.  #1 - they are in town vs. 30 miles away.  #2 - they were much more knowledgeable, have been in business much longer, and they treated me better!)  

[drewstar]

It's not the Jet power that's the consideration in a 110 set up, it the heater.  A 110V set up wont allow you to run the heater and the jets at the same time.  

If you are going to put this tub outside then 220 is the way to go. When you are using the tub is when it looses the most heat, the cover is off, the water is being churned (more surface area exposed to the air and wind) and after a few minutes, you will be loosing heat.  If you are in cool to cold region, then I don't think you should even consider anything other than 220.

If the tub is inside (like how you tested it.   ) or you live in a hot enviroment  say miami or Tuscon, then maybe it would ok. But for a few hundred dollars more, I think  a 220 set up is going to give you the best performance off the heater (it's a hot tub after all as well as allow you to fully enjoy the tub under any conditions.
 

Where are you located?

[Webini]

We had the same decision and went with the 110 on our new Jetsetter, at least for this winter.  We're in Maine.

I talked with a couple of other HS owners in the area that run 110 and it has beem OK for them.  We'll see how it goes.  It was 30 degrees the other night and my wife and I were in the tub for 30+ minutes with the jets on the entire time and we only dropped from 104 to 102.  That was fine with us.

For us to run 220 it was not a couple hundred $, it was more like $1,000.

[drewstar]

We had the same decision and went with the 110 on our new Jetsetter, at least for this winter.  We're in Maine.

I talked with a couple of other HS owners in the area that run 110 and it has beem OK for them.  We'll see how it goes.  It was 30 degrees the other night and my wife and I were in the tub for 30+ minutes with the jets on the entire time and we only dropped from 104 to 102.  That was fine with us.

For us to run 220 it was not a couple hundred $, it was more like $1,000.

Wow Webini, thanks for the info. I was under the impression that it didn't cost THAT much for the jumper upgrade. (or did you include the 220v outlet installed by an electrician? And if so, how long of run did the electriacan have to run from circuit panel to sub panel to the tub?)

I am amazed the folks in the dead of winter (maine no less!) are reporting using thier tub with the heater off, only loose 2 degrees of temp over 30 minutes.  That is amazing.

Yes, please do report back with your winter experinces, as this question comes up quite a bit.

[hottubdan]

Webini said it all.  

[Spatech_tuo]

It's going to be outside, so I was thinking 220.    

If "outside" is Hawaii, Vegas or Miami then I'd say either way (with 220V still being the better option) but if it gets cold where you are then definitely 220V.

[Spiderman]

I didn't even consider the 110 for our Jetsetter here in Upper Michigan.  I suppose if you keep your temp at 102 or higher before getting in, then you might be OK for 1/2 hour in warmer temps, but once it gets cold out, 10 degrees or colder, I would like to know how long your water stays comfortable.  I'm guess at 5, 0, or below 0, your temp won't stay hot too long with the cover off.  Even with the heater running, it may drop some and colder temps.

We sat in the tub last night with some pesky wind and a set temp of 100 F   After a few minutes, I had to bump it up to 101 F and after about 15 minutes it was nice and toasty; too hot actually for us.   I think what happens is even at a set temp of 100F, the water may only be 98 or 99 when we first get in, so it takes a little bit to warm up to 100 or 101.

If you can install the sub panel yourself, or get some help from a friend, do the 220.  You'll never be sorry with 220, but you might be sorry with the 110.  Or, try the 110, see how it goes and if need be, upgrade to the 220.    

[Webini]

We had the same decision and went with the 110 on our new Jetsetter, at least for this winter.  We're in Maine.

I talked with a couple of other HS owners in the area that run 110 and it has beem OK for them.  We'll see how it goes.  It was 30 degrees the other night and my wife and I were in the tub for 30+ minutes with the jets on the entire time and we only dropped from 104 to 102.  That was fine with us.

For us to run 220 it was not a couple hundred $, it was more like $1,000.

Wow Webini, thanks for the info. I was under the impression that it didn't cost THAT much for the jumper upgrade. (or did you include the 220v outlet installed by an electrician? And if so, how long of run did the electriacan have to run from circuit panel to sub panel to the tub?)

I am amazed the folks in the dead of winter (maine no less!) are reporting using thier tub with the heater off, only loose 2 degrees of temp over 30 minutes.  That is amazing.

Yes, please do report back with your winter experinces, as this question comes up quite a bit.

The cost was for 220 run by an electrician, about 25' with a new sub-panel.  No way I am running that myself.

It seems to work for us having the tub at 104 and then letting it cool a bit.  At 5 degrees in January we may feel differently, but we decided that we would not spend the money for 220 unless we needed to.  Other Jetsetter owners around here have been OK at 110.  I would not try 110 up here on a bigger tub though!

[drewstar]

I agree, the tub size is probably a significant factor.


How much does a 110 v Jetsetter from the dealer cost vs A 220? I thought the price (not includeing electrial work) was negliaable.

Is it simply a jumper change, or are other things involed?

[Webini]

I agree, the tub size is probably a significant factor.


How much does a 110 v Jetsetter from the dealer cost vs A 220? I thought the price (not includeing electrial work) was negliaable.

Is it simply a jumper change, or are other things involed?

It is a jumper change as far as I know so no charge there.  There is a panel that you may have to buy - don't know the cost of that.  The electrical work cost was the issue for us, not the tub cost differential.

I'll report back how it works out during the winter.

[tileman]

My 240v 60 amp hot tub panel only cost $87.00. The price of the smaller panel was maybe only $20 less. The wire can range from $1.50-2.00 a ft. I think a $1000 is ridiculus, but then again one of my best friends is a electician in the IBEW so all I had to pay for was materials. My total cost for a 50 ft application was $170. Talk about a good friend to have. It only took him 2 hrs. That means that guy was charging you about $400 an hour.
Did you shop around to see if his estimate was reasonable compared to others?

[lawdawgva]

I have my Sovreign wired 110.  This is a pretty substantial tub with seating for 6 and a 355 gal. capacity.  I live in SW VA where the winters can get pretty cold and snowy.  Last winter was my first winter with the tub and I was wondering how the 110 set up was going to work for me.  My brother is an electrician and he said if I didn't like it, he'd wire it up 220 later.  

Happy to say I had absolutely no problems.  Even on some of the coldest nights and I'm talking low teens to single digits, after about a 45 min. soak I went from 104 to about 102.  So needless to say I've left things as they are.  Each person will have to make their own decision but I just wanted to let you know what my experience has been.

-Law Dawg

[Silent Water]

Isn't it true that the 110Vconfiguration will actually cost you more in the long-run because of the power demand?

Consider that a heater running on 110V must be working harder (than 220V) just to maintain the temperature of your tub.  If the heater demands power more often or for longer periods at a time, won't your electric bill take a noticeable jump?

I'm pretty sure that HS would have done this comparisson already.  Maybe one of their dealers can tell you which is less expensive - and by how much.

[lawdawgva]

Silent Water, I actually did ask my brother about that when we were setting it up.  He said that basically my heater will only work at 1500w if wired to 110 and would work at 6000w if wired to 220.

The external factors of heat loss are the same (time used, top open, temperature, etc.) whether you are wired 110 or 220.  So basically you're looking at the heater drawing 1500w for a longer period of time or 6000w for a shorter period of time.  In either case my brother said the difference would be pennies on the dollar.  I am inclined to agree as my electrical operating costs average about 10 to 15 dollars a month depending on usage and summer vs. winter.  I can't imagine getting them any lower than that.

-Law Dawg

[Webini]

My 240v 60 amp hot tub panel only cost $87.00. The price of the smaller panel was maybe only $20 less. The wire can range from $1.50-2.00 a ft. I think a $1000 is ridiculus, but then again one of my best friends is a electician in the IBEW so all I had to pay for was materials. My total cost for a 50 ft application was $170. Talk about a good friend to have. It only took him 2 hrs. That means that guy was charging you about $400 an hour.
Did you shop around to see if his estimate was reasonable compared to others?

The $1000 (actually $980) was the cheapest of 4 quotes.  4 hours labor + materials.  All the quotes came out the same in terms of labor hours, the only difference was cost per hour.