Clorine at .5/1.5ppm or 3/5ppm

[Joel T]

Just got our Coleman 482 running Saturday afternoon. Besides reading the forums, I've only got 2 days or so of this chemical stuff under my belt with our new Spa. Not certain yet, but it seems so far that at night, after the last soak, 3 teaspoons of Diclore will after 10 minutes or so, give a suggested Clorine level of 5ppm. Then it's zero the next morning. It was suggested by the dealer to use a Leisure time spa frog and I could just get that dosing level to .5 or 1.5 or so.  I asked what minerals were in the thing and he looked at me funny. The web site doesn't say what's in it either. Though curious, I'm not using the frog thing. I'm trying to keep things clean and simple. Vermonter suggests 2-3ppm of clorine.  My wife doesn't want purple hair or bleached clothes but what's a safe after dose level, and is that the only time it's to be that high and the only time purple hair's a threat? (What the heck, kids like purple hair.)

Also, after 26oz of Sodium Bisulfate the pH and TA are 7.2 and 90. We'll watch which way they go from there.  I eased to those numbers using 3 0r 6 tbls at a time. Providing the virgin well water tests the same can I add that 26oz all at once after the next refill so we can get into the tub quicker?

Thanks

Joel

[Reese]

I have the same high pH/TA problem, and add a similar amount of acid over the course of the first few days.  You don't need to wait for a perfect pH to start using the tub, just make sure to include a stain/scale product at start up, and use more dichlor until you get the pH down, since it isn't very effective above pH 7.5.

  Some people use muriatic acid to offset the carbonates quicker/cheaper, so I suppose adding more dry acid at a time wouldn't hurt, BUT... If you do it, know you are increasing the risk of undiluted acid reaching the components and damaging something.  Perhaps a pre-dilution would be in order.  Also regardless of schedule, remember to turn all the pumps off (including a circ pump if you have it) for awhile to allow the acid to disperse, and not be drawn in in "slug".

  Regarding your concerns on dichlor dose, when you apply that 3-5 ppm after use, it dissipates by the time you use it the next day, so you are soaking in little or no chlorine.  By doing it that way, you should maintain a clean tub, but have few concerns about suits or purple hair.  It sounds as though you may be able to cut back your dose to 2 tsp and still get the 3ppm, 20 minutes after application, that you are shooting for.

The Frog system and Nature 2 use silver ions (along with something else in the frog -- copper or zinc?) to help the dichlor kill more effectively and slow bacteria growth between dichlor doses.  I view it as a supplement to the dichlor routine that provides me with a little cushion for inadequate or missed doses.  Although you may get away with a little less dichlor (some people do use .5-1.5 ppm successfully for light usage), IMO that is not the main benefit.  As WSD says: "Spare the dichlor, and spoil the hot-tub". 8-)

[Vinny]

I use 1.5 PPM per person up to a max of 4.5 PPM (1 to 3 teaspoons) and have good results. I don't use a Frog or N2 and although I do use ozone I have run the tub without it with the same results.

I wouldn't go below 1.5 PPM though as you run the risk of not killing enough bacteria to keep the tub clean.

I would cut back the doseage and be aware that at any given time the dose that you used may not be enough even though it worked for weeks. Chlorine residue is a great indicator that you used enough, if there's chlorine in the tub the next morning (or 8 hours later) you've used enough.

[hottub.pool_boy]

If you have 0.5ppm residual of free chlorine it's safe. Industry standard is 1-5ppm. As long as it's something...go for it!

[windsurfdog]

I have the same high pH/TA problem, and add a similar amount of acid over the course of the first few days.  You don't need to wait for a perfect pH to start using the tub, just make sure to include a stain/scale product at start up, and use more dichlor until you get the pH down, since it isn't very effective above pH 7.5.

 Â Some people use muriatic acid to offset the carbonates quicker/cheaper, so I suppose adding more dry acid at a time wouldn't hurt, BUT... If you do it, know you are increasing the risk of undiluted acid reaching the components and damaging something.  Perhaps a pre-dilution would be in order.  Also regardless of schedule, remember to turn all the pumps off (including a circ pump if you have it) for awhile to allow the acid to disperse, and not be drawn in in "slug".

 Â Regarding your concerns on dichlor dose, when you apply that 3-5 ppm after use, it dissipates by the time you use it the next day, so you are soaking in little or no chlorine.  By doing it that way, you should maintain a clean tub, but have few concerns about suits or purple hair.  It sounds as though you may be able to cut back your dose to 2 tsp and still get the 3ppm, 20 minutes after application, that you are shooting for.

The Frog system and Nature 2 use silver ions (along with something else in the frog -- copper or zinc?) to help the dichlor kill more effectively and slow bacteria growth between dichlor doses.  I view it as a supplement to the dichlor routine that provides me with a little cushion for inadequate or missed doses.  Although you may get away with a little less dichlor (some people do use .5-1.5 ppm successfully for light usage), IMO that is not the main benefit.  As WSD says: "Spare the dichlor, and spoil the hot-tub". 8-)

Hey, reese, thanks for the quote!  Excellent advice though I have to ask why you feel Joel would need to make sure to use a stain and scale control product at startup.  Would you suggest doing this at each new fill as well?  I'm also a big proponent of the "rule of least"...the least amount of chems, the better...don't use any more than you know you need.  I've never used any stain and scale control but, then again, my water comes from a municipal water supply.  Are you suggesting he use it because of his well water or do you suggest it as a general matter of course?  Once again, I really liked your response--great advice! 8-)

[Reese]

I have to ask why you feel Joel would need to make sure to use a stain and scale control product at startup.  Would you suggest doing this at each new fill as well?  Are you suggesting he use it because of his well water or do you suggest it as a general matter of course?

I suggest it because his water starts out high pH/TA like mine, and if he has much calcium hardness in the water, it is more likely to precipitate out as the tub warms up.  Since he seemed concerned about using the tub before he had the water balanced, I suggested the stain/scale as a preventative measure to let him use the tub without worrying about scale.  With my high pH/TA/CH water, I use it at fill, and every two weeks as preventative maintenance.  I find that it keeps my spinner jets from getting sticky.

I just realized that I should have offered another of your signature recommendations -- namely the use of unbuffered MPS as a shock until the ph/TA come down.  The low pH of the MPS can help reduce the amount of acid required. 8-)

Thanks for the kind words!

[Joel T]

I should add that I had to add 14oz of Calcium increaser to get CA to around 200/250ppm. I should be able to pass on the stain and scale stuff.

Thanks for all the input guys.

Joel

[SerjicalStrike]

If you have 0.5ppm residual of free chlorine it's safe. Industry standard is 1-5ppm. As long as it's something...go for it!

That all depends on when yout test it.   0.5ppm the day AFTER you add the chlorine?  Good.  0.5 ppm 5 minutes after you addit?  Bad.