Switching to dichlor, N2

[devilwoman]

Switching from soft soak as posted previously:

Here is my plan for startup - please let me know if this sounds right.  

Here is my plan for Startup:
1. Use Swirl Away in the process of dumping my tub (475gal Dove Canyon).

2. Wash and clean the tub thoroughly wiping down with windex. I have read on several sites that windex will be fine to wipe down the tub after water is drained out. If this is not the case please let me know.

3. Clean filters.

4. Refill tub (have heard some people use Metal Out but I don't understand why...do I really need to use this? Artesian company suggests using it, so if someone can tell me why and it's importance I will include this in my process.

5. Replace filters and put in N2 stick.

6. After tub is full, balance the PH and Alk.

7. Add approx 3 tablespoons of dichlor as shock (Can you use MSP and which one would be best for startup?) while running all jets. Shoot for 2-3ppm of Free chlorine. About how long will I need to wait until I can get into the tub? What should the reading be inorder to jump in?

Daily Dosing:
1. After using the tub add 1-2 tespoons of dichlor,depending upon my tubs "chlorine demand" (to find out what my tub's needs are I would need to measure the free chlorine after dosing and thoroughly mixing for about 10-15 minutes to see if it falls to 2-3ppm and then it needs to stay at that level for a couple of hours. And do this the first 2-3 days to get an idea of how much dichlor I need to actually use after each soak. Is this correct?

Week to 10days:

1. Continue to check PH and ALK to keep levels in line. PH no lower than 7.2 and no higher than 7.5. My city water here in Alaska is very high @ Ph 8.0. My understanding is that the dichlor and MPS will lower PH is that correct?

2. shock with either dichlor or MPS approx 7x that of your normal daily dose.

3.Clean filters.

Does this sound like the right plan of action? Also, how often do you use MPS over dichlor in shocking. It seems some people just use dichlor to shock while others use MPS. Is the advantage here only that you dont have to wait as long after adding MPS before you can take a soak?

If I have missed anything please let me know? Also, I have read that some people for their daily dosing add the chemicals before they get in instead of after they've soaked...does it matter?

I do appreciate your help and confirmation of this process.  I have posted this on some other sites to get a general idea of whether I am on the right track.

Thanks,
devil

[Tatooed_Lady]

if Metal Out is the same as Metal Gon, it's because of the iron and other metals in your tap water....I forget if it suspends and clumps it so the filters can get it, or exactly how it works....but I know my HS dealer said that's the first thing to use when filling.

[Bill_Stevenson]

In general you are on the right track.  Depending on your hardness you may need to adjust that.  Ask your dealer or chemical supplier to go over your program to make sure you are not missing something.  Water chemistry has to start with the water in your area.  That makes it difficult for me (South Florida) to know exactly what you might need to adjust.  

As far as MPS is concerned, you really don't need it at all.  Dichlor is more effective by far both initially and for weekly shock.

Regards,

Bill

[Tatooed_Lady]

oh yeah.....THAT was why he told me to use it.....we've got VERY hard water here....

[hymbaw]

I've always been told to never use ammonia based products(i.e. Windex) on acrylic shells.

[hymbaw]

I've always been told to never use ammonia based products(i.e. Windex) on acrylic shells.

[windsurfdog]

As far as MPS is concerned, you really don't need it at all.  Dichlor is more effective by far both initially and for weekly shock.

Bill is correct about not needing MPS....but if you want to shock and be able to re-enter the water without having to wait for chlorine levels to drop, as you would with dichlor, then MPS is an excellent alternative.  Entering the water between 30 minutes to an hour after shocking is a major advantage over dichlor shock.  One other advantage I've found.....if your pH is high and needs adjusting down, unbuffered MPS will shock and help lower pH....unbuffered MPS pH is between 3-4.  The biggest drawback to MPS use is its contribution to total dissolved solids (TDS) which is much greater than using dichlor.  I prefer to use either MPS or dichlor depending on the situation as outlined in the parameters stated above.  Correct......you don't need MPS but you may prefer it at times over dichlor.

As for your initial fill, I see no need to shock a freshly filled tub.  Shocking oxidizes chloramines and you should have no chloramines with fresh fill.  I simply add 2-3 tsp. of dichlor after the fill, run all pumps for 10 min. or so and jump right in after the temp settles in....good to go.

[Spatech_tuo]

I've always been told to never use ammonia based products(i.e. Windex) on acrylic shells.

I've always been told Windex is fine but never use alcohol based products on the shell.

[devilwoman]

Bill is correct about not needing MPS....but if you want to shock and be able to re-enter the water without having to wait for chlorine levels to drop, as you would with dichlor, then MPS is an excellent alternative.  Entering the water between 30 minutes to an hour after shocking is a major advantage over dichlor shock.  One other advantage I've found.....if your pH is high and needs adjusting down, unbuffered MPS will shock and help lower pH....unbuffered MPS pH is between 3-4.  The biggest drawback to MPS use is its contribution to total dissolved solids (TDS) which is much greater than using dichlor.  I prefer to use either MPS or dichlor depending on the situation as outlined in the parameters stated above.  Correct......you don't need MPS but you may prefer it at times over dichlor.

As for your initial fill, I see no need to shock a freshly filled tub.  Shocking oxidizes chloramines and you should have no chloramines with fresh fill.  I simply add 2-3 tsp. of dichlor after the fill, run all pumps for 10 min. or so and jump right in after the temp settles in....good to go.

Ok...thats the kind of infor I was looking for.  Thanks windsurfdog.  I appreciate your help.  Thanks to others who have posted as well.  Also Windsurfdog what do you suggest to use to clean the shell once the water has been drained...or is there a need to clean and polish it?  Thanks again

[windsurfdog]

Ok...thats the kind of infor I was looking for.  Thanks windsurfdog.  I appreciate your help.  Thanks to others who have posted as well.  Also Windsurfdog what do you suggest to use to clean the shell once the water has been drained...or is there a need to clean and polish it?  Thanks again

You are most welcome.

I haven't seen the need to clean or polish any part of the shell below the waterline on my own spa.....it still looks like day one after 1.5 years.  For areas that need a little cleaning at/above the waterline, I use a Tub Rub that can be found at Doc's store here:
Tub Rub
For everything else, 303 Aerospace Protectant is the way to go.

[Tatooed_Lady]

I've always been told Windex is fine but never use alcohol based products on the shell.

I was told that Glass Plus and Windex are fine on the shell....  

[devilwoman]

Bill is correct about not needing MPS....but if you want to shock and be able to re-enter the water without having to wait for chlorine levels to drop, as you would with dichlor, then MPS is an excellent alternative.  Entering the water between 30 minutes to an hour after shocking is a major advantage over dichlor shock.  One other advantage I've found.....if your pH is high and needs adjusting down, unbuffered MPS will shock and help lower pH....unbuffered MPS pH is between 3-4.  The biggest drawback to MPS use is its contribution to total dissolved solids (TDS) which is much greater than using dichlor.  I prefer to use either MPS or dichlor depending on the situation as outlined in the parameters stated above.  Correct......you don't need MPS but you may prefer it at times over dichlor.

As for your initial fill, I see no need to shock a freshly filled tub.  Shocking oxidizes chloramines and you should have no chloramines with fresh fill.  I simply add 2-3 tsp. of dichlor after the fill, run all pumps for 10 min. or so and jump right in after the temp settles in....good to go.

So then what is the acceptable chlorine level before you can safely use your tub...or does that matter. I am just looking for a base measurement that I can shoot for...do you wait until it is at 0 or is it 2-3ppm, should I test the water before I get in or do you take it on faith that it is ok.  I'm just a little confused.  Obviously when you get out and put your dichlor in you cant use the tub until the next day or can you use it later that day when it reaches a certain level...these may be stupid questions but I feel I am going into this somewhat blind.  I think I will have the tools but knowing what they all mean is another thing...does that make sense?