Not a new tub owner but new to baqua spa

[whitmfi]

Had a tub years ago so feel out of the loop.. baqua spa was recommended for the tub but CANNOT get the PH, hardness and alkalinity down and we're on our 3rd dose of Ph decreaser...any suggestions?  Thanks   ,   thats how I feel right about now.

[Cola]

Try a different sanitizer.
Dichlor???

[Snowbird]

My friend has an outboor tub and he told me that he uses Bacquacil and swears by it.  Here is a piece of an email he sent to me about it in response a note to him about my water problems.

"I change our water once every 6 months without any problem.  Just made a change and will do it again mid summer.  Test the water once a week and make any changes if necessary, usually the only item I have to put in is 2 oz of a product called Bacquacil.  The ozonator takes care of the rest.  That is the reason to have the ozonator,  to reduce the amount of chemicals used.  I used to use Bromine when living in WV on first tub but Lynn has a reaction to it on her skin not to mention the bromine smell.  The chems I have used for the past 12 years is made by Baqua Spa.  All chlorine and bromine free.  BTW if you have a water softner for your house, you need to put it on "by pass" for a fill up.  The ozonator sees the salt as a foreign object and works hard to remove the salts.  You need to take good care of the ozonator as a replacement will set you back close to $400.00."

As you can see, he doesn't mention any problems with pH or hardness and he is on well water in extreme southwestern PA (generally hard sulphorous water).  Perhaps it is not the product, but your water.  Maybe you can have a good analysis of your tap water done and ask Bacquacil for advice.

I asked my Jacuzzi dealer about the Bacqua product line and she said that they have a terrible time with it and that the last customer they had try it turned their water black and it took a long time to get it clean again.  I should've asked why, but didn't because I knew then I wasn't interested in that system anymore. Plus most people who like it will admit that it is more expensive, but you use less of it.

My guess is that the Bacquacil clashes with the Nature2 chemical stick.  The lesson is:  if you are going to change your chem system, drain the tub, clean it well and start with fresh water.

That is how I solved my water problem.  Now I use the ozonator, a chem stick and mps (Activate) 2 oz after each use and a 4 oz shock once a week and test srtips every other day.  My water is crystal clear and feels great even though we both use it twice a day for about 30 minutes each time.  We get a clear bath tub ring that we clean once a week.   Previously we had a gritty layer on the horizontal tub surfaces below the water line but not any more.   That must've been the result of operator error too.

Good luck.

[tony]

My friend has an outboor tub and he told me that he uses Bacquacil and swears by it.  Here is a piece of an email he sent to me about it in response a note to him about my water problems.

"I change our water once every 6 months without any problem.  Just made a change and will do it again mid summer.  Test the water once a week and make any changes if necessary, usually the only item I have to put in is 2 oz of a product called Bacquacil.  The ozonator takes care of the rest.  That is the reason to have the ozonator,  to reduce the amount of chemicals used.  I used to use Bromine when living in WV on first tub but Lynn has a reaction to it on her skin not to mention the bromine smell.  The chems I have used for the past 12 years is made by Baqua Spa.  All chlorine and bromine free.  BTW if you have a water softner for your house, you need to put it on "by pass" for a fill up.  The ozonator sees the salt as a foreign object and works hard to remove the salts.  You need to take good care of the ozonator as a replacement will set you back close to $400.00."

As you can see, he doesn't mention any problems with pH or hardness and he is on well water in extreme southwestern PA (generally hard sulphorous water).  Perhaps it is not the product, but your water.  Maybe you can have a good analysis of your tap water done and ask Bacquacil for advice.

I asked my Jacuzzi dealer about the Bacqua product line and she said that they have a terrible time with it and that the last customer they had try it turned their water black and it took a long time to get it clean again.  I should've asked why, but didn't because I knew then I wasn't interested in that system anymore. Plus most people who like it will admit that it is more expensive, but you use less of it.

My guess is that the Bacquacil clashes with the Nature2 chemical stick.  The lesson is:  if you are going to change your chem system, drain the tub, clean it well and start with fresh water.

That is how I solved my water problem.  Now I use the ozonator, a chem stick and mps (Activate) 2 oz after each use and a 4 oz shock once a week and test srtips every other day.  My water is crystal clear and feels great even though we both use it twice a day for about 30 minutes each time.  We get a clear bath tub ring that we clean once a week.   Previously we had a gritty layer on the horizontal tub surfaces below the water line but not any more.   That must've been the result of operator error too.

Good luck.

The gritty surface below the water line is caused by high pH.  The best way to fix that is to lower pH and allow the calcium to precipitate back into the water.

Most people I know use and love Baqua.  Long time spa owners I know tend more to be bromine users.  That was what was mostly used in the 80s and 90s and that is what they are comfortable with, though I have introduced some of them to the frog with their bromine and they love the results.  The three sanitizers, chlorine, bromine and peroxide, are all bug killers.  Baqua is peroxide.  Its advantage seems to be ease of use more that anything.  I doubt a six month water change has anything to do with baqua.  Water changes with baqua should be similar to chlorine or bromine.  That is just stretching it.

From what I have seen, if your water is balanced and any source water metals have been sequestered, baqua should be fine, but everybody's water and use is unique.  Bring a water sample to the dealer that is selling the baqua.

[tony]

Had a tub years ago so feel out of the loop.. baqua spa was recommended for the tub but CANNOT get the PH, hardness and alkalinity down and we're on our 3rd dose of Ph decreaser...any suggestions?  Thanks   ,   thats how I feel right about now.

Some source water is very difficult to get balanced.  It seems to be more prevelent with well water.  There are some who post here that need large amounts of dry acid (pH down) to get their water into shape.  Some use muriatic acid which I think is fine for extreme conditions.

When you mention hardness, are you referring to calcium hardness or iron/metal hardness.  You cannot lower calcium hardness, but you can sequester metals with a product such as LeisureTime Metal Gon when you drain and fill.  Also a stain and scale such as LeisureTime Defender on a weekly basis to protect equipment.  I don't mean to be promoting LT chemicals...its just what I use and know...there are other manufacturers that are as good.

Maybe someone who has the same issue as you will help out with their experience because this problem is fixable.

[Brewman]

How much Ph decreaser do you consider a dose?

Our tap water is very high in alkalinity (400+ IIRC), and with new water I have to add over 20 ounces of Ph decrease to get the alkalinity in range.   We have a spa with just under 500 gallons of water.

Does your dealer do any water anaylsis?  Our does, and the computer printout on my water suggests the quantity needed to bring the water in balance.  Maybe you could get that done?


Also- We tried baqua and couldn't get it to work.  We didn't have problems with Ph or alk though.  Baqua just wasn't for us.  Made us cough & no dealer or even the Baqua people could help.

[tony]

Also- We tried baqua and couldn't get it to work.  We didn't have problems with Ph or alk though.  Baqua just wasn't for us.  Made us cough & no dealer or even the Baqua people could help.

Something you hear about often....the infamous Baqua cough.

[Snowbird]

The gritty surface below the water line is caused by high pH.  The best way to fix that is to lower pH and allow the calcium to precipitate back into the water.

My pH is always slightly low and needs something to bring it up about once a week.  My TA is right where it needs to be also.  I put the tub in last December and have never had to lower the pH.  I guess the mps or the mineral stick tends to lower it.

[Tatooed_Lady]

Had a tub years ago so feel out of the loop.. baqua spa was recommended for the tub but CANNOT get the PH, hardness and alkalinity down and we're on our 3rd dose of Ph decreaser...any suggestions?  Thanks   ,   thats how I feel right about now.

Did you get your alkalinity in line before trying to get the pH and the rest to follow? It's gotta be stable before anything else is monkeyed with.

[drewstar]

Did you get your alkalinity in line before trying to get the pH and the rest to follow? It's gotta be stable before anything else is monkeyed with.

This is completely opposite of what I do.    I usually get the PH balnced and then adjust for the alkilinity.

[Tatooed_Lady]

Really? I was under the impression that Alk has to be stable or the pH fluctuates.  

[Snowbird]

Really? I was under the impression that Alk has to be stable or the pH fluctuates.  

Ditto.

[drewstar]

Really? I was under the impression that Alk has to be stable or the pH fluctuates.  

I'm not the sciene guy, but  I thought  the priority was to ensure the PH was fine before moving to the ALk.

I don't have too much of a problem balancing my tub, so I am not an expert.  


 

[ssbraun]

What you do works for some here, who have no problems with ph / ta.  But...correct TA behaves as a "buffer" which helps to prevent PH swing.  Some have had difficulty with PH and "chase it".  All of the info I have dug up on the net says to adjust TA, then go after PH.  If you are having no difficulties, I wouldn't necessarily change what you are doing.

Steve

[tony]

The "correct" way is to adjust TA first, then pH.  Proper TA will stabilize pH and eliminate pH "bounce" or "swings".  Dry acid (spa down) will drop TA and pH, sodium bicarb (spa up) will raise both TA and pH, soda ash (pH up) will raise pH.  Since you can adjust pH without affecting TA, it should be done last.

Many of us have pretty good water out of the tap, so just occasional pH adjustment is necessary.  I rarely have to adjust TA, even though it is generally on the low end of normal.