Ready to re-wire

[tonyp]

Thanks for the reply, brewman.  The more I think about it, I'm just going to get a GFCI breaker for the main panel in the house and forget about the disconnect box.  If my spa needs service, I have an outside garage door operner that I can reprogram a code for the tech (if need be).  My panel is in the garage.

The NEC requires a disconnect within sight of the Spa.  There's also a maximum and minimum distance but I don't recall them.

[leaky]

The GFCI box certainly has to qualify as a disconnect.  It will be just about 5' from the corner.

[Brewman]

So how do I make it big like Hubjeeps?

That is between you and Hubjeeps
(sorry, but you set up the shot so nicely I had to take it)


Anyway-

Just double click on the photo, and it launches into a larger version of the pic.

[Brewman]

The GFCI box certainly has to qualify as a disconnect.  It will be just about 5' from the corner.

The panel counts as a disconnect, as would any breakers installed in the spa itself.  As would a pull box.  
This means of disconnect would be at least 5' from the water (not the spa but the water as the crow flies), no more than 50' away, and within line of sight from the spa.  Except the breakers in the spa cabinet, which still count as an allowed shutoff, but don't comply with the other rules.

I won't even mention that some inspectors require a 120v gfi protected outlet no closer than 10' but no farther than 20' from the spa.

[leaky]

Brewman,

You're quite the comic.....I usually don't leave myself open like that....!


Now that you can double-click and enlarge the image, anyone prepared to offer a dissertation on the proper wiring?

[Brewman]

I'm not sure if mine is different or not.  My Midwest box looks different.  It even has the capability to add another GFCI to it, with additional attachment terminals.  Also, the pigtail came connected to a bus, and there is a large diameter aluminum rod that is mounted to the back face and truncates in the middle of the box, attached to nothing.

I'll take a jpeg of it and try and figure out how to post it.  Then maybe Brewman, STL, Hubjeep, or another guru can steer me the right way.  I think I have it "wired", but additional help can't hurt!

The GFI pigtail is correctly connected to the neutral buss.  Leave it there.  That other isolated bar on the far right is your ground buss.  That's where your ground pass thru wires will attach.  Do not put ground wires on the neutral buss, or vice versa.  
There should be a schematic sheet you got with the panel to explain how to hook up the incoming power wires to the correct lugs for the hots and neutral.

[leaky]

Thanks Brewman.

That was the plan.  Attach both line and load whites to the common bar along with the pigtail; attach both grounds to the ground bar on the right-hand side.  There is a wiring schematic on the lid of the box that shows what terminal connects to which side of the GFI.  That will determine where the red and black load and line wires attach.  All should go pretty smoothly.  I'm still not positive what the large aluminum bar is for...

[TubbinSoon, now we be tubbin]

In your picture there is an unused terminal block that appears to be connected directly to the box frame. That would be used to connect a bonding wire. The bond is usually a bare copper wire that allows the branch wiring to have a common connection.

It can be confusing, neutrals, earth or ground connections and what gets bonded or landed where. Some circuits are really two 120 vac circuits fed by two hot wires with one neutral. Others are 240 vac  and the neutral is not carrying current for this type.

Usually you get a picture of how the spa mfg wants to connect?

[Chas]

If your spa requires a neutral, be sure it goes to the neutral connector on the breaker.

I also would love to find out why there is no neutral connector on your breaker Brewman: I haven't heard of that before. Might be for some specialized application as you said - let us know if you find out anything.

thnx

[Brewman]

Will do, Chas.  Fortunately for me, the Optima doesn't require a neutral, so I didn't have to deal with that issue when I did my wiring.  

[J._McD]

Equipment using a GFCI breaker greater than 50 amps have NO application for 110volts thus a neutural is not part of the breaker.  A wet boring drill using that amp capacity needs the 60 amp GFCI breaker but has nothing to do with 110 volts.

Best source of information I would recommend is looking up Square D in the yellow pages and call them directly and speak to one of their engineers for a technical explanation.  I find most electricians very confused when it come to three wire hook ups.  They seem to insist on using a neutural on the load screw even though when they get to the spa there is NO place to put the neutural wire.  When they put it on the common buss bar it trips the breaker, guaranteed.

[Cola]

Hello Everybody
You do not get wiring advice from your dealer!
Some facts
1:  Ground and neutral are not the same thing.  The neutral point (X0) of a transformer shall be grounded at one point.  This should be at the transformer.
2:  You DO NOT connect the neutral that goes to the tub to the neutral on the line side of the breaker.  It's your skin, not mine!
If you have anything on the output of the GFCI that causes it to trip, then you did it wrong.  If your tub does not use the neutral, but you installed a cable with the white wire, cap it at both ends.  do not connect the neutral to the ground at any point.
If you don't know, call an experienced electrician.
Save your a$$, not your money.

[Brewman]

Equipment using a GFCI breaker greater than 50 amps have NO application for 110volts thus a neutural is not part of the breaker.  A wet boring drill using that amp capacity needs the 60 amp GFCI breaker but has nothing to do with 110 volts.

Best source of information I would recommend is looking up Square D in the yellow pages and call them directly and speak to one of their engineers for a technical explanation.  I find most electricians very confused when it come to three wire hook ups.  They seem to insist on using a neutural on the load screw even though when they get to the spa there is NO place to put the neutural wire.  When they put it on the common buss bar it trips the breaker, guaranteed.

That pretty much sums it up from what I've been able to find.  I did locate my SquareD installation sheet for that breaker, and it specifically states that their 60 amp GFI breakers do not have a load neutral connection, and therefore are only suitable for use in 2 wire applications for 240 v.  Sundance doesn't require a neutral on many of their spas, including mine, so I was able to use that breaker.