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Thanks for the reply, brewman. The more I think about it, I'm just going to get a GFCI breaker for the main panel in the house and forget about the disconnect box. If my spa needs service, I have an outside garage door operner that I can reprogram a code for the tech (if need be). My panel is in the garage.
So how do I make it big like Hubjeeps?
The GFCI box certainly has to qualify as a disconnect. It will be just about 5' from the corner.
I'm not sure if mine is different or not. My Midwest box looks different. It even has the capability to add another GFCI to it, with additional attachment terminals. Also, the pigtail came connected to a bus, and there is a large diameter aluminum rod that is mounted to the back face and truncates in the middle of the box, attached to nothing.I'll take a jpeg of it and try and figure out how to post it. Then maybe Brewman, STL, Hubjeep, or another guru can steer me the right way. I think I have it "wired", but additional help can't hurt!
Equipment using a GFCI breaker greater than 50 amps have NO application for 110volts thus a neutural is not part of the breaker. A wet boring drill using that amp capacity needs the 60 amp GFCI breaker but has nothing to do with 110 volts.Best source of information I would recommend is looking up Square D in the yellow pages and call them directly and speak to one of their engineers for a technical explanation. I find most electricians very confused when it come to three wire hook ups. They seem to insist on using a neutural on the load screw even though when they get to the spa there is NO place to put the neutural wire. When they put it on the common buss bar it trips the breaker, guaranteed.