I will assume your spa came with an ozonator which should do a major portion of the work. The day it stops workng in the future, you will know it within 24-48 hours.
A residual contact killer of bacteria and viruses is necessary with a busy tub, however you water should appear crystal clean and have NO smell to it. If this is the case, your need to add chemical sanitizers is reduced.
The more chemical you add, the more you will "FEED" the ozonator something to react on.
No two tubs are used the same and there is no "written in stone" guideline to laminate for daily gidance, unless of course it is "checking on the spa" guidelines.
Sight, smell, test water. If it is "sparkling clean, crystal clear, and has an invitation to drink" don't mess with it.
Sight = cloudy water = test water = heavy neutriants (body matter), oils, lotions (these are no no's) solution = floating zorbie = solution (ozone not working), need chemical sanitizer, or after heavy body load shock water with MPS
Sight = green cast = test for alkalinity
Smell = pH is off = test water, smell = gas off the water usually a signal that base properties are out of balance.
The more chemical you add, the more frequent you will change your water. It would not be unusual to have "LONG TERM" water quality and clarity using ozone with di-chlor or bromine back up.
This is really a hands on learning experience and only one person should be involved initially to get it right first. Too many cooks will ruin the stew.
Biggest problem, being anal. Engineers, (I know your out there
) look for specific analytical factual and immediate response to specific engineering specifications and standards. Water dosen't work that way. Adjustments will require patience and understanding. They are not immediate or spontaeneous
When you experience a situation, bring it back to us.