Drawbacks of hooking to 110 volts

[anxious2tub]

Hello all,

  This is a great forum and has helped me in the past now looking for more info.. I have a 1997 Hot Springs Souvereign hot tub, when I purchased this tub used it had several leaks of which your replies helped me locate and repair all leaks.  My problem now is the control panel I need a transformer it is the black plastic box containing the board my output on the 2ndary is 1.4 volts where as it should be 12 to 14 volts.  I can not find this part anywhere  is this part unavailable and do I need to purchase a new board ??  Also I found out that I only have 100 Amp service in the house so i was thinking of running it on 110 volts  what are ny drawbacks to doing this ??  Someone in the past told me that when hooked up to 110 V I can not operate the heater and the jets at the same time and is this a big deal  I have never had a tub before so i do not know what I would be missing.  Another question is lifters  are the homemade ones any good or what is reccomended to buy..... and my last question is the water we have here is well water and is yellow in color and has an odor to it   is there something i can put in the water to nuetralize it.
           thank you for all of your help in advance

                             Joe

[wmccall]

I have 100 amp service and am running our spa just fine on 220.  Our heat is gas. I just avoid running the AC, spa and microwave all at the same time.

[Brewman]

Running your spa on 110v if it is capable of running on 220v also, may result in the heater not working if the pump(s) are on.  Also, it will probably take longer for your heater to heat the water, and depending on your climate, your heater may not keep the water temperature up during use.
A demand load calculation isn't that hard to do, and will let you know where you are in regard to maxing out your electrical service.   Just because you have 100 amp service doesn't mean that you'd be overdrawing with your spa.  It's possible, but if you have a smaller home with no big amp drawing appliances, you might be ok.  
Brewman

[Spatech_tuo]

 Someone in the past told me that when hooked up to 110 V I can not operate the heater and the jets at the same time and is this a big deal  I have never had a tub before so i do not know what I would be missing.  

                              Joe

It depends on where you live. If you're in a warmer climate, running at 110v probably won't be a major issue as you won't loose heat as quickly. If you're in a co9lder climate you'll notice a temp drop after 5-10 minutes with the jets on (since it does diable the heater when the jet pump activates). Also, if you're like me it won't be an issue anyway because while I'm typically in the spa for 15 minutes I have the jets on at most 20% of the time. I'm much more of a hot water soaker than I am a jet massager.

[johnvb]

 We have some friends with a Hot Springs Sovereign, installed inside an unheated spa room, running 110 volts. I asked them the same question, they claimed they have never had a problem with the water getting too cold.

You could always run 220 volt wiring/ panel sizing to the spa, (you will need a neutral anyway, for the GFIs) but wire it (using single pole GFI breakers) for 110 first, to see how well that works out.

On a similar note, I plan on installing a 220 volt, 50 amp service to my new Sundance, but may try to run it on the 30 amp set-up at first. (for energy conservation)

[Soakin]

"On a similar note, I plan on installing a 220 volt, 50 amp service to my new Sundance, but may try to run it on the 30 amp set-up at first. (for energy conservation)"

IMO, you won't actually be conserving much energy.  It takes the same amount of energy to heat and move the water whether at 110 or 220, you will just be doing them at separate times on 110 to reduce amp draw.  There was a thread that debated this awhile back and while there wasn't necessarily consensus on the energy calculations, there was a general agreement that if you have the option to hook up at 220, you won't regret it.  

[Spatech_tuo]

IMO, you won't actually be conserving much energy.  It takes the same amount of energy to heat and move the water whether at 110 or 220, you will just be doing them at separate times on 110 to reduce amp draw.   

Absolutely agree. Its one thing to run 110v versus 220v. We know there are inherent brawbacks to 110V(not always a huge deal) but sometimes it has to be that way due to cost/availability of power. But installing 220v but only going with a 30A circuit instead of a 50A circuit makes no sense UNLESS you simply cannot get to 50A due to power constraints. You're really not saving anything with the 30A circuit versus 50A and are possibily causing yourself some inconvenience. It'll still need the same amount of power to heat the spa, run the jets, etc.

[Soakin]

I looked back at your original post and saw that we only addressed one of your questions.  You might get a more full discussion of each issue if you post them separately, but I'll take a swing at each.


1.  "I have a 1997 Hot Springs Souvereign. My problem now is the control panel I need a transformer it is the black plastic box containing the board my output on the 2ndary is 1.4 volts where as it should be 12 to 14 volts.  I can not find this part anywhere  is this part unavailable and do I need to purchase a new board ??"

There are several Hot Spring Dealers (Chas, pkud, East Tx to name a few) and experienced technicians (Gary, Spatech -- both real and unreal) on this board who can help, but since we took this thread down "110 alley" they may not notice.  Don't be afraid to post a separate thread about the board or PM them if help doesn't show up.

2.  "Also I found out that I only have 100 Amp service in the house so i was thinking of running it on 110 volts  what are ny drawbacks to doing this ?? "

As a couple of other posters have mentioned, just because you have 100 amp service doesn't mean you can't  make 220 work.  If you can, 220 is the way to go.  

3.  "Another question is lifters  are the homemade ones any good or what is reccomended to buy....."

I have a friend who bought some kind of PVC contraption off eBay.  It looks flimsy, but it works.  Another bent conduit to make his own, but it twisted on him.  I personally would buy a good one rather than make it.

4.  "My last question is the water we have here is well water and is yellow in color and has an odor to it   is there something i can put in the water to nuetralize it."

Yes, you can.  Take a sample to a dealer close to home who may have other customers with the same water (gives them a head start on recommendations).  Test results will give you a starting place.  You will probably end up using a metal remover and  stain and scale preventer, along with the normal chems.  You may also want to look into a hose-end activated charcoal filter for filling.  I haven't seen one, but know my dealer recommends them for fills with well water.

Good luck!

[wmccall]

Soakin, Nice job of moderation!  

[Soakin]

Thanks.  I've gleaned so much good info off this board, I just thought it was time to give back a little.

[shabba34]

 You have a bad IQ board.  Unfortunately HS does not sell seperate parts for the board, so you need to replace the whole thing.  About 400-450 dolaros.  Sorry.  Sounds like it may have been hooked up wrong at some point.  Are you the original owner?  I only say thet because the 110 vs 220 volt talk.  

[Mendocino101]

110 vs 220 is simple....there benefits to both ....110 is cost and simplicity.... 220 heater efficiency ......pump output is the same for both.....bottom line is you can try it on 110 first if you find it not to your liking ...than bump up to 220 as far as I know "most" all spas are a simple conversion to do usually not more involved than moving a jumper wire ....

[shabba34]

At least for HS some jumpers and a conversion panel.

[johnvb]

IMO, you won't actually be conserving much energy.

Yes, you guys are probably right. The only savings would be not using the extra heat BTUs that the heater would make up while the pumps are running, instead of "catching up" during the pump "off" cycle, with the tub covered up.  Would not worth the inconvenience in the winter season of having to get out early because the water cooled down too quickly.

Of course in the summer time, I may be using the air blower to cool off the tub, instead of heating it. Wouldn't matter one way or another.

The Hot Springs Vanguard we wet-tested actually had a "hot spot" where the heated water returned to the tub, that was almost uncomfortable if one was to put their foot at the right  (wrong) spot. Don't know if the Sundance we bought has the same issue.

[windsurfdog]

I have 100 amp service and am running our spa just fine on 220.  Our heat is gas. I just avoid running the AC, spa and microwave all at the same time.

"Greeeeeen Acres is the place for me......"