Water logged covers

[HotTubMan]

I use a teasp00n just after getting out (pretty much every day).  I felt with that lower amount, 15 minutes would be enough, yes?   I've been leaning heavily on MPS for shocking lately, more to have the tub available for use than anything.  But I still use a dichlor shock on occasion (not quite two tablesp00ns), and I would hope the 30 minutes in that case would be sufficient?

Thanks in advance for any opinions.

Yes.

[ZzTop]

Bill This is your best insurance!

quote author=ZzTop link=board=wtb-hottub;num=1099757991;start=0#3 date=11/06/04 at 16:34:36]Repost.

(Everything I know on how to protect and give added years of life to your expensive Spa Cover.)

HOW TO ATTACH A SPA BLANKET TO YOUR HOT TUB COVER.  


I used strips of Velcro about 3/4 inch wide by3 inches long.  I spaced four of them out on the outside edge of the cover.  You may wish to use more depending on the length of the cover.  

The adhesive on the velcro does not stick to the vinyl cover very well so I used Clear Silicone.  Apply the hook side of the velcro on the cover, the rug side on the Spa blanket.
Remove the Spa Cover and lay the spa blanket over the tub.  I cut the blanket to the OUTSIDE dimensions of the tub. Then install the Spa Cover and Silicone the velcro strips onto the blanket and Cover while they are in place.

Let the silicone set and you are ready to go.

I have a cover lifter and when I flip the first half of the cover over, the Spa blanket goes with the cover.

BTW, I left the other end of the spa blanket loose, but you could do the same thing on the other end too,  but make sure you have left enough length so there is an allowance for the folding cover.   Whether you attach the other end or not  when cutting the Spa blanket be sure you leave extra length for allowance of the fold of the cover when it opens.   Approx 8 - 12 inches, depending on the thickness of the Spa Cover.

By using Velcro when it is time to replace the Spa Blanket, just apply velcro on the new replacement and away you go.

To seal and protect the top and underside of the vinyl and stiching of your Spa Cover it is a good idea to spray it with 303 Aerospace protectant (www.303.products.com).  Beyond being a sunscreen, it also helps prevent mildew growth.  Do Not use ArmorAll or Black Magic!

A Spa Blanket is Cheap Insurance, and it will save you money on keeping the heat in the tub, helps prevent the cover from absorbing water and getting heavy to lift, and keeps the Chlorine and chemical gases from attacking the underside of your Spa Cover.

I have found that if you do not attach the Spa Blanket to the Spa Cover it can be a real pain in the ass to handle and store.

I also use Steve Russell's Cover Saver  ( Email:  srsb@shaw.ca)
which takes the stress off the stitched Spa Cover Hinge when using a Cover Lifter.  It could also add years of service to the Cover.

A word about Cover Lifters.  A Good Idea!
If you do not use a cover lifter, over time your Spa Cover will get damaged in handling it on and off the spa and will suffer abrasions and cuts which will allow water to enter and water log the insulation.
A cover lifter affords an easy way to effortlessly move the cover on and off the spa and keeps it in good shape.

If your Spa is not in a Gazebo it is also a good idea to put a plastic tarp over the Top of the Spa Cover in Winter to protect it from rain, ice and snow.  Just pull it off along with the accumulated snow before opening.  It is just that easy!

Hope this helps,

Happy Hot Tubbing . . . .  

Ps  before I decided to attached the Spa blanket to the Cover, I used two plastic potato chip bag clips( looks like a bulldog clip) which I attached to one wall of my gazebo to hang the blanket when I used the hot tub.  It got the blanket out of the way but wasn't as convienent to handle.

Regards,    Zz[/quote]

[stuart]

Ok, what is the cause of water logged covers?

If gassing could cause that, wouldn't it affect both cover halves equally?  I noticed the "front half" of the cover is water logged and has put on a lot of weight.

Bill,
If you have a circ pump with a return it can be coming out more predominate on one side of the spa than the other so you get more damaging off gas on that side.

I absolutely love the covers we use!  I never have to deal with this.  The common cover is subject to saturation in soooo many ways.  Sticthing, however being the main culprit.  If you don't stich the seams, you don't need the zipper or the gromets. The covers we order are heat sealed (Melted) at the seams, so they take on no water.

huh,
The SpaSeal covers are all right however, over the years I have found that the “melted” seams have more of a tendency to crack and come apart. The vinyl is compromised when you melt it and does not hold up as well over time….

Sippy and ZZ,
Your both right, the floating bubble cover will extend the life….

HoTubMan and Steve,
Your also both right, 30 minuets to an hour is sufficient depending on how much chlorine you add…

[Dr. Spa™ Ret.]

"The SpaSeal covers are all right however, over the years I have found that the “melted” seams have more of a tendency to crack and come apart. The vinyl is compromised when you melt it and does not hold up as well over time…. "

Thanks stuart....... I have suspected this for a while, and the therory that this will occure exists, but I have yet to hear of any actual experience or observation of this.

I need the heater still, you know  

[stuart]

Thanks stuart....... I have suspected this for a while, and the therory that this will occure exists, but I have yet to hear of any actual experience or observation of this.

I need the heater still, you know  

It's not just the seams but even about an inch or so in from the seams it starts to get hard and crack, especially down the middle....

To be fair though I haven't used them much since the current owners have been there but I can't imagine anything they could change to make it differant.

I will get to work on the heater again in the AM, been kinda nuts.....