Choosing Water Care Chemicals (Bromine v Chlorine, Frog v others)

[BobbyM]

I am about a week away from filling my first spa and am somewhat confused by the options for water care chemicals.

After reading MANY online guides, I was leaning towards bromine over chlorine until my dealer (who claims to have have 20+ years of experience) said that they see a strong pattern of eroding plastic parts (like jets) from bromine tubs. Humm... Could there be a giant downside to bromine that none of the guides mentions?

As for chlorine, I was initially thinking about the Frog @Ease System, which is integrated into the filter area of Sundance and other tubs. But, again, my dealer said the Frog system doesn't work as well as advertised and they recommend their own chemical package (summarized here: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/2q4onextyifu7735fz5ox/Elemental-Water-Care-Program_Serena-Products.docx?rlkey=4i4a47v59almernjaehk8991y&dl=0)

Honestly, I can't tell whether I am getting good advice from an experienced dealer or whether it is a sales scheme designed to get me to buy their overpriced chemicals.

What do you recommend for a relatively low maintenance, least expensive chemical plan?

In case it helps, I suspect this tub (6 seats, 405 gallons) will get fairly frequent use in the first few months among our family of four, including a high schooler and middle schooler with their friends, as well as our adult friends.

Thanks in advance for any honest advice about which chemical options to choose.

[cranbiz]

The Frog@ease system works just fine. It's more expensive than a dichlor-liquid chlorine regiment but it's stupidly easy and about as low maintenance as you can get.

I use the Frog system and have now for over 2 years. I check the water twice a week, on my 325 gal tub, the smartchlor cartridge lasts about 5 weeks (set on 2) and the mineral cartridge lasts 3 months.

Your dealer wants to sell you their stuff because they make more money on it. From the list of stuff they want you to use, I'll bet the Frog system will be cost competitive. You still need PH up or PH down with any sanitizing system as well as something to adjust hardness. Their recommended regiment also introduces CYA into the water (Dichlor does this) which will require more frequent water changes to get rid of the the excessive CYA.

You will need a good Taylor test kit with their setup and the Frog system used test strips (but I still use the Taylor kit because Their test strips can be hard to interpret and I feel the chlorine level reporting is inaccurate.

[Sam]

Yeah, the @ease system works just fine.  The regiment that they gave you is full of a bunch of bs.  They don't even account for the gallons of the spa in telling you doses.  They tell you to use enzyme, stain and scale, and metal control without knowing whether or not your water even needs it.  I've never once used any of those products in my hot tub.  If you are on well water, maybe you need it but to just blanket say that everyone needs it is silly. 

[BobbyM]

Thanks, Sam and Cranbiz -- It is very helpful to hear that you've had good results with Frog @Ease. And you confirmed my suspicion that overselling chemicals is, unfortunately, part of the business plan for some companies. Much appreciated.

[cranbiz]

If you are on well water, like I am, a simple sediment filter like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014C09XG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 will do a nice job on getting iron and other suspended metals.

[Ripper238]

IMO chlorine & Frog @Ease System is the way to go. Much easier.

I would suggest bromine if the tub is being used indoors, otherwise just go chlorine and @Ease. You will be happy you did, and you can always switch after a good drain and refill if you want.