Hot Tub on Ground Level Deck - best practices and materials?

[betsbillabong]

Hi all! Thanks to a lot of advice here, I have a Nordic Crown 2 coming next month, and I have decided to build a ground-level deck that it will live in/on in my backyard.

What are best practices here? The contractor plans to use 2x8 joists and dig down about 10" with 2" of class 5/6 road base crushed rock on the bottom, spacing the joists at 16".

Am I safe to put the hot tub right on the deck? I am hoping to use 5/4 4" Ipe boards (or Cumaru or Garapa, which are slightly cheaper). I'd really prefer that to composite, but will go with composite if a grade-level hardwood seems like it will rot.

Or should I put it right on the gravel and build the deck around it, with some way to access the control panel? I'd prefer to have the deck right on grade but want to do what will be best.
I don't think I can afford to pour a concrete pad below the deck - it's either/or, but trying to improve the value of the house and I think a deck will make a big difference (plus I like the look MUCH better). The deck price is not much more than the concrete price was going to be and I will like the look MUCH better.

Thanks!

[A.O.]

My vote is the concrete pad, more stable, cheaper to heat the tub as the concrete makes a great heat sink under the tub. Maintenance is pretty much nill, and if you want you can have them add a color to the concrete for looks. I've had both and the concrete would be my call.

[betsbillabong]

Thanks for your input. I really dislike the look of concrete so am looking for the best way to put the deck in on the ground level.

[A.O.]

You could always dress the concrete up with stamps, or tile it after or something.. but if you just don't like it I understand and hope you find something that works.

[betsbillabong]

Yep. I really like wood decks. It seems that lots of people have them in their backyards for their hot tubs, and I'm trying to figure out the best way to have enough ventilation and support.

The big question is, should the hot tub sit on the deck or on the ground (Crushed rock, etc). Sounds like the latter but was hoping to hear from folks who have done it, or techs.

I appreciate your chiming in though!

[A.O.]

Well here, I'll chime in again. A deck if constructed properly will support the hot tub no problem, I put one on a deck once that was about 6 feet above grade, even full of people we never had a problem with it. Just make sure the deck is built with enough support. And to me that does not mean sitting on the ground. Posts on concrete and heavy enough joists, if you want the deck at ground level better plan on some digging.
Another thing to think about is the deck surface, bare feet will be on it and you don't want slivers in those feet, been there done that and its not pleasant. Again, concrete eliminates that problem or you can use synthetic decking (Trex or similar), I'm not a fan but many are..

[betsbillabong]

Thanks so much for chiming in again - I appreciate it! Yes, I am working with a contractor who will be digging down at least 6-9" then filling with gravel.

I have been trying to research it and it sounds like it may be simpler and safer to have the tub resting at grade with the deck surrounding it, rather than consulting a structural engineer to be sure the deck can support the load. Does that seem like a good approach to you?

Alternatively, it seems we need lots of concrete footers going down below the frost line, which is 30" here.

I'll either be using Ipe or a composite, depending upon cost. I think neither splinter - like you, prefer real wood but we'll see about cost and the look of the trex or other composite.

[A.O.]

Thanks so much for chiming in again - I appreciate it! Yes, I am working with a contractor who will be digging down at least 6-9" then filling with gravel.

I have been trying to research it and it sounds like it may be simpler and safer to have the tub resting at grade with the deck surrounding it, rather than consulting a structural engineer to be sure the deck can support the load. Does that seem like a good approach to you?

Alternatively, it seems we need lots of concrete footers going down below the frost line, which is 30" here.

I'll either be using Ipe or a composite, depending upon cost. I think neither splinter - like you, prefer real wood but we'll see about cost and the look of the trex or other composite.

OK, well here I go again... I have done what you are saying above I think if I know your meaning. So the tub at ground level,  and then the deck built up around it. That's a nice set up and with the deck up near the top of the tub you can get into the tub from any side which is nice. Also gives you cup holders which is good because ALL tubs are short on those these days!  Now here I go with the concrete again.. you can pour a pad for the hot tub to sit on, oversize it a little and it will double as footers for the inside of the deck, the concrete will do its job and no one will see it!! If you make removeable full width steps go get up to the deck level you have a way to access the panel if you ever need to get in there!
I wish I had pictures of that set up, and I probably do in a box somewhere.. just not digital.

[betsbillabong]

Thanks, AO. This is definitely the direction I am leaning.

Do you know (or does anyone know) whether a round Nordic tub will need access to just the front panel or to the whole tub?

Thanks!

[A.O.]

Thanks, AO. This is definitely the direction I am leaning.

Do you know (or does anyone know) whether a round Nordic tub will need access to just the front panel or to the whole tub?

Thanks!

Sorry, not a clue on that one, You could go to their website and download the manual, it should tell you. I cant imagine there isn't just a panel to remove like on all tubs..

[Spatech_tuo]

Thanks, AO. This is definitely the direction I am leaning.

Do you know (or does anyone know) whether a round Nordic tub will need access to just the front panel or to the whole tub?

Thanks!

Like just about every tub out there, you only need access to the front panel except for if/when the time there is an issue elsewhere.

[CanadianSpaTech]

Building the deck up to the lip of the spa... how do you get in? Do you get down on your hands and knees first and slide in or do you try and step down into the spa from a standing position?

[A.O.]

Building the deck up to the lip of the spa... how do you get in? Do you get down on your hands and knees first and slide in or do you try and step down into the spa from a standing position?

Mine wasn't actually up to the lip of the tub, maybe a couple inches below the shell (need room for the cover to close after all ), and yes, just step in.

[betsbillabong]

Hi all, just returning to clarify something. Am I correct in thinking that it is very important that the tub be at or above grade? The initial plan (for the hot tub sitting right on top of the deck) was to dig down 8", fill with 3-4" of crushed rock/road base, then use that as a the base for the deck framing. It seems to me that I cannot place the hot tub any lower than the base to avoid water running down on its base, correct? And so the framing would need to start at ground level rather than below? If I do that, it seems like the deck will then need to be at least 8-10" above grade, if not more, which then causes problems as stairs will eat up a lot of the deck space. Hmmm.

Pardon my ignorance -- totally new to this world!

[bud16415]

I would not try and build a PT wooden deck flush or slightly above ground level. I would want all the deck material above grade except the footings. There are two ways a deck can be built, free floating or posts below frost line. My hot tub deck I built is 36” above grade and free floating. It could easily be just a single step above grade.

The home centers sell pre-cast concrete footing blocks that can be dug and set into the soil with just enough sticking out for the framing to fit into. The framing can be just PT 2x6 or 2x8 depending on what spacing you put the footing blocks at. I would suggest designing the deck such that there are 5 footing blocks under the tub one in the center and one each corner. Then the rest of the deck as large as you want for deck space. Steps take up a little space and it is at least nice for a place to stand and dry off and slip flip-flops on and off at a minimum.

Dig your holes carefully for the footings so they sit on compressed soil. Use a hand tamper if you do some back filling.

Run your conduit during the decking process.

If your deck is low there is no need for railings.