Motor won't start

[chrissteman]

Hi,

When I push the pump motor button, I hear a click from the control panel, but the pump motor won't start. I removed the motor and the shaft seems to spin freely. Both startup capacitors seem okay. Is this a control panels switch issue?

Thanks,

Chris

[clover]

Sounds more like a start capacitor problem, of which there is only one start capacitor, which is the smaller of the two.  Have you taken any voltage readings going to the pump?  And, there is only one way to test a capacitor, and that would be with a capacitor tester.

But, let's try this, with the motor reinstalled electrically, press the jets button, you will hear the relay click in, you should be getting electric to the motor, do you hear any hum from the motor.  Before trying this, have a short piece of rope to thread inside and around the shaft going into the wet end of the pump.  This will allow you to pull the rope and begin the impeller rotation to see if it starts up.  This is the job of the start capacitor, which I believe to be bad.  If this does start the motor, replace the start capacitor which could be acquired from a motor shop.  Only a tester would give you the indication of good or bad. 

Once you have started it manually the motor, it will continue until the next shut down, but it won't start automatically again.

It's not the control panel, because you hear the click, which is the message the control panel is sending to the board relay, and the click indicates it should be sending electric to the motor.

[Dr. Spa™ Ret.]

Wouldn't the first step be to test for proper voltage at the pump?   ;-)

[chrissteman]

I replaced a start capacitor 8 years ago...wonder if that one is bad again? It looks okay on the outside--not blown to smithereens like the old one. There are two capacitors on the topside of the pump. The shaft on the pump turns freely and there's no hum coming from it when it's switched on from the control panel. I just hear that click. What's the best way to test the voltage to the pump?

[clover]

Not to be a smarta$$, but the ONLY WAY to test for voltage is with a voltage meter. 

If you are NOT getting a hum, it is unlikely your getting voltage to the windings, or the windings are open (bad), and don't know the voltage is there. So now I question the motor itself, if you changed the capacitor 8 years ago, that means it has been in service for a very long time.

Cut to the chase, you need a new motor.  But, I would test for voltage going to the motor, and the resistance of the windings, before I jump to that conclusion.  IF you open the tail of the motor, you will see the wires are connected to slide terminals where you can check resistance to the windings. Resistance should be measured from L low motor speed to N neutral, and from the H high speed connector to N neutral.

[chrissteman]

You're not a smarta$$...that's the kind of advice I need. Truthfully, it's probably more like 9 years ago since I replaced the capacitor. The hot tub was one day out of warranty when, I assumed, the motor failed. Not so, even though the store that sold me the tub thought so. At the time I received advice at an forum like this to yank the motor and check the capacitor. It was shot. I replaced it for $9 and everything worked fine until now. I really dodged a bullet on the new motor then. I have a voltage meter and will check to see what's coming out of the control panel, as well as check the resistance to the windings and report back. I suspect I'll be in the market for a motor. Thanks again for the help.

[chrissteman]

Tested the motor for resistance on both the L and H connections...0 for both. So, this means the windings are good, right? That said, the hot tub and pump are over 9 or 10 years old, so it must be time for a new motor.

[chrissteman]

I checked the voltage coming from the control panel to the pump (both high and low speed) and got 0. The control panel clicks, but nothing registers on the voltmeter. Any ideas?

[Kev B]

 Time to move away from motor idea for now if no voltage is going to motor. Check resistance on all fuses and replace if needed, make sure you have proper voltage coming from main breaker and if you find a bad fuse for the motor it may have blown because it is old or maybe the motor is bad and blew the fuse. If fuses are good, all wires and connections are good and voltage is good, it may be the circuit board.

[chrissteman]

Sounds like a plan. The two clear fuses look clean.  The larger cartridge fuses (25A/300V SC Time-Delay) look good from the outside. I know I'm showing my ignorance here, but I'm assuming they are supposed to have no resistance? Correct?

[Kev B]

 Yes, 0. They are about 8.00 at the hardware store.

[Dr. Spa™ Ret.]

Fuses can look fine, yet still be blown. They need to be ohm'ed out. Should read 0

[chrissteman]

Yes indeed! One of the 25 amp fuses did not read a "0." This may be the issue.

Thanks,

Chris

[chrissteman]

Just to put a close to this post---it was indeed a bad fuse (25A/300V SC Time-Delay). I was able to find a replacement (difficult, since everyone seems to have just 20 and 30 amp versions) and wallah, all systems go. Well, almost go. Even though I'd drained the tub completely, a return line had frozen. That took a few hours to get worked out. I learned a valuable lesson--don't drain the tub and yank the motor until checking the power going from the control panel to the pump motor...and the fuses! This turned out to be a $10.49 repair. The pump motor, by the way, is 12-years old--not 10--and I'm sure I'll be replacing it soon. Thanks again for all the help. This forum is great.

Chris

[duktape]

Thanks for this thread!

I had the exact same problem. The water wasn't circulating and if I pressed the jet button, I could hear the relay click. But the pump didn't turn on.

I followed your suggestions and used a multimeter to test the resistance of the fuses. The problem was a 20 Amp fuse. I bought it at home depot for $3.00. Problem solved!