New Jacuzzi 345 owner

[snakes]

Waiting for delivery 9/24/04.  I had a circuit for an electric dryer 220v/30A which I swapped out to 60A no GFI and ran that to a Spa disconnet box which came with a 60A GFI breaker from Home Depot for $89.00

My panel is in my garage and the outside wall that the panel is mounted is where the tub is going so I only had to run about six feet to the disconnect box mounted on the outside wall six feet away from where the tub is going. Oh if anyone wants to know I'm using 6/4 for my wiring. My question is how much wiring comes with the tub? I need to know how to get wiring from the tub to the disconnect. I'm not sure if it is included or not.

Thanks  

[UnderTheStars]

Hey Snakes!  Congratulations, I think that's a great tub.  Can't say for sure what comes with Jacuzzi, 'cause I bought HotSpring and I'm a newbie to tubs.

My guess is all brands come without wire to connect.  The tub will have an access panel and inside a circuit board and some screw terminals to connect your wiring to.  You/electrician have to provide the wiring from the disconnect panel to the tub.    Check out Jacuzzi's web site, there should be some install info w/wire diagrams.  That will specify the gauge/number of feeds, etc.

You out there Jonny?  Can you verify this is true for Jacuzzi?
Stars

[UnderTheStars]

Wheee!  Been to the Jacuzzi web site - copy/paste this link address.
 
http://jacuzzipremium.com/SpaShowroom/Communications/04PreDel.pdf

It will take you to Jacuzzi's 2004 delivery/install instructions.  See chapter 4 for "electrical requirements" and chapter 5 for "wiring practices J-345."

Enjoy your new tub and welcome aboard!  (er, ah overboard?)

[snakes]

Thanks for the reply. And I will know where to come if I have any questions with my tub and I know I will.

[snakes]

What are most people using to connect their power from their tub to the disconnect, i.e. metal conduit or the flexible conduit that is designed for outdoor use and is non-conductive?

[UnderTheStars]

PVC from the outdoor GFCI box (18" underground meets code) went under the slab, back up on the far side of the slab.  Added a bend to get horizontal, switched to flex which lays tight to the foot of the tub, then up into the access panel.

Sounds like you a planning to run your own electric.  I'd recommend at least consulting with a qualified electrician and/or talk to the guys at your local building inspector's office.  I'm not doubting your ability but I don't want to be invited over to sit in 3' of water if there is ANY chance you made a mistake. . .code is there to keep you & your guests safe.  "Make hot water not toast" is my motto!  

[snakes]

I will take some pics but not sure how to post here.

[UnderTheStars]

I haven't done the picture post thing yet.  there have been multiple threads over the last few weeks telling how to do it.  (use "search" function to find.)  I also believe there are instructions under the "help" link at top of page.

I do know, you can't actually post a picture on this forum.  You have to post the pic on an external site.  You then add a link to that picture in your post.  If you add the link the right way, your picture appears here when someone views your post.  Sounds kind of cumbersome but I guess:  1) it keeps space lower on this server and 2) is probably a remnant from when Al Gore invented the internet.

[snakes]

I will check into this....Ha Ha Al Gore what a jack-a**

[snakes]

Go here for pics
http://photos.yahoo.com/rdkilll99

There are also pics of my bikes, the blue chopper I built this past winter.

[UnderTheStars]

Yeah, nice sleds!  I've got a '75 shovelhead I built from a basket case a few years back.  It's mostly stock ('75 FX) but I swapped out here & there - mostly the '81 lowrider front-end and a pair of orig. Sturgis tanks.  It's pretty sedate.

Your elect. doesn't look too bad either.  I think most electricians would have come straight out the wall into the back of the outdoor box.  That way you don't have exposed conduit below the box.  The way you ran is ok but rain water will follow the flex cond. down and run right inside the wall.  I see a lot of SE cable run like this from underside of the meter base and into a hole in the siding.  Best thing to do with that is go to the local elect. wholesale house and ask for an electrician's putty by 3-M.  I forget what it's called but you work it soft in your hands then mold it around the flexduit where it enters the side of the house.  Push it tight to the wall so a tiny amount presses into the gap between the flexduit and the hole around it.  Go for a tight seal against the siding and the conduit.  Keep an eye on it every spring/fall 'cause eventually it pulls away.  Water that seeps in will rot the wall from the inside out.

I'm not sure where your tub will sit but I'd still go for rigid sched. 80 PVC conduit, switch back to flex at the last minute.  If the PVC is not underground it has to be secured so it can't "flop around."  As far as the connections in the panel, I'd still recommend having someone come in and look.  If you don't have a buddy who's an electrician you can get someone to come look & advise for an hour's labor - usually $40 - $60.  Hey, after spending thousands for the tub, it's about the cheapest insurance you can buy.  I'm just not willing to "talk someone through" wiring.  It's too easy to miss something or be misunderstood.  Sorry!  (Others on the forum may feel differently - by all means have at it!)

Hey, you're gonna love the J345, congrats and keep posting!

[snakes]

Underthestars,
Sounds like you got a pretty nice bike yourself. I have a buddy that is electrican and he is going to come over and give it the final inspection, if changes need to be made he will recommend it.

[Lori]

Congratulations Snakes!!!

I'm sure you will love that new 345!!!

Welcome to spatopia!!!

[Brewman]

I echo the suggestion to go with schedule 80 pvc and transition to the flex for the last few feet.  Remember to allow for the length of flex iside the spa cabinet up to the electrical box.  
I'd stay away from the metal conduit.  The stuff that's approved for outdoor use is too hard to work with, and relatively expensive.  
Brewman