What's the Best Hot Tub

Author Topic: Help With Final Decision Requested  (Read 7036 times)

Chas

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Electrical stuff
« Reply #15 on: August 20, 2004, 10:34:49 am »
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I just reviewed the HS pre-delivery booklet.  Interesting.  It shows a 50Amp breaker in the main panel, with four wires going to the GFI sub panel: #8 white, #10 green ground, and two # 8 wires for the load (blue and red).
That's correct, and it works just fine. You will have room in the sub-panel for another breaker to power an outlet, lighting or other devices - be sure to GFI-protect anything near the tub.
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 The GFI sub panel which is supplied by HS has a 20 amp and a 30 amp breaker.  But from the GFI box - breakers it shows only 3 # 12 wires (???)(red, blue and white) from the 20 amp breaker to the spa,
that is fine - all you need.  
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and two #10 wires from the 30 amp breaker to the spa.
Yes: you don't need a neutral for the heater circuit. And yes, the GFI protection can and will work without a neutral.  
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Also looks like a #10 green going to te control box (at the spa ?).
 Generally you should put the same size ground conductor all the way from your main panel to the spa. If you upsize the ground between the main panel and sub panel, then run the same to the tub.
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Much smaller wires than I would have thought, though given the approx 45 feet of run to the spa would likely need to use larger wires - to make sure no voltage lost.  
45 feet is a short run - wire size should be fine as quoted. You can always upsize, just be sure you can get the wire into the terminals. The sub panel can accomodate huge wire, the spa gets a bit tighter: but you still get the benefit of lower voltage loss even if you use larger wire and trim it to fit into the terminals at the end. Up to you.  
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Also, the chart advises the GFI sub panel to be not more than 100 feet from main panel (not a problem as mine would be within one foot),
The sub panel should not be located within a five-foot 'reach radius' of the water. That's WATER, not tub. So you should either locate the sub panel farther away, or be sure to put a shelf, planter, step or somesuch over it so that there is no way to reach it while sitting in the tub.
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So wiring lookd all very possible for either model.  So, I wonder if there are there advangages to this two breaker system used by HS ?
I'm a fan of having the sub panel - I'm glad you are looking at two makers who encourage using them. They are big, meaty things that have the best method of Ground-Fault protection available.

The HS has the advantage of not sending the full 50 amp service into the tub, allowing for an extra circuit and it comes with the spa!! Also, you are splitting the tub's systems into two circuits, so if the heater has a problem the pumps can continue to run, one breaker fails, you can temp. switch to keep the tub going in a pinch. Aside from the obvious troubleshooting benefit this offer, these latter features may really be only important in freezing conditions I guess.

Both subpanels should allow for extra circuits, I know HS does.

Also, the Sub Panel and breakers that come with your HotSpring are covered by the spa warranty. Very nice. And most dealers sell them for reasonable prices if you ever move and want to start with a fresh one - though you could gut the breakers and buy a new box at a local supply house or home center. ($25).  In fact, that's a plus: HS uses GE breakers which work well and generally cost less at home centers and such.
Yes, they are still pricey, but generally less than Square D or others.

The whole idea here is to protect you better, reduce the amp limit to the tub, and allow you to go out and buy a cheaper (non GFI) breaker for your main house panel. You already have that, but most folks have to start from scratch, and not all house panels offer GFI breakers anymore.
Former HotSpring Dealer - Southern Cal.

Hot Tub Forum

Electrical stuff
« Reply #15 on: August 20, 2004, 10:34:49 am »

TimC

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Re: Electrical
« Reply #16 on: September 14, 2004, 06:54:34 pm »
I have a related question about the Electrical.

What does within sight of the tub mean for the sub-panel?

I would like to put the spa on the edge of the deck behind the house and place the box on the side of the house.  It is in sight, but just barely and only if you know where to look.

                           
            -----------------------------------------------
            |
            |
            |
            |                 House
      x| <-- Box
            |______________________________
            ________
            |               |
            |   Spa      |     Deck
            |_______ |

Does this pass Code??

Also our local code calls for Rigid Metal or Rigid Non-Metal conduit.  It sure seems like the LiquidTight flexible would be a lot easier to run under the deck than the rigid metal and the national code appears to allow for the LiquidTight.  

Is our local code just out of date and it should be OK, or should I just stick with the Rigid??


huh?

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Re: Help With Final Decision Requested
« Reply #17 on: September 14, 2004, 07:04:01 pm »
I don't know about your local codes, but I have to give some credit to someone who spent the time to do that kind of drawing.  I'm impressed.
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Brewman

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Re: Help With Final Decision Requested
« Reply #18 on: September 14, 2004, 07:06:27 pm »
I'd get the opinion of your local electrical inspector to determine if your power shutoff is considered within line of sight.  They are the ones who'd make any close calls, and yours sounds like a close call.

There is a limit on the length of sealtite (Liquid tight) conduit you can run to your spa, and I believe it's 6 feet.  But check with your local authority, as it's been over a year since I installed my conduit.

If you have to stick with rigid conduit, I'd go with schedule 80 pvc, which is rated for wiring subject to physical damage.  Schedule 40 is lighter and cheaper, but isn't allowed for wiring subject to physical damage.
Physical damage is another area to get an inspector's ruling on.  I went with schedule 80 just to play it safe.  Additional cost for my run was only a few dollars.

Rigid metal conduit (RMC) would also be allowed, but it's a bear to work with- you need to thread the ends, and have water approved elbows and such.

 Rigid EMT conduit, which is the light metal stuff, isn't allowed outside because it's not water tight.  That's the thin, lite metal conduit that connects with those set screw connectors.  Only for indoor use.

I'd run your entire plan by your inspector just to be sure.
Brewman

PS- let me know if your inspector approves your entire run in sealtite, and if they allow your shutoff to be around the corner.  Curious to what they rule.  
« Last Edit: September 14, 2004, 07:09:51 pm by Brewman »
Brewman

Hot Tub Forum

Re: Help With Final Decision Requested
« Reply #18 on: September 14, 2004, 07:06:27 pm »

 

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