What's the Best Hot Tub

Author Topic: Electric and Pad Inspection  (Read 7509 times)

Sol_Dahbrishinsky

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Electric and Pad Inspection
« on: September 07, 2004, 10:42:45 am »
Thanks for all your advice as we get closer to our decision.  "Turf-toe" is now cleared for more WTing.

I have my first electrical contractor coming to bid this week.  I am looking for a contractor who specializes in spa hookups.  However, is it feasible to have a regular (moonlighting) electrician run the wire to the box and then have a spa electrician do the final hook-ups?

Finally, must one pull a permit for a hottub?

Again thanks for your input.


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Electric and Pad Inspection
« on: September 07, 2004, 10:42:45 am »

Brewman

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Re: Electric and Pad Inspection
« Reply #1 on: September 07, 2004, 11:39:04 am »
Talk to whatever authority enforces the building codes where you live.  They'll tell you what you need to do permit wise.  I'd be willing to bet that at least you'd need to pull an electic permit.
Any electrician who know what they are doing should know the permit laws in their work area.  And they should pull the permit, not you.  That way, you are not on the hook if there are inspection issues, the person pulling the permit is, regardless of who actually did the work.  At least that's the way it is here.
This stuff can vary a lot by region.
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UnderTheStars

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Re: Electric and Pad Inspection
« Reply #2 on: September 07, 2004, 09:34:12 pm »
Yep, absolutely what Brewman said.  I'd add, don't worry so much about an elect. who specializes in Htubs.  Rather, go for a guy who is 1)ethical/honest, 2)talks QUALITY work, 3)seems to know & talk about NEC code.  (There are more electricians than you'd think who don't care about code and/or don't know it.  The good ones are familiar with much of the code and look it up
when they're not.)

Ask for & check any references given.  (You'd be amazed in the trades how many people ask for references but never call them.  I guess people think, "If he gave them out they must be ok. . .")  Finally, remember value is the sum of price AND quality.  Price alone is a cheap job.

Once you pick your ethical/honest guy, give him all the elect. install info from the tub maker.  Any good electrician will instantly understand the diagrams & printed specs on hookup.  They'll also work with you on any aesthetic concerns (how to best hide the conduit, etc.)  Good luck!


rocket

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Re: Electric and Pad Inspection
« Reply #3 on: September 07, 2004, 09:41:19 pm »
I like what under and brewman both said.  The spa crew most likely won't make the final hook up due to liability.  

The dealer where you purchased should be able to refer an electrician that other of his customers have used.

Sol_Dahbrishinsky

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Re: Electric and Pad Inspection
« Reply #4 on: September 08, 2004, 12:11:45 pm »
Had my first electrician come over last night.

We have a straight shot from sub-panel to tub area.

He gave me some ideas about placement and decking.

Thought bid would be about $600 plus $175 for HIS box.  What in your opinion is the top panel box at the spa.  Is it critical as the electrician states?

I would like to post pictures and get feed back for placement..  any one have info on how to upload?

UnderTheStars

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Re: Electric and Pad Inspection
« Reply #5 on: September 08, 2004, 12:38:32 pm »
Hi Sol!  Not sure what your electrician told you about external panels but here's my 2c, FWIW.  Breakers in outdoor installations wear out over time.  Understand how a breaker works - a flat metal spring (bi-metalic) is used that changes shape as it heats.  Current flowing through it causes the heat.  Run enough current through and the spring heats enough (changes shape) to "trip" the breaker lever and disengage elect. contact.  The bimetal spring is affected over time from exposure to the elements, humidity, etc.  Outdoor breakers have a shorter life span.  GFCI breakers by their nature have a shorter life than non-GFCI breakers.  Bottom line, don't buy cheap breakers, buy the best available.

As far as the box, similar story.  Expensive "brand" boxes will be better designed/assembled to keep rain on the outside.  Better quality control with the finish (paint job) means less raw metal edges for humidity/rain to start working on.  Don't skimp here either.

So if the elect. was saying buy top brand box/breakers - absolutely.  One more consideration - you can use GFCI breaker at the indoor panel and non-GFCI breakers outside (check with your local code office first to make sure your municipality is ok with this.)  The advantage is longer breaker life.  GFCIs will simply last longer indoors.  Regular breakers hold up better outdoors.  GFCIs are more expensive that non-GFCI.  
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Brewman

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Re: Electric and Pad Inspection
« Reply #6 on: September 08, 2004, 01:57:55 pm »
Heres what I did, and it works fine, meets NEC, and passed inspection by one helluva thorough inspector.

Put the GFI breaker in the panel, a basement sub panel in my case, and ran the power to an inexpensive 60 amp a/c non fused pull box, which was mounted to the outside of the house to kill the power to the spa.

Saved the cost of a feeder breaker on the sub panel, and the a/c pull box cost all of $10.
Brewman
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Drewski

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Re: Electric and Pad Inspection
« Reply #7 on: September 08, 2004, 03:03:59 pm »
Hi Sol:

I agree with the last comment by Brewman 100%, along with the previous discussion concerning breakers in outdoor environments.  Going with the GFCI at the indoor panel is the way to go.

Also, consider doing the "rough-in" work on your own.  For my first installation, I installed the cut-off box outside, ran conduit to the tub with 4 wire, ran conduit and 4 wire to the panel and got everything "in position" for the electrician.  When the electrician came out he checked the "rough-in" generally, installed the breaker, hooked up the "cut-off" and installed the 4 wire to the tub.  In all, he charged me $150 for a two hour job.

For my latest installation (new construction house), I had the builder pre-wire an exterior 60 AMP remote panel (outside) and did all of the installation myself.  I used an outdoor remote panel (with breakers) in my new house so I could run additional outdoor circuits if needed.  The 60 AMP feed is GFCI at the indoor panel.

Also, to save money generally, consider Ebay for electrical components.  A 50 AMP SquareD QO GFCI Breaker goes for about $60 on Ebay compared to $120 in Home Depot.

Here's an Ebay link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=26215&item=3837712821&rd=1

Good luck!

Drewski  

8)
It's a HOT tub... anything else is just a POOL!

TimC

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Re: Electric and Pad Inspection
« Reply #8 on: September 08, 2004, 03:58:18 pm »
Why don't Spas tap off the main meter directly to an outside box much the sames as a A/C Compressor does??


wmccall

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Re: Electric and Pad Inspection
« Reply #9 on: September 08, 2004, 04:19:55 pm »
Quote
Also, consider doing the "rough-in" work on your own.  For my first installation, I installed the cut-off box outside, ran conduit to the tub with 4 wire, ran conduit and 4 wire to the panel and got everything "in position" for the electrician.  When the electrician came out he checked the "rough-in" generally, installed the breaker, hooked up the "cut-off" and installed the 4 wire to the tub.  In all, he charged me $150 for a two hour job.


Good luck!

Drewski  

 8)


The rough in technique worked great for me too, saved a lot of labor from the professional, but still got his blessing.
Member since 2003.  Owner Dynasty Excalibur 2003-2012.   Sundance Majesta from 2012-current

SerjicalStrike

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Re: Electric and Pad Inspection
« Reply #10 on: September 08, 2004, 05:00:38 pm »
I gotta disagree about having the GFCI inside.  With the GFCI inside, someone always needs to be home or you will have to leave your doors open if you need service.   With the GFCI outside, the technician has everything he needs right outside.  If the breaker trips, you only have a few feet to go to reset it.    

If you want a quality breaker, try the SBSG breaker with the alarm built in.  It is a GFCI and disconnect all in one.  

In a raintight box, you won't have any problems.

George

Sol_Dahbrishinsky

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Re: Electric and Pad Inspection
« Reply #11 on: September 08, 2004, 07:20:10 pm »
Thank you all for such great advice..

My next post will be for the patio design :D

again thanks

UnderTheStars

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Re: Electric and Pad Inspection
« Reply #12 on: September 08, 2004, 07:34:10 pm »
Hi George, you're right!  You want to be able to kill power without going inside.   But what several of us are saying is, put the GFCI in the main indoor panel.  It feeds an outdoor panel mounted within sight of the spa.  Put regular breakers  or disconnect outside.

You can still kill power a few steps from the spa but the GFCI (fiendishly expensive) is indoors & protected from the elements.  You're also right about using a raintight box.  However, they are not airtight and the extra humidity outdoors will over time take a toll on the breakers.  ('Course if you buy a HotSpring like I did you don't get this option - they supply the outdoor panel with two GFCI breakers installed.)

Brewman

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Re: Electric and Pad Inspection
« Reply #13 on: September 09, 2004, 07:46:13 am »
If the GFI breaker is inside, and that breaker is suspect in the problem, then yes, someone needs to be home to let in the service person.  Otherwise, the spa power can be cut with the outdoor disconnect for the spa.  
As a general rule, I like to be home whenever any service people are at the house, even if they stay outside.  So letting someone in the basement to work with the GFI isn't a big deal in my case.  
Hopefully my spa is trouble free enough that hanging around for a repairman isn't something that happens often enough to make it inconvenient.  So far so good.
Brewman
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SerjicalStrike

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Re: Electric and Pad Inspection
« Reply #14 on: September 09, 2004, 08:30:52 am »
From my experience, GFCIs rarely go bad.  They are designed to be outside.  So why not make it easy for everyone?  The disconnect is great, but sometimes putting the disconnect in causes the GFCI to trip.  If you are not home when this happens and the GFCI is inside, there is nothing I can do.  HOPEFULLY the job is done.  HOPEFULLY it is not the dead of winter.

The GFCI on the outside just makes it easier.  When the tub is tripping the breaker and you start disconnecting things, it is much easier to walk a couple steps and try the GFCI, and see what kicks on to make the GFCI trip, than to go into a basement and do the same thing.  It is a big time saver.

George

Hot Tub Forum

Re: Electric and Pad Inspection
« Reply #14 on: September 09, 2004, 08:30:52 am »

 

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