Pavers on pad question

[zacman]

We have an existing 8'6" square pad where the old spa sat and where the new spa will go.  The issue we have is that the electrical wires come up thru the pad in a place which is not convenient to hooking up to the new spa given the direction we want the new spa to face (equipment side in front).  The existing stup rises about 5", and then we have waterproof flex conduit.   In order to get the wires to the equpment, we will need to have the new spa sit off to one side of the pad so the stub will be outside the spa footprint and then run flex outside along side of the spa to the front - which we want to avoid.  Another solution would be to put down 2' by 2' pre-cast pavers - they are about an inch and a half thick, and leave a 2" path between a row of pavers from the existing stub (which I would cut and put on a 90 degree elbow) and run the wire in the 2" path to the front of the spa and then come up thru the spa into the equipment area.  I would make sure it was in waterproof flex and otherwise protect it.  Another advantage I see with this soulution is that the spa - although treated wood underneath would be even more protected from moisture, rain.  The existing pad is exposed aggregate.  Any issues with this that I have not identified ?  Other solutions ?  

[UnderTheStars]

Try this:  Dig down at the edge of the slab where the conduit first goes underneath the slab.  Cut the conduit at that point, re-route to come over the edge of the slab at an appropriate point.  Convert to carflex at the edge of the slab.  Position so the carflex will lay on top of slab, flush to the edge of the tub base.

Where the old riser comes through the slab, cut out as much as you can and plug the hole w/concrete patch.  Keep in mind, trying to cut conduit "middle of run" and save the wire inside can be done but is risky (nick the insulation = problem.)  Pulling new wire is recommended.  Use an electrician highly recommended.  (Have elect. view site before you lay in a bunch of new conduit - code addresses how many bends you are allowed to pull wire through, etc.)

[Brewman]

You are limited by the NEC in the length of any sealtite (flex) used to hook up your spa.  I think the limit is 6' but you'd need to check to be sure.
You could attach schedule 80 pvc conduit to the existing stub, and run that closer to the point where the electric access hole is, then switch to flex for the last few feet.  
I assume you'd need to pull new wire, unless your existing wire is long enough to reach.  
Use a 90 degree service elbow to connect to your stub,  as opposed to a regular 90 degree elbow.  It will make running the wire thru the elbow much easier.
You may want to check with your local electrical inspector to be sure they are ok with your plan.  
Brewman

[Chas]

Concrete pavers sitting on exposed ag may crack. Your idea is sound, but I would go ahead and put a thin layer of mortar, or just use PT wood, which will conform to the surface.

Trex boards, cut into blocks or strips might make a good choice here.

Also, I would check into relocating the conduit - as was posted above: can you find the conduit outside of the slab?

[zacman]

Thanks for the suggestions.  Rerouting won't work though - I forgot to mention that  my level 8'6"  square pad is set in a larger slightly sloping swimming pool concrete aggregate deck so digging down to access and reroute not possible.  I will check out the other options mentioned.  I don't have enough wire - have only about 4' in 3'6" of flex at the end of the stub but planned on pulling the #8 out anyway and putting in #6.  Whatever I put down I want to stay put and last and somewhat protect the bottom of the spa.

[zacman]

The forum is back!  Anyway, an update - dealer made a pre-site visit and determined that because the stub would only be about 6" in from the side, he can drill a hole in the bottom  into the foam and then take off a side panel, drill a half to an inch hole about 6" laterally to meet that hole and then we can set the tub down as we feed the wires into the tub and run them along the side of the space between the cabinet sides and the foam - running it to the front to the equipment.  I need longer wires but I was going to pull my numer 8 wires anyway and rerun number 8s.   Problem solved. I will very generously silicon caulk everything before we sit the spa down so all will be sealed.

[Brewman]

Are you going to re run #8 or #6?  You'll need #6 copper to supply power to a 50 amp breaker.  Wasn't sure if your above statement was a typo or not.  If you spa requires a 40 amp or less breaker, then your #8 should be ok.
Brewman

[zacman]

A typo. I am going to pull out the existing number 8 and pull thru new number 6 wires of a longer length to take me to the front of the spa from where the old elec suub pops thru the pad - it will be at the right side towards rear and about 5- 6" in from the side - so we will drill into the foam about 5-6".  The dealer tells me there is a lot of foam there and no problem to do so. Because is a SD Optima dealer advises I need only three wires.  I now have four including the ground.

[Brewman]

That is correct, the Optima needs only 2 hot leads, and the insulated ground.  No need for a neutral there.
This is one tub where you can go with the 60 or 50 amp breaker.  Either one is served with #6 copper.
Hope you enjoy your new tub.
Brewman

[dazedandconfused]

Out of curiosity, what is the best way to pull wires thru a conduit?  Is there an easy way?

[Brewman]

Fish tape and wire lube.
Brewman