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These are what I use in the floater : http://www.hottubessentials.ca/chlorine-spa-tabs-800-gm-trichlor-mini-tablets.html
Can someone outline what's involved in switching over to a dichlor system? are there any benefits to dichlor over a bromine system?as a newbie I am overwhelmed with all the different info and products out there for spa water maintenance.Just looking for some recommendations on what I should be doing as I have just been following what my dealer set me up with, weather it is correct or not.
Quote from: GB9 on October 17, 2017, 07:18:04 amCan someone outline what's involved in switching over to a dichlor system? are there any benefits to dichlor over a bromine system?as a newbie I am overwhelmed with all the different info and products out there for spa water maintenance.Just looking for some recommendations on what I should be doing as I have just been following what my dealer set me up with, weather it is correct or not.Your water is already chlorine-based, so there is no real "switch" other than dropping the tri-chlor tablets for di-chlor granulars. The biggest concern with tabletized chlorine is that it allows for a build up of gas. This gas is harmful to breath, and it takes its toll on the lining of the cover as well as the headrests. Granular chlorine (Sodium Dichlor) cannot tabletize and therefor is a good sanitizer in a hot tub. The key is to allow for your cover to stay open after you add chlorine for about 15 mins or so. Use potassium peroxymonopersulfate approx. once a week to help oxidize dead algae and bacteria, dead skin cells, and other organic material. Keep pH 7.2-7.8 at all times, with the alk running 80-120ppm. If you subscribe to an alkalinity of 100-150, do not be surprised to see your pH climb and climb the closer to 150 ppm you hover.The benefits to Di-chlor is that it is cheap and easy. Bromine is a tad softer on your skin, has less odor (eventhough it is like 30% chlorine) but it tends to cost a smidge more and you have to deal with a floater. Nature 2/Spa Frog is the third most common way to treat your tub. It tends to be the softest on your skin and offer the least amount of odor, but tends to cost the most (in relative figures). I can operate all three w/o issue. Its more about your comfort, how often you use your hot tub, and what agrees with you. I hope this helps. Good luck moving forward.
Quote from: The Wizard of Spas on October 17, 2017, 06:15:27 pmQuote from: GB9 on October 17, 2017, 07:18:04 amCan someone outline what's involved in switching over to a dichlor system? are there any benefits to dichlor over a bromine system?as a newbie I am overwhelmed with all the different info and products out there for spa water maintenance.Just looking for some recommendations on what I should be doing as I have just been following what my dealer set me up with, weather it is correct or not.Your water is already chlorine-based, so there is no real "switch" other than dropping the tri-chlor tablets for di-chlor granulars. The biggest concern with tabletized chlorine is that it allows for a build up of gas. This gas is harmful to breath, and it takes its toll on the lining of the cover as well as the headrests. Granular chlorine (Sodium Dichlor) cannot tabletize and therefor is a good sanitizer in a hot tub. The key is to allow for your cover to stay open after you add chlorine for about 15 mins or so. Use potassium peroxymonopersulfate approx. once a week to help oxidize dead algae and bacteria, dead skin cells, and other organic material. Keep pH 7.2-7.8 at all times, with the alk running 80-120ppm. If you subscribe to an alkalinity of 100-150, do not be surprised to see your pH climb and climb the closer to 150 ppm you hover.The benefits to Di-chlor is that it is cheap and easy. Bromine is a tad softer on your skin, has less odor (eventhough it is like 30% chlorine) but it tends to cost a smidge more and you have to deal with a floater. Nature 2/Spa Frog is the third most common way to treat your tub. It tends to be the softest on your skin and offer the least amount of odor, but tends to cost the most (in relative figures). I can operate all three w/o issue. Its more about your comfort, how often you use your hot tub, and what agrees with you. I hope this helps. Good luck moving forward.Very good info thank you.. How often do you find you need to add the di-chlor? what would be a common weekly routine be?with the chems I was set up with from my dealer, (outlined above) I was advised to keep my levels @CHLORINE:[/u] KEEP LEVELS BETWEEN 1 & 3ALKALINITY: KEEP OVER 120 AT ALL TIMES: This means in the top 2 blocks on your strips (180-240)PH: KEEP OVER 7.4 AT ALL TIMES: If it’s low, it is usually caused by low AlkalinityCALCIUM: KEEP OVER 150