Spa Frog / Nature 2 / Others ?

[bradleyabell]

I may be a contrarian, and I am not implying that I am smarter or better informed than others, but I have never had an issue with CYA (Stabilizer) in a standard hot tub cover that is closed.  Yes:  There is some CYA in Di-Chlor.  But generally when that becomes an issue (ie- it is too high), so is your TDS, so on so forth and it is time to drain anyways. 

I understand that a build in CYA can cause issues.  I wonder, though, how much of this is dealers trying to get people to buy chemicals vs the tangible issue at hand? 

This is coming from a former dealer who now works for a manufacturer.  We don't put anything in our fine print about it, and the company who manufactures our chems doesn't mention it to us.

But this is just one point of view....

******

Di-Chlor *is* the chlorine.  Stabilizer is its own thing, but Di-Clor does have trace amounts of stabilizer in it.  Those that worry about it switch to bleach at some point once the CYA is at a level that they take issue with.  Another reason I don't worry is that 2 people in a hot tub is like 20 people in 10k gallon pool.  The only real issue with high CYA is chlorine lock.  But at the aforementioned ratio, its hard to have a tangible issue with it, as you tend to plow through chlorine in hot tubs, so a "lock" isn't going to really take place.  Make sense?

******

The Nature 2/Spa Frog is likely the most common sanitization method out there.  I don't prefer either as they are both the same, realistically.  I have sold both and just prefer N2 cause its cheaper.  If the Frog was cheaper, I'd do that.  Chlorine is cheap and easy but more smell, rougher on the skin.  N2/Frog is softer on the skin and with less odor, but it costs more.

As bud16415 said:  There are numerous ways to sanitize.  There is no wrong answer.  Just wrong ways of executing the method that you choose. 

I hope this helps.  Good luck moving forward.

***EDIT:  This was written before the post above me was posted so parts of my response was already answered by others.

Thank you for this very detailed explanation!!  I am leaning towards using the Nature2 plus dichlor and MPS and not using a floater in my tub. What do you guys think?

MPS is an *OXIDIZER*- It clears out everything, allowing the sanitizer to be more effective.  Di-Chlor is a *SANITIZER* which is the only thing that will really kill all the things you should be worried about.  The only EPA (And APSP)-approved sanitizers are chlorine, bromine, and biguianides.  N2 will need chlorine, so that is why you're learning about it. 

CYA is usually on a pad on a chlorine test strip.  Again- I'd be surprised if CYA is anything you actually need to worry about, for the aforementioned reasons in earlier posts.

If it were you...Would you get the spa frog filter mineral stick+floater with bromine or use the Nature2 stick plus dichlor/MPS?  I am torn between these 2 options.  I like the idea of the bromine floater, as I won't have to monitor it as much once I get the chemicals balanced...But the Nature2 seems more attractive for minerals, but is not compatible with bromine.

[The Wizard of Spas]

I may be a contrarian, and I am not implying that I am smarter or better informed than others, but I have never had an issue with CYA (Stabilizer) in a standard hot tub cover that is closed.  Yes:  There is some CYA in Di-Chlor.  But generally when that becomes an issue (ie- it is too high), so is your TDS, so on so forth and it is time to drain anyways. 

I understand that a build in CYA can cause issues.  I wonder, though, how much of this is dealers trying to get people to buy chemicals vs the tangible issue at hand? 

This is coming from a former dealer who now works for a manufacturer.  We don't put anything in our fine print about it, and the company who manufactures our chems doesn't mention it to us.

But this is just one point of view....

******

Di-Chlor *is* the chlorine.  Stabilizer is its own thing, but Di-Clor does have trace amounts of stabilizer in it.  Those that worry about it switch to bleach at some point once the CYA is at a level that they take issue with.  Another reason I don't worry is that 2 people in a hot tub is like 20 people in 10k gallon pool.  The only real issue with high CYA is chlorine lock.  But at the aforementioned ratio, its hard to have a tangible issue with it, as you tend to plow through chlorine in hot tubs, so a "lock" isn't going to really take place.  Make sense?

******

The Nature 2/Spa Frog is likely the most common sanitization method out there.  I don't prefer either as they are both the same, realistically.  I have sold both and just prefer N2 cause its cheaper.  If the Frog was cheaper, I'd do that.  Chlorine is cheap and easy but more smell, rougher on the skin.  N2/Frog is softer on the skin and with less odor, but it costs more.

As bud16415 said:  There are numerous ways to sanitize.  There is no wrong answer.  Just wrong ways of executing the method that you choose. 

I hope this helps.  Good luck moving forward.

***EDIT:  This was written before the post above me was posted so parts of my response was already answered by others.

Thank you for this very detailed explanation!!  I am leaning towards using the Nature2 plus dichlor and MPS and not using a floater in my tub. What do you guys think?

MPS is an *OXIDIZER*- It clears out everything, allowing the sanitizer to be more effective.  Di-Chlor is a *SANITIZER* which is the only thing that will really kill all the things you should be worried about.  The only EPA (And APSP)-approved sanitizers are chlorine, bromine, and biguianides.  N2 will need chlorine, so that is why you're learning about it. 

CYA is usually on a pad on a chlorine test strip.  Again- I'd be surprised if CYA is anything you actually need to worry about, for the aforementioned reasons in earlier posts.

If it were you...Would you get the spa frog filter mineral stick+floater with bromine or use the Nature2 stick plus dichlor/MPS?  I am torn between these 2 options.  I like the idea of the bromine floater, as I won't have to monitor it as much once I get the chemicals balanced...But the Nature2 seems more attractive for minerals, but is not compatible with bromine.

Both have minerals.  And to be fair- You're really deep into the nuances of sanitizers.  I don't have a preference between the two as they are both great and the differences are marginal at best.  I'd go for the cheaper option, but I'll let others chime in if they have a definite preference. 

[buba]

I have used the Brilliance for Spa bromine floater (granular bromine) plus a Spa Frog green mineral cartridge (stashed in the filter compartment) in the past with success. A Brilliance for Spa startup kit and green frog stick was included when I purchased the Spa. I have recently been experimenting with the flippn frog (chlorine).  Still undecided whether to continue with the flippn frog are go back to the Brilliance granular bromine floater/mineral stick method.

[bradleyabell]

I have used the Brilliance for Spa bromine floater (granular bromine) plus a Spa Frog green mineral cartridge (stashed in the filter compartment) in the past with success. A Brilliance for Spa startup kit and green frog stick was included when I purchased the Spa. I have recently been experimenting with the flippn frog (chlorine).  Still undecided whether to continue with the flippn frog are go back to the Brilliance granular bromine floater/mineral stick method.

Hi Buba - Just curious as to why you are switching if you had success with the green frog+bromine floater?  I am thinking this may be the way I go, as it appears after some more research that bromine requires less maintenance than chlorine.

[buba]

I have used the Brilliance for Spa bromine floater (granular bromine) plus a Spa Frog green mineral cartridge (stashed in the filter compartment) in the past with success. A Brilliance for Spa startup kit and green frog stick was included when I purchased the Spa. I have recently been experimenting with the flippn frog (chlorine).  Still undecided whether to continue with the flippn frog are go back to the Brilliance granular bromine floater/mineral stick method.

Hi Buba - Just curious as to why you are switching if you had success with the green frog+bromine floater?  I am thinking this may be the way I go, as it appears after some more research that bromine requires less maintenance than chlorine.

I was interested in the claimed once a month features of the flippn frog system. What I have found with my bather load is that the flippn frog still requires weekly shocking and water testing. In my case, not speaking for anyone else, I do not see a lot of difference between the Brilliance granular bromine system supplemented with a green spa frog mineral stick and the flippn frog chlorine system. The Brilliance system claims it uses less bromine than other bromine systems while flippn frog claims it uses less chlorine than other chlorine systems. I have one more flippn frog refill and will need to decide which way to go after that,  but right now the Brilliance system with mineral stick appears to be lower cost than the flippn frog (@ease) with similar weekly maintenance requirements.

[meriflower]

I have used Brilliance and recommend the product.  Since I purchased a new spa (Marquis Spirit) with a Frog in-line system I'm using the Frog @ease smartchlor.  It's coming up to a month and so far everything is great and it's working like they say.  It's important that you have PH/ALK/Calcium within levels.  I do weekly testing.  I have only shocked once.  One thing I personally have found I do not have that chlorine smell - I really like that.  Also that my water is always clean and clear.  I will probably stay with Frog @ease smartchlor.

[bradleyabell]

I have used the Brilliance for Spa bromine floater (granular bromine) plus a Spa Frog green mineral cartridge (stashed in the filter compartment) in the past with success. A Brilliance for Spa startup kit and green frog stick was included when I purchased the Spa. I have recently been experimenting with the flippn frog (chlorine).  Still undecided whether to continue with the flippn frog are go back to the Brilliance granular bromine floater/mineral stick method.

Hi Buba - Just curious as to why you are switching if you had success with the green frog+bromine floater?  I am thinking this may be the way I go, as it appears after some more research that bromine requires less maintenance than chlorine.

I was interested in the claimed once a month features of the flippn frog system. What I have found with my bather load is that the flippn frog still requires weekly shocking and water testing. In my case, not speaking for anyone else, I do not see a lot of difference between the Brilliance granular bromine system supplemented with a green spa frog mineral stick and the flippn frog chlorine system. The Brilliance system claims it uses less bromine than other bromine systems while flippn frog claims it uses less chlorine than other chlorine systems. I have one more flippn frog refill and will need to decide which way to go after that,  but right now the Brilliance system with mineral stick appears to be lower cost than the flippn frog (@ease) with similar weekly maintenance requirements.

When you say brilliance system, you just mean bromine tablets in a floater right?

[buba]

Its a form of granular Bromine. It uses a floater with a screen to keep the granules in place within the tube until they dissolve. Otherwise the floater is like the common ones sold at many outlets. The bromine granules are supposed to be more pure and require less supporting chemicals than the bromine tablets.

http://www.brillianceforspas.com/