Hot tub tripping the breaker.

[999]

I changed the water in my Jacuzzi J230CD hot tub last week. Lifted the lid today and the water was cold. Found that the breaker had tripped.

Switched it back and it tripped several times when the heater light came on on the control panel. So to test this I turned it on again and immediately turned the thermostat to below the water temperature so that the heater didn't come on and found that the breaker didn't trip. Tested the pumps, air, ozonator, lights, stereo and all works okay. Raised the temp on the control panel so that the heater light came on and it immediately tripped the breaker.

Am I right in assuming that the heater element needs replacing or could it be something else.

Priced up a new heater at around £190....so not cheap.

[bud16415]

Sounds like heater to me.

You did power down the tub before draining the water?

It is odd it would go right after changing water but then again with fresh water the heater works extra hard for 24 hours. 

[999]

I did turn the power off before draining and refilling, and when full turned it back on and all seemed to be working, but as you say it would be working full time to get the water up to temp.

Today I have disconnected the heater at the control box and turned up the thermostat.The heater light came on at the control panel and I heard the click of a relay that would turn on the heater but the power remained on. Did the same with the heater connected and it tripped the breaker again. I think this tells me that it is the heater that is the problem.

I have sourced the new part for £160 (GBP) and had a look at it and it looks fairly simple to fit. I have been quoted £300 to supply and fit so am thinking of doing it myself.

The only thing that I am unsure about is where the heater connects at both ends to a flexible transparent pipe. The pipe fits over the heater tube and has a big spring clip holding it tight. My worry is that it will leak at these connections. Do you have to use some sort of sealant where the flexible pipe fits over the metal tube of the heater?

[bud16415]

That part of your question I don’t know the answer to. The tech people here should be along and tell you step by step what you need to do.

The thing with GFCI is it will trigger at the slightest imbalance in current. Your heater itself is most likely fine but the slightest of water leakage going between power and ground will trigger the GFCI. I have seen where it wasn’t even a leak just weeping will cause it.

Good luck on the replacement and let’s see what the pros say.

[Tman122]

I did turn the power off before draining and refilling, and when full turned it back on and all seemed to be working, but as you say it would be working full time to get the water up to temp.

Today I have disconnected the heater at the control box and turned up the thermostat.The heater light came on at the control panel and I heard the click of a relay that would turn on the heater but the power remained on. Did the same with the heater connected and it tripped the breaker again. I think this tells me that it is the heater that is the problem.

I have sourced the new part for £160 (GBP) and had a look at it and it looks fairly simple to fit. I have been quoted £300 to supply and fit so am thinking of doing it myself.

The only thing that I am unsure about is where the heater connects at both ends to a flexible transparent pipe. The pipe fits over the heater tube and has a big spring clip holding it tight. My worry is that it will leak at these connections. Do you have to use some sort of sealant where the flexible pipe fits over the metal tube of the heater?

I am assuming your purchasing just the element and not the tube/element together. Not sure about the covering your talking about? There are ceramic gaskets that go inside and heat activated epoxy on the element leads, they should come with most new elements, verify this with the supplier to be sure. I use a high temp RTV sealant also on the outside where the leads penetrate the metal tube. Be sure to replace the pressure/flow sensor at the same time. This is common practice when changing a heater element.

[999]

I am looking at purchasing the whole heater unit as I don't think you can just buy the element. It's not your usual pipe looking heater, it looks like a trombone.

https://www.outdoorlivinghottubs.co.uk/collections/hot-tub-and-jacuzzi-heaters-and-parts/products/jacuzzi-heater-j300

[Tman122]

I am looking at purchasing the whole heater unit as I don't think you can just buy the element. It's not your usual pipe looking heater, it looks like a trombone.

https://www.outdoorlivinghottubs.co.uk/collections/hot-tub-and-jacuzzi-heaters-and-parts/products/jacuzzi-heater-j300

Yikes, Jacuzzi proprietary parts. Sorry, you can do it but i'm not the pro for you. I could do it to but I am handy. Install it and let us know how it goes.

[999]

Spent about 5 hours taking my time to fit the heater. It was a bit awkward to get at and I had to take the control panel out to get at it. Whilst there I also fitted a new Del APG-U ozone generator, new piping and check valves. Spent £300 (GBP) on parts but all is working fine now. Having looked at the old heater I could see that there was water in the electrics side of the component and some of the terminals were rusty. Pleased with the finished result.

[Tman122]

Spent about 5 hours taking my time to fit the heater. It was a bit awkward to get at and I had to take the control panel out to get at it. Whilst there I also fitted a new Del APG-U ozone generator, new piping and check valves. Spent £300 (GBP) on parts but all is working fine now. Having looked at the old heater I could see that there was water in the electrics side of the component and some of the terminals were rusty. Pleased with the finished result.

Niceeeeee, good work.

[bud16415]

Congrats on the DIY fix. it is good the GFIC is doing its job. if it wasn't in there you would see the ends melted off, and could have had high voltage in your water.