Hot Tub Suggestions Installed on Sloped Earth

[Tman122]

Whats the spacing between those beams? What is your choice for decking?

[jukeboxpunk]

Spacing is short less than 42".  Planning on using 2x6 for decking. Going to use 2x8 for deck frame. deck frame will be cantilevered over sides of beams about 1.5'.  The right side beams will be adjusted when i attach them to extend over to the right a bit more, and almost flush with the posts on the left side. Don't want to be close to that birch.

[bud16415]

Looking good 

[jukeboxpunk]

As far as running conduit and digging, im thinking of digging right before or just after  my beams. then carry the conduit the rest of the way attached to beams then punch through decking in the spot i need, rather than digging an 18" deep trench that will disturb my footings and surrounding soil. plus its less digging.

[Tman122]

Spacing is short less than 42".  Planning on using 2x6 for decking. Going to use 2x8 for deck frame. deck frame will be cantilevered over sides of beams about 1.5'.  The right side beams will be adjusted when i attach them to extend over to the right a bit more, and almost flush with the posts on the left side. Don't want to be close to that birch.

Spacing on the 2x8 joists?

[bud16415]

I ran mine up thru the bottom of the service area. I ran seal-tite right thru the deck and into the connection box. I would switch to seal-tite after I came out of the ground.

[jukeboxpunk]

Spacing on Joists will be 12" Oc. with some of the center joists getting sistered.  Maybe every other joist gets sistered under the tub space. Definitely going to do some blocking.

I will try that seal tight stuff out.  I am running 1.5" PVC pipe underground. Than I can reduce down on the hot tub end like you said.

[Tman122]

Spacing on Joists will be 12" Oc. with some of the center joists getting sistered.  Maybe every other joist gets sistered under the tub space. Definitely going to do some blocking.

I will try that seal tight stuff out.  I am running 1.5" PVC pipe underground. Than I can reduce down on the hot tub end like you said.

Definitely beefy enough.

[jukeboxpunk]

Clear skies this morning let me get a few steps ahead!

[jukeboxpunk]

Progress is going slow as of lately...

Posts and beams are installed.

Ran my conduit from my main panel into my eaves where i have it coiled up for now. Still have to pull the wire.

Bought a Main Plug-on Neutral Breaker Load center instead of the Spa-Panel disconnect. I have an electrician buddy who guided me in to getting the panel, as I may want to expand my lighting options around where the hot tub will be and I can just use the panel for that in addition to the tub.

Ive been reading some about how the Spa Panel is connected to the main panel.  One site indicates "feeder breaker (in the house service panel) must be of the specified size, and that the GFCI breaker in the disconnect panel must be at least that size (larger is fine) and is GFCI protected for safety." 

Im confused here...

My GFCI breaker for the hot tub is a 50amp. My breaker for the main panel or feeder panel is 60amp, since I want to add lighting etc... To me it doesn't make sense to have a breaker in the feeder panel be equal or less than the hot tub gfci breaker.

So that would mean I would have to have a 50 amp breaker in the feeder/main or less at the main. That doesnt seem right, right?

[bud16415]

You’re making a sub panel out at your tub no different than someone putting a sub panel in their garage. Many people run a 100a sub to the garage and then out there they will put in a 30a for a welder and a few 20a for plugs and 15 a for lighting etc. the thing is the wire running to the sub has to be sized for the 100a load back at the house.

In your case you ran #6 I think and that should be fine for the 60a breaker in the house. Then you have your 50a protection for the tub plus GFCI and then an additional 15a GFCI for some lighting and the boom box.

My tub is 50a  but has two separate breakers in the sub panel one for the heater and one for the pumps. It also has room for a 120v breaker if I ever wanted to add it. At my main panel I feed it from a 50a breaker.

I think you are fine with how you are doing it but if your friend is an electrician run it by him and make sure it is all code where you live.

[BullFrogSpasMN]

You’re making a sub panel out at your tub no different than someone putting a sub panel in their garage. Many people run a 100a sub to the garage and then out there they will put in a 30a for a welder and a few 20a for plugs and 15 a for lighting etc. the thing is the wire running to the sub has to be sized for the 100a load back at the house.

In your case you ran #6 I think and that should be fine for the 60a breaker in the house. Then you have your 50a protection for the tub plus GFCI and then an additional 15a GFCI for some lighting and the boom box.

My tub is 50a  but has two separate breakers in the sub panel one for the heater and one for the pumps. It also has room for a 120v breaker if I ever wanted to add it. At my main panel I feed it from a 50a breaker.

I think you are fine with how you are doing it but if your friend is an electrician run it by him and make sure it is all code where you live.

Based off my rusty memory I believe 6 gauge will handle up to 105-110 amps which may work for an application where there isn't a constant heavy load, otherwise to be safe run #4 and you'll be plenty good to tie in a 100amp subpanel

[Tman122]

You’re making a sub panel out at your tub no different than someone putting a sub panel in their garage. Many people run a 100a sub to the garage and then out there they will put in a 30a for a welder and a few 20a for plugs and 15 a for lighting etc. the thing is the wire running to the sub has to be sized for the 100a load back at the house.

In your case you ran #6 I think and that should be fine for the 60a breaker in the house. Then you have your 50a protection for the tub plus GFCI and then an additional 15a GFCI for some lighting and the boom box.

My tub is 50a  but has two separate breakers in the sub panel one for the heater and one for the pumps. It also has room for a 120v breaker if I ever wanted to add it. At my main panel I feed it from a 50a breaker.

I think you are fine with how you are doing it but if your friend is an electrician run it by him and make sure it is all code where you live.

Based off my rusty memory I believe 6 gauge will handle up to 105-110 amps which may work for an application where there isn't a constant heavy load, otherwise to be safe run #4 and you'll be plenty good to tie in a 100amp subpanel

There is a calculator for the length of the run also. The longer the run the more amperage drop.

[jukeboxpunk]

Ok I should be good to go according to electrician buddy.  Load Center is fine and I will never be using more than 60 amps on this center. If for some reason I need to increase it I will run 4awg to the LC. But this is all only for a hot tub and maybe some additional lighting.

Got my panel mounted and my feeder line pulled. I still have to secure my conduit to the exterior wall. Had to use a metal offset cause no one carries a pvc offset in 1.5" diameter. Put some duct seal on the joint to the panel and also on all mounting hardware.

I still have to dig the rest of my trench, attach conduit, pull hot tub wire through and into LC. But I am going to hold off on that portion for now, as it will be awhile before I have the tub delivered and no use having the wire coiled up and left out in the weather.

That leads me to framing my deck, which is the stuff I enjoy doing. Just have to go buy the lumber and hardware.

Pic below is of the mounted panel, 6awg wire and yes I am currently using the panel as storage too for the time being! It's my little area!! I might just throw a beer in there for emergencies.





 

[bud16415]

Actually the length of the run and the size of the wire cause a higher resistance that causes a voltage drop. The lower voltage the greater the current to do the same job.