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We've had our hot tub for a year now. When the dealer delivered it chlorine granules were included (along with other chemicals), but I struggled to get the balance right and the water always looked a little cloudy. Raise the pH, add shock, lower the pH, add chlorine, repeat... A couple of months ago I wanted to get in but realized I was out of chlorine. We live out in the country and there isn't a spa supply store within an hour so I went to WalMart and picked up some HtH chlorine. When I went to put it in the tub I realized it was tablets (pellets?) about 1-2 inches in diameter, and the instructions said to not let them sit on the tub finish. Since I wanted to get in that evening I got a plastic cup with a lid, drilled some holes, put in the tablets and let it float for the rest of the day. That night when I opened the lid I was shocked to see the water was as clear as a bottle of Ozarka. The following weekend I picked up a water test kit, changed the pH a little (can't remember up or down), and have had a full winter of perfect water.To me (and my non-expert opinion) chlorine is chlorine and the format used shouldn't matter. Do any of the experts or more experienced users disagree?
Well... the question is kinda loaded as there are many ways to frame/answer that question. The absolute most important thing is that chlorine should not ever be mixed when encapsulated within a floater or automatic feeder. That will indeed cause an explosion. Thus- If you have Tri-Chlor still in your floater and add Cal-Hypo tabs, you're asking for trouble (I've seen in real life out on a service call).Furthermore- Using tablets in a hot tub is really asking for trouble in general: Chlorine emits a gas that can build up and be noxious when you open the cover. Additionally- The gas can degrade the underside of your cover and allow it to take on water and decrease the life of said cover. That is why granulated chlorine is called "Quick Dissolve" so that it limits the amount of gas it lets off. The preferred method when using a standard chlorine is to add granulated product to the water and leave the cover off for 15-20 mins to allow for burn-off.Not trying to be a show-off or snotty- But chlorine tablets in hot tubs are just a bad idea. And I have to implore you to test and regulate pH and alkalinity with more frequency as it also not only keeps your sanitizer working at maximum efficiency (and you can use less) but it keeps parts from breaking down sooner, which is unlikely covered under warranty.Hope this helps. Good luck moving forward.
Well... the question is kinda loaded as there are many ways to frame/answer that question. The absolute most important thing is that chlorine should not ever be mixed when encapsulated within a floater or automatic feeder. That will indeed cause an explosion. Thus- If you have Tri-Chlor still in your floater and add Cal-Hypo tabs, you're asking for trouble (I've seen in real life out on a service call).Furthermore- Using tablets in a hot tub is really asking for trouble in general: Chlorine emits a gas that can build up and be noxious when you open the cover. Additionally- The gas can degrade the underside of your cover and allow it to take on water and decrease the life of said cover. That is why granulated chlorine is called "Quick Dissolve" so that it limits the amount of gas it lets off. The preferred method when using a standard chlorine is to add granulated product to the water and leave the cover off for 15-20 mins to allow for burn-off.Not trying to be a show-off or snotty- But chlorine tablets in hot tubs are just a bad idea. And I have to implore you to test and regulate pH and alkalinity with more frequency as it also not only keeps your sanitizer working at maximum efficiency but it keeps parts from breaking down sooner, which is unlikely covered under warranty.Hope this helps. Good luck moving forward.