Does anyone have a spa with both CD ozonator and UV?

[Starman]

If you do what has been your need to add a sanitizer and shock? And in what quantities?

Also have you had to balance your ph much?



Thank you

[The Wizard of Spas]

You're mixing a few things that are not the same:  CD (Corona Discharge- Sucks in oxygen and electronically converts it, aka "chip") is one way to introduce O3 into your water supply.  UV (Ultra Violet light) is another way. 

You have one or the other.

Regardless, standard ozone at best can kill up to 20% of the bacteria in the water.  Meaning at best you use 20% less chemicals.  You still have to balance pH, alkalinity, and use a sanitizer.  There is nothing on the planet that will replace the need to balance those three facets of water chemistry.

Some brands have super-galactic awesome blah blah blah water treatment systems built in (ClearRay, Crystal AOP, etc) that do this and that but you still have to balance water even though a salesman will tell you how "easy" it is.

Most UV ozone last 6-12 mos before they burn out.  CD last 2-3 years on average.  Then you have super-galactic awesome blah blah blah water treatment systems that may last longer- up to 5 years or so.  Most people don't even realize their ozonator went out.

As far as water chemistry:  Think of it in terms of another question- How often do you put gas in your car or buy groceries?

The answer is "as often as necessary."  The more you use the tub, the longer the usage time per session, the more bodies per session, etc are all factors. 

Start with testing 2x-3x per week and stay that way.  It promotes good habits, as the "look" of the water is not nearly as relevant as the chemistry.  Water chemistry mismanagement is a huge loophole in warranties that every manufacturer takes advantage of.

Water chemistry effects heaters, jets (Ball bearings or not.  This is a HUGE misnomer in the industry regarding jets:  The PLASTIC of the jet will get eaten away, the ball bearings do not.  Thus if you have bad water chemistry your jets will break regardless of the unaffected ball bearings), pillows, covers, and your skin.  So be sure to keep it in line. 

I hope this helps.  Good luck moving forward.

[Starman]

Thanks for the response but I have both,contrary to your belief.

 I Purchased a Maax 781 which has both their clean zone  and clean zone 2

 The CleanZone II™ system uses the power of UVC light, the clean zone is a CleanZone™ is a cartridge ozone system.

I am aware it will need sanitizer I am trying to find out how much less  etc.

[The Wizard of Spas]

Ah- You have one of the super-galactic awesome blah blah blah water treatment systems that I mentioned. 

Del ozone is the biggest guy out there for the manufacturing of ozone and going off of them, you have two ozone components working in conjunction, usually with a large water chamber to force water through so that as much ozone as possible is manifested in the water.

Plasma is newer and a step up from CD and that is one of the types of ozone generators you have.  I do CrystalAOP from Artesian, but the other top end companies have something similar/same as CleanZone, CrystalAOP, etc.

The key to those systems usually is you have your dual components that are generally longer lasting (up to 5 years) and they have some form of basin or elongated plumbing to give the ozone maximum contact with the water, to increase the maximum amount of bacteria killed.

Most standard (and that is the key phrase) ozone systems have one ozone component and shorter plumbing.  Thats why I say you can kill *up to* 20% of the bacteria.  Thats because the ozonator can be chip or UV, and they're only as good as how long of a line it is given to allow the oxygen to make contact with the water.  The shorter the line, the less time the ozone and water are in contact, the less likely it hits that 20% mark, and vice-versa.

New high end systems offer more (as mentioned above) so you have the potential to get more (2 ozones instead of one, and the plumbing to maximize its potential), but I wouldn't say much more, or at least enough to really see a gigantic difference in how the is maintained what you have to do additionally.  And what you have to do is based again upon usage habits and the type of sanitizer (chlorine vs bromine vs nature 2/spa frog, so on, so forth).

Does this make better sense now?  Not trying to knock your product in any way.  Just trying to be more realistic as to the function and benefits of it.

EDIT:  Spelling errors corrected

[Starman]

Well yes I Understand .

What I was wondering is how much less sanitizer is needed, I plan on using chlorine. The dealer is saying 1 teaspoon for every 2 people after use. And using spa marvel he claims no need to shock unless there is an unusually heavy load. SO I was trying to see what other people's actual experience was who also  have a wiz bang  system like mine.


 

[The Wizard of Spas]

Yeah- That is the one issue I have with dealers saying use [blanket statement amount]:  It doesn't take in consideration of the time spent bathing.  If you have 2 people in the tub, but one time its for 15 mins vs another time for 90 mins, why would you use the same amount of sanitizer?

Chlorine dosages will be based upon the amount of active ingredient of the di-chlor along with the other variables mentioned in the thread.  When you first get the tub you'll use it erratically but after a few months you settle into a routine.  Shocking (typically with potassium peroxymonopersulfate, aka MPS) may not need to be a regular part of your routine but if you do have a heavy bather load (or elongated usage times) with some frequency then it may be once a week or more.

Put it this way:  Ozone is at best going to be an assistant to your overall water chemistry.  Think of it like your filter:  It will help keep the water clean but it wont clear up green water.  At best ozone and filters are a small part of your overall chemistry (The differences between various ozonators or various filters are too small to change your overall water chemistry game plan). 

You'll find bigger differences between the type of sanitizers.  Chlorine is cheap and easy.  Mineralizers (ala Spa Frog, Nature 2, etc) have more components and cost but are softer on the skin, and bromine is in between the two.  If anything- this will have way more bearing on what and how often you use chemicals vs ozone, filters, etc.

Sorry if this sounds snarky or dismissive.  So not what I am trying to convey.  I just find misleading information to be trite.  This industry relies heavily on the lack of information the standard customer has so salespeople tend to either over simplify, over promise, or both. 

Good luck moving forward.

[BullFrogSpasMN]

In lieu of a nice salt system we sell I haven't actively sold ozone in quite some time but in my opinion I don't see the advantage of 2 ozone systems, but I guess if they are built into the spa correctly it could "technically" help reduce chemical usage...bottom line like Wizard mentioned above, the effectiveness of an ozone system often comes down to bather load/bather length/etc. and if it is properly built into the spa with a contact chamber, etc. Also keep in mind a UV ozone type system will require a yearly bulb change and a CD type will simply require a replacement 3-4 years down the road as well....good luck!

[Hottubguy]

Well yes I Understand .

What I was wondering is how much less sanitizer is needed, I plan on using chlorine. The dealer is saying 1 teaspoon for every 2 people after use. And using spa marvel he claims no need to shock unless there is an unusually heavy load. SO I was trying to see what other people's actual experience was who also  have a wiz bang  system like mine.

If you are using that much chlorine what is the benefit of using spa marvel?  I have a ozonator on my tub but it doesn't really affect how much sanitiEr I use in it

[Starman]

Don't know , I do not  have it yet, that's why I asked for comments by someone who had a similar setup