Chlorine - before or after

[K9JCA]

I found this topic via search but the posts are older so decided to start again (so sorry).  New tub owner.  Just wife and I use but we use virtually every day.  Alkalinity and Ph are holding just fine.  Shock and Silk Balance (yes, I know, expensive but we like it) once a week.  Water is clear and feels fine.  Testing via drop tester (Taylor).  I've been adding about 1 tablespoon of chlorine before each use and running (Hot Springs) 10min cleaning cycle before using (testing then shows bringing up from almost zero to correct level).  My dilemma is this; everything I've read has indicated that I should be adding after, not before using.  Problem is, 99% of the time we soak late at night, right before going to bed and if I understand correctly, the tub needs to stay open in order for the gases from the chlorine to "escape" so that it doesn't hurt the cover.  I'm ready for bed when we are done and don't want to hang around waiting for this to happen.  So, what say you?

[Tman122]

I say if the chlorine doesn't bother you your doing it right. But adding after is always better to kill the stuff you just introduced.

[kporter]

I like the idea of adding chlorine after usage. It is very important that you are adding enough chlorine to treat the water after use though. I have had customers who used this method and ended up with bacteria rashes because they did not add enough after having more people then normal into the hot tub then entered the hot tub a day later with water that was not safe for bathing.

Best practice is to let the gases burn off for 10-20 minutes though.

Porter

[JaxSAH]

"Best practice is to let the gases burn off for 10-20 minutes though. "

Exactly what does this mean?  Am I to leave cover off of the hot tub 10-20 minutes after I get out and put in the chlorine? 

I own a Hot Springs, and I have always added a teaspoon of chlorine after I get out, hit the "Clean" button, close the lid and go back inside. 

Have I been doing it incorrectly all these years?

[mpkelley20]

To add to the above, how does the chlorine gas get released if you are using a spa frog cartridge or floater or some other kind of mechanism to deliver the chlorine? 

[Beck0101]

I'm learning this is one of the primary pro/con components of the bromine vs chlorine decision (at least based on what I see).  I too am learning what it means to leave the cover off for 30 minutes after I get out late in the evening.  Depending on the "purpose of the soak" and with whom I was soaking these 30 minutes are likely better spent doing far better things than waiting on the chlorine to burn off. 

I'd also be interested to try to estimate the difference in energy consumption between bromine and chlorine.  If every chlorine user has their tubs open (let's assume northern climates only) and jets on for an extra 90-120 minutes per week to allow for chlorine burn-off post-treatment, everything else equal, how much additional monthly cost is associated with using chlorine vs bromine?  Just curious.  The cost is not a component of my review.  It's only the convenience at this point.

From my viewpoint bromine looks highly appealing from a "get out, cover up, carryon" standpoint.  I'll continue with chlorine at least until I run out of the freebie Silk Balance.  I'm 63% sure I'm going to convert to bromine when the time comes though.  It's already cold enough at night that I really don't want to go back out there after I've exited the tub.  First world problems to be sure...

[The Wizard of Spas]

The burn-off tends to help the cover.  Allowing for the standard di-chlor to burn off will save the underside of the cover from eventually wearing out and taking on moisture.  The chemical reaction that happens when you add sanitizers will need to allow for airing-out (spa shock- potassium peroxymonopersulfate- does still need to be aerated and that is used in bromine and nature 2/spa frog tubs, but not as much and it isn't as harsh as chlorine).

The cover only needs to be open for about 15 minutes and granulated dichlor will have dissolved and burned off by then.  It would only be an ongoing problem if you were using tablets, which is a big no-no.

You can further reduce the time needed to keep the cover open by pre-dissolving your sanitizer in a bucket of your already heated spa water.  That will make life easier if you are not wanting to wait.

I sell bromine, chlorine, nature 2 and @ease.  I tell customers that whenever they are adding any granulated sanitizers, if you are looking to get the most out of your cover long-term, to keep the cover off for a spell afterwards.  I also say that its pointless if you are not also protecting the outside part of it with 303 Protectant, as both sides of the cover are susceptible to damage.  But this is all next-level stuff.  I have customers who do nothing of the sort and get 5 years or so out of a cover.  So its really up to you how you want to proceed.

mpkelly20-  @ease is a dichlor, but it is a totally different chemical compound than your standard granulated dichlor products (they actually have a patent on it).  Furthermore:  The amount of active chlorine runs around 0.5ppm.  This is very low and will not cause you to have to keep the cover open.  Only when you add "jump start" will you need to keep the cover open.

I hope this helps.  Good luck moving forward.

[Tman122]

Most only burn off for 5 minutes or so, some none at all. Will it effect your cover? Of course. But saying your cover lasted for 5 years (60 months) or 58 months. Or even a year off your cover life. May not matter to you.

Or some where in between.

Best practice is to burn off for 10-15 minutes. When the fumes are the most corrosive. All fumes will lower your covers life expectancy.

A bromine floater tends to create fumes always and can effect cover life. Not running the jets on high for 10 minutes after your chlorine addition will do the same thing.